Help Identifying My Lift (Used Jeep Rubicon)

[Hirschmann]

Hello Everyone,


I have a Jeep I bought used. I am going to be doing Teraflex HD Balljoints and the Teraflex Big brake kit in 3 weekends from now. I started to learn more about my jeep and how all this works. If I am to correct some issues I need to know where I sit. And I just cannot tell with confidence how much lift, and the parts it has on it. Can you help me?


Being a Rubicon It looks like stock trackbar, draglink, tie-rod. So I am looking into those parts to improve steering/tracking and frankly not blowing up my steering with the lighter trails I'm doing (think camping with light crawling). But these parts depend on my lift height and if I wanna do a flip kit or not.

I see the Fox 2.0 shocks but these springs almost look stock to me. Attached are a number of photos to help.

Things already on the list to complete in 2024:

-Welded C gusset Brackets
-Tie-road, trackbar, draglink
-chromoly shafter front and rear
-maybe gears but I've driven the jeep so long on the 4.10s I works - even if its not the best.
-Teraflex HD balljoints
-Tereflex big break kit
- Synergy Front Track Bar and Sector Shaft Brace
-New Diff fluids and seals

 

[WJCO]

Springs are not OEM. Taller and sway bar links are longer. Plus track bar bracket in rear. Your Jeep is lifted.

Front track bar and control arms are adjustable, not OEM. Looks like Core4x4 to me.

Also, why do all these mods if you're just doing light trails?

 

[Hirschmann]

I bought the jeep with all of this on it, and I mainly want the jeep to be properly outfitted. Not crazy built but to a point where its done correctly. The ball joints are definitely worn and its causing light steering wheel shimmy at 35-45MPH? and the ball joint tests i've seen online (and completed) show that I need them. The brakes are fairly weak and although I've just learned to drive conservatively.... I feel the need to emphasize how "you need to brake early" if a GF or family member drives the jeep. If I can get 20% better braking its worth the money, thats safety.

I know front solid axels will wonder some and hunt the road but the steer feels pretty lose. So with 80K miles its probably the bushings and ends of most of the front end. I've hopped under the jeep and don't see a much play outside of what I've seen as normal. I do some more tests if you have suggestions.

So Ball joints and Front steering components will help with driving on and off road. As well as tire wear and the steering wheel shimmy. Its not death wobble. Its just in the 35-45 MPH and goes away. Ball joints are definitely shot.

Forums have led me to believe my shafts will go at any time on 37s, so when I'm off road I'm super babying the throttle. it would such to be Colorado and get stranded by a light dry river bed with some rocks because the rear shaft broke.

Gears - honestly probably wont do them. I only know the power of the 4.10s and its fine. I know its not the best, but it doesn't bother me that much. If I want power Ill trade my mother for her 911 for a day lol

Sector shaft brace seems like a pretty cheap part to get more control in the steering and beef it up, again to prevent breaking the steering components.

Diff fluids just need to do them, idk when they were last done.

 

[Hirschmann]

What Size do you think this lift is? Its on 37s and if I have two grown men in the back seat, I get some rubbing when going over bumps on the free way. I think I need some more clearance as well. I was "considering" .75 inch pucks all around on the jeep to offset any sag from the lift being on the jeep for 5-6 years and for a hair of extra room.

 

[jeeeep]

Hello Everyone,


I have a Jeep I bought used. I am going to be doing Teraflex HD Balljoints and the Teraflex Big brake kit in 3 weekends from now. I started to learn more about my jeep and how all this works. If I am to correct some issues I need to know where I sit. And I just cannot tell with confidence how much lift, and the parts it has on it. Can you help me?


Being a Rubicon It looks like stock trackbar, draglink, tie-rod. So I am looking into those parts to improve steering/tracking and frankly not blowing up my steering with the lighter trails I'm doing (think camping with light crawling). But these parts depend on my lift height and if I wanna do a flip kit or not.

I see the Fox 2.0 shocks but these springs almost look stock to me. Attached are a number of photos to help.

