Jumped to 35s finally

Mitrig

Mitrig

New member
Thanks guys! I was worried I needed to shell out more money on a stabilizer and links right away
 
B

BEAST33

New member
Canvas JK said:
Congrats on getting bigger tires. So let's start the list.

Since you are going above 3 inches the couple of things will be a front drive shaft and drag link flip. There are several out there but I believe the EVO Drag Link Flip does not require welding. As for the drive shaft look at a 1310 0r 1350 depending on whet your future build plans are. While you have the springs off this would be a great time to gusset the inner c's for added strength. As for sleeving the front axle, you can but I would save for upgrading to a PR44 or PR60.

On the rear axle I would look at getting the EVO Rear track bar relocation bracket. I have seen the Pro-Comp and Rancho brackets and to a big fan. The EVO bracket is beefy.

Another option is to get longer brake lines. I chose to get the Crown Performance 4-6 braided lines. To me it was worth the extra $150 to know I will not have to change them when I finally upgrade to coilovers.

What wheels are you using? Check the back spacing. You will need a minimum of 4.5 inches to keep the tires from rubbing. If you do not have the required backspacing you can always use spacers. I have 1.5 in spyder track spacers and love how it made Canvas' stance a little wider.

R/
Will
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Will,

Newb question for you - just curious why save up for a PR44 when sleeving would be a lot cheaper and still add strength? For guys like me on a budget it would take me forever to save up for a PR44 or 60. I think I would just go with the EVO MFG 44 Mag sleeves and then truss and gusset, knuckles, HD ball joints etc.

Whatcha think?

sorry to hi-jack this thread..
 
OverlanderJK

OverlanderJK

Resident Smartass
BEAST33 said:
Will,

Newb question for you - just curious why save up for a PR44 when sleeving would be a lot cheaper and still add strength? For guys like me on a budget it would take me forever to save up for a PR44 or 60. I think I would just go with the EVO MFG 44 Mag sleeves and then truss and gusset, knuckles, HD ball joints etc.

Whatcha think?

sorry to hi-jack this thread..
Click to expand...

Do more research.

Sleeves won't add strength where it needs to be added. You factory housing will still bend if you are hard enough on your rig.

Truss, lol.

Knuckles, why? The factory knuckles are plenty strong.

HD balljoints, sure that's a good idea but it add strength to the housing.
 
Tanner505

Tanner505

New member
OverlanderJK said:
Do more research.

Sleeves won't add strength where it needs to be added. You factory housing will still bend if you are hard enough on your rig.

Truss, lol.

Knuckles, why? The factory knuckles are plenty strong.

HD balljoints, sure that's a good idea but it add strength to the housing.
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Like what overland said, a pr44 is the best bet don't waste money trying to beef up a weak axle, by the time you do all that stuff and pay for labor to install it all you've already spent as much as a pr44, do c guessets until you can do a pr44
 
Mitrig

Mitrig

New member
Tanner505 said:
Like what overland said, a pr44 is the best bet don't waste money trying to beef up a weak axle, by the time you do all that stuff and pay for labor to install it all you've already spent as much as a pr44, do c guessets until you can do a pr44
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Yea I will do some more research into that. I do everything myself, so if it's something I can do in the shop or garage I'll do it. I'd just rather not have to drop the axel to do things to it. If I was going drop it I'd do a full swap one time.
 
B

BEAST33

New member
OverlanderJK said:
Do more research.

Sleeves won't add strength where it needs to be added. You factory housing will still bend if you are hard enough on your rig.

Truss, lol.

Knuckles, why? The factory knuckles are plenty strong.

HD balljoints, sure that's a good idea but it add strength to the housing.
Click to expand...


Well that's why I am here...to ask questions and do research. I am being told differently by other people that trussing the axle is a good thing and then I come here and get a totally different opinion...which I do appreciate because I want to know the "why" behind every upgrade I make.

Thanks for the response!
 
Mitrig

Mitrig

New member
I totally agree, we are hear to learn what works. I'm finalizing my engineering degree, so designs, and failure prevention is something that always intrigued me. Only thing is in reality your front end is only as strong as your weakest component. I get it that some things work and some don't help as much, it's all a compromise. I get that a pr44 work well and it strong but personally I'd need to see raw data on how the Dana 44 would fracture. Idk I'm weird in that sense, I've seen 44s break, 30s each in a different way. I am going to wheel my 44s till I can afford a swap. Until then I may do soemthing minor to reinforce them but that's about it
 
Mitrig

Mitrig

New member
CedarRaider said:
Anything will break given enough force. I've seen. Dana 60 on a blazer break in half.
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There are so many variables to it all. I don't like how people generalize certain things as being a waste. Depends on the application, how hard you are on it and they type
Of strains and stresses being applied
Due to the form of wheeling
 
Tachyon

Tachyon

New member
Great looking Jeep. I'll add to the drag link flip suggestion, as I just installed the EVO 3" enforcer lift and the steering is terrible without it (wanders, weaves, etc...). I may be overly critical... I have the parts on order for a drag link flip, but I chose Currie over EVO. Not sure why I chose that, must have been the shop's influence, as they had a full custom TJ frame with all Currie parts and they looked bulletproof.

If I had it to do over, I'd buy the same lift with the Evo flip (way cheaper), and I'd have left the stock steering stabilizer on. Instead of buying aftermarket.

For the record, I put on the Synergy ball joints. No feedback on them yet, they seem stiff, and they don't clunk!
 
Mitrig

Mitrig

New member
Tachyon said:
Great looking Jeep. I'll add to the drag link flip suggestion, as I just installed the EVO 3" enforcer lift and the steering is terrible without it (wanders, weaves, etc...). I may be overly critical... I have the parts on order for a drag link flip, but I chose Currie over EVO. Not sure why I chose that, must have been the shop's influence, as they had a full custom TJ frame with all Currie parts and they looked bulletproof.

If I had it to do over, I'd buy the same lift with the Evo flip (way cheaper), and I'd have left the stock steering stabilizer on. Instead of buying aftermarket.

For the record, I put on the Synergy ball joints. No feedback on them yet, they seem stiff, and they don't clunk!
Click to expand...

I