Things already on the list to complete in 2024:

-Welded C gusset Brackets
-Tie-road, trackbar, draglink
-chromoly shafter front and rear
-maybe gears but I've driven the jeep so long on the 4.10s I works - even if its not the best.
-Teraflex HD balljoints
-Tereflex big break kit
- Synergy Front Track Bar and Sector Shaft Brace
-New Diff fluids and seals

What year is the Jeep?

Welding the C gussets is a good idea.

I'd recommend Synergy Mfg components for the Tie-rod, Track bar and drag link

with 37's 4.88 gearing would bring you closer to stock and you'll notice the improvement

I'd skip on the Teraflex HD ball joints and go with Synergy HD ball joints

I'd skip the TF big brake kit, it's only for the fronts. Also, depending on what brake master cylinder is on your Jeep, you may open up to other issues. Power Stop makes a big brake kit that's similar to the Dynatrac ProGrip that I have installed on my 2010 JKU. 37's, bead locks, heavy Jeep.
The cover all 4 brakes, you'll have flatter, even braking without having to change out the calipers.

I'd recommend all fluid changes not just the diffs', as you mentioned, you don't know when they were all changed.

I'd check the shocks to see if they are worn out, 2 adults in the rear shouldn't lower it that much.

I noticed air bag type inserts in the rear coil image, also looks like the name stamp on the coil is still legible, clean it off and see what's stamped on the coil.




I'd recommend getting rid of the fox stabilizer and going back to stock.

 

[Hirschmann]

Its a 2015 year model. Thanks for the advice on the Synergy products. Thanks for the advice on the brake kit. All the review have seems good and it seems like a really simple option while I'm doing the ball joints. Products have not been bought yet, so I can change over

The tie rod, drag link, will probably be down the road this year once I know if I need a flip kit. If I have a adjustable track bar thats $$$ i dont need to spend it seems.

 

[jeeeep]

Its a 2015 year model. Thanks for the advice on the Synergy products. Thanks for the advice on the brake kit. All the review have seems good and it seems like a really simple option while I'm doing the ball joints. Products have not been bought yet, so I can change over

The tie rod, drag link, will probably be down the road this year once I know if I need a flip kit. If I have a adjustable track bar thats $$$ i dont need to spend it seems.

curious to know what the rear coils have stamped on them, are those air bags that are in the coils?

 

[Hirschmann]

Nice Find man i didnt see that when I got under the jeep earlier, thanks!

It appears to say Rock Krawler RK 03101. which lends me to suggest its "
2015 Jeep Wrangler (JK) Rock Krawler 3.5" Triple Rate Rear Coil Springs - RK03101"

As for the red bags, dude your guess is gett than mine, IDK never seen a jeep with them like that. I do not see any pneumatic lines coming from them and I do not have any switches or Air compressor under hood for them.

 

[Ddays]

Nice Find man i didnt see that when I got under the jeep earlier, thanks!

It appears to say Rock Krawler RK 03101. which lends me to suggest its "
2015 Jeep Wrangler (JK) Rock Krawler 3.5" Triple Rate Rear Coil Springs - RK03101"

As for the red bags, dude your guess is gett than mine, IDK never seen a jeep with them like that. I do not see any pneumatic lines coming from them and I do not have any switches or Air compressor under hood for them.

Correct - those are RK joints. I had a kit on mine awhile ago. Also can tell by the bowing of the rear springs and the kink in the control arms.

Those red bags are Airlift bags - they assist when you've got a heavy cargo load

Air Lift 1000 Air Bag Kits for SUVs & Vans | Air Lift Company

Air Lift 1000 air suspension kits for towing and hauling provide an adjustable air ride for coil spring vehicles like SUVs, Vans and RVs.

www.airliftcompany.com

 

[Hirschmann]

went back out and yeah there are penumatic lines coming from the bottom of the bags. Driver side runs over top of the diff, and to the passenger side, but the line runs forward and disappears behind the wheel well liner. I need to trace where they end so I can see if they work. Are they something I should keep or take out? The rear coils look quite compressed, is that normal?

 

[Ddays]

went back out and yeah there are penumatic lines coming from the bottom of the bags. Driver side runs over top of the diff, and to the passenger side, but the line runs forward and disappears behind the wheel well liner. I need to trace where they end so I can see if they work. Are they something I should keep or take out? The rear coils look quite compressed, is that normal?

They really won't hurt anything if you leave them in there. Might come in handy if you have a heavy load

 

[jeeeep]

Nice Find man i didnt see that when I got under the jeep earlier, thanks!

It appears to say Rock Krawler RK 03101. which lends me to suggest its "
2015 Jeep Wrangler (JK) Rock Krawler 3.5" Triple Rate Rear Coil Springs - RK03101"

As for the red bags, dude your guess is gett than mine, IDK never seen a jeep with them like that. I do not see any pneumatic lines coming from them and I do not have any switches or Air compressor under hood for them.

Your 2015 is a JKU, those coils only provide 2.5" lift on a JKU, 3.5" lift is for the 2dr.

you mentioned how you get rubbing when going over bumps with 2 adult passengers?
2.5" progressive coils might explain that, but it looks like there's plenty of clearance between the fender and tire; might also be the reason for the air bags and possible the coils are shot from having too much weight on them before you bought it.

If you budget has room, I'd look at 3.5" coils (non-progressive) and shocks and shocks to match the taller coils.

 

[Hirschmann]

Your 2015 is a JKU, those coils only provide 2.5" lift on a JKU, 3.5" lift is for the 2dr.

you mentioned how you get rubbing when going over bumps with 2 adult passengers?
2.5" progressive coils might explain that, but it looks like there's plenty of clearance between the fender and tire; might also be the reason for the air bags and possible the coils are shot from having too much weight on them before you bought it.

If you budget has room, I'd look at 3.5" coils (non-progressive) and shocks and shocks to match the taller coils.

Yes, if I have 2 adults in the back seat and go over a bump with sufficient speed, its a short burst of tire rub when hitting bottom of the travel of that bump. Confident that the noise is tire tread rubbing. Honestly I think its the diameter horizontally rubbing in the fender, directly in front of the rear tire when suspension compressed. Right there the fender meets the Rubicon rock rail. The flat fenders have some plastic there, but no evidence of rubbing. It has only happened 3 or 4 times ever - but definitely made me feel like with full flex I'd be rubbing bad. The last year or so its been normal camping two track roads and light trails where the flex isn't to intense (like to the point where I do not disconnect sway bar), and work out in oil fields where I'm in Permian basin sand, but no massive flex. The flat flares give a false sense of clearance IMO. (they are the only change I've made.)

This makes lift height of 2.5 instead of 3 makes total sense to me. I bet they towed with it, and was 2.5 to start and may even have sagged/shot the shocks. Not to mention the Jeep didn't have the 5th tire mounted and now it does (smitbilt XRC door hinge mount thing)

Next question - So with the longer (static) sway bar links in the front. The Front adj trackbar, the rear track bar mount. I could essentially go for 3.5" coils non-progressive and then some new shocks and the kit would be okay? More specifically, the control arms and track bar being adjustable allows me to put on simple coils and shocks and still be in good position? or are we thinking addition lift components if I go 3.5? Probably new driveshafts eh?

It rained here in Dallas this afternoon so I didn't get under the jeep in the wet garage but I did find what I think its the airbag manifold. Mounted under the jeep beneath the drive side rear seat. Looks like the manifolds on the airlift website. I see there is an app if this device is a 2nd gen, so I am going to see if I can get the bags air' d up. See if the system works. Maybe its run via a external compressor and simply has a nipple to quick connect to. This is to be seen. I never received a controller from the dealer I bought it from. They never mentioned it. I know its dumb, but I asked and they said that the bags were simply a sleeve to keep debris out. I took it at face value.


But I am going to check out the coils and shocks as an option. with 3.5" this is squarely put me in a spot where I go flip kit on the drag link right? Is there a easy way to see if the shocks are shot?

So starting to revise my project list:

Figure out airbag system, if works cool, if it doesn't - remove it when I do new coils
3.5" coils all around
3.5" compatible shocks
Draglink flip kit and HD tie rod (use current adj track bar)
Synergy Balljoints
Maybe wait on brakes if I need to up suspension correction parts by $1500 bucks. I've driven the jeep with the brakes like this since day 1 so Its not a major concern to me, honestly. But I got a end of year bonus so I was thinking it was a smart way to go. 25% of it to savings, 25% of it to investment account. Then some jeep parts.

 

[jeeeep]

Yes, if I have 2 adults in the back seat and go over a bump with sufficient speed, its a short burst of tire rub when hitting bottom of the travel of that bump. Confident that the noise is tire tread rubbing. Honestly I think its the diameter horizontally rubbing in the fender, directly in front of the rear tire when suspension compressed. Right there the fender meets the Rubicon rock rail. The flat fenders have some plastic there, but no evidence of rubbing. It has only happened 3 or 4 times ever - but definitely made me feel like with full flex I'd be rubbing bad. The last year or so its been normal camping two track roads and light trails where the flex isn't to intense (like to the point where I do not disconnect sway bar), and work out in oil fields where I'm in Permian basin sand, but no massive flex. The flat flares give a false sense of clearance IMO. (they are the only change I've made.)

This makes lift height of 2.5 instead of 3 makes total sense to me. I bet they towed with it, and was 2.5 to start and may even have sagged/shot the shocks. Not to mention the Jeep didn't have the 5th tire mounted and now it does (smitbilt XRC door hinge mount thing)

Next question - So with the longer (static) sway bar links in the front. The Front adj trackbar, the rear track bar mount. I could essentially go for 3.5" coils non-progressive and then some new shocks and the kit would be okay? More specifically, the control arms and track bar being adjustable allows me to put on simple coils and shocks and still be in good position? or are we thinking addition lift components if I go 3.5? Probably new driveshafts eh?

It rained here in Dallas this afternoon so I didn't get under the jeep in the wet garage but I did find what I think its the airbag manifold. Mounted under the jeep beneath the drive side rear seat. Looks like the manifolds on the airlift website. I see there is an app if this device is a 2nd gen, so I am going to see if I can get the bags air' d up. See if the system works. Maybe its run via a external compressor and simply has a nipple to quick connect to. This is to be seen. I never received a controller from the dealer I bought it from. They never mentioned it. I know its dumb, but I asked and they said that the bags were simply a sleeve to keep debris out. I took it at face value.


But I am going to check out the coils and shocks as an option. with 3.5" this is squarely put me in a spot where I go flip kit on the drag link right? Is there a easy way to see if the shocks are shot?

So starting to revise my project list:

Figure out airbag system, if works cool, if it doesn't - remove it when I do new coils
3.5" coils all around
3.5" compatible shocks
Draglink flip kit and HD tie rod (use current adj track bar)
Synergy Balljoints
Maybe wait on brakes if I need to up suspension correction parts by $1500 bucks. I've driven the jeep with the brakes like this since day 1 so Its not a major concern to me, honestly. But I got a end of year bonus so I was thinking it was a smart way to go. 25% of it to savings, 25% of it to investment account. Then some jeep parts.

with 3.5" lift, a drag link flip = no bump steer. you can do without it but you never get used to the bump steer surprise.

For brakes, I started using Wagner OEx brake pads and they made a difference, still use them with the Dynatrac ProGrip.

Front driveshaft for 3.5" lift, the rear will last a bit longer but eventually it will need to be replaced.

bounce on each corner and see how easily the shocks compress/rebound (shouldn't bounce more than once and not easily), you can also pull one off, compress it and see how it rebounds.

 

[Hirschmann]

Now that I am starting to grasp the situation this jeep is in. I am trying to focus on what is the best way to get the jeep sorted out while not completlely rebuilding it. It has been driven in its current state for a few years and its been "fine". But I do want it "right" as much as possbile.

With my adjustable control arms, front track bar, and rear track bar relocation mount. As well has having 3.5inch in springs (giving 2.5+ on the JKU). Would it be a terrible Idea to simply toss in 1inch spacers and adjust the control arms and trackbar to meet this new height standard?

The main line of thinking is this:

1. I do not wheel crazy hard, so maximum flex is not my main priority. The existing coils already provide some additional flex, along with the longer sway bar links.
2. I just want a tad more clearance to avoid rubbing.
3. This opens up $500-600 bucks to apply to a Front Drive shaft.


Ending parts would be:
HD Tie rod and Drag link (flip kit) -- tera or synergy -- $950
synergy ball joints -- $300
weldable C gussets -- $80
Tom Woods Front Drive shaft 1350 -- $800
1 inch spacers -- $150

Total: $2,280

Call it 3K with rear shaft after a period of time.

While $2280 shouldn't be a problem. I know I will end up north of that when its all said and done and I if coils and shocks add another $1200 for not much of a difference for my use case. If it isn't going to just obliterate ride quality or cause a major other problem, I can fine with just a spacer.

 

[jeeeep]

Now that I am starting to grasp the situation this jeep is in. I am trying to focus on what is the best way to get the jeep sorted out while not completlely rebuilding it. It has been driven in its current state for a few years and its been "fine". But I do want it "right" as much as possbile.

With my adjustable control arms, front track bar, and rear track bar relocation mount. As well has having 3.5inch in springs (giving 2.5+ on the JKU). Would it be a terrible Idea to simply toss in 1inch spacers and adjust the control arms and trackbar to meet this new height standard?

The main line of thinking is this:

1. I do not wheel crazy hard, so maximum flex is not my main priority. The existing coils already provide some additional flex, along with the longer sway bar links.
2. I just want a tad more clearance to avoid rubbing.
3. This opens up $500-600 bucks to apply to a Front Drive shaft.


Ending parts would be:
HD Tie rod and Drag link (flip kit) -- tera or synergy -- $950
synergy ball joints -- $300
weldable C gussets -- $80
Tom Woods Front Drive shaft 1350 -- $800
1 inch spacers -- $150

Total: $2,280

Call it 3K with rear shaft after a period of time.

While $2280 shouldn't be a problem. I know I will end up north of that when its all said and done and I if coils and shocks add another $1200 for not much of a difference for my use case. If it isn't going to just obliterate ride quality or cause a major other problem, I can fine with just a spacer.

If it were me,

ball joints a must if they're shot

shocks, if the jeep hits bottom with a couple of adults, I'd check the shocks. Shocks, depending on how much use will last about 50,000 miles,

gussets

look at Spicer front 1310 driveshaft, last I priced it out it was about $300 less than Woods/Adams and with spicer ujoints.

Another thought, did you look at the inner part of the tire to make sure the rear sway bar isn't rubbing on something? I can see weight allowing the suspension to hit the bump stops but rubbing on something would be the inner fender, swaybar or something else.

 

[Hirschmann]

If it were me,

ball joints a must if they're shot

shocks, if the jeep hits bottom with a couple of adults, I'd check the shocks. Shocks, depending on how much use will last about 50,000 miles,

gussets

look at Spicer front 1310 driveshaft, last I priced it out it was about $300 less than Woods/Adams and with spicer ujoints.

Another thought, did you look at the inner part of the tire to make sure the rear sway bar isn't rubbing on something? I can see weight allowing the suspension to hit the bump stops but rubbing on something would be the inner fender, swaybar or something else.

Okay, So I spent some time looking things over. While some buddies believe I an rubbing on the control arms. I don't think I am. I believe the bushwhacker flat fenders are the contact point. It is the front of the rear tire at the 3 o clock mark. I have adj lower rear control arms but non-adjustable upper rear control arms. maybe the rear sway bar? Ill have to look tomorrow.

Here I have a floor jack pushing rear passenger side up, only about 4 or so inches off ground, definitely not maxed out. but you can see the room upto the bump stop and I am no where near the upper or lower control arms. But I am quite close to the front of the Wheel well. I have wheels with 4.5 BS according to the old manufacturers wheels specs. "Dirty Life Roadkills"

Can I use adj rear control arms to move the rear axel back say 1/2 inch and then I can look into cutting some of this damn plastic away. I need to ensure the structure of the plastic isnt to compromised and janky. But obviously I want to hit bumpstop before rubbing.

 

[Hirschmann]

By the way, I believe this is the air compressor for the air bags, or am I off base here, idk what this is?

 

[Cousin Clyde]

Evap can

 

[Hirschmann]

Can you tell me what these wires are? I am assuming fog light connectors for when the stock bumper was on? I am going to have to move this vacuum pump to drop a winch in here. Im guessing there is a easy relocation kit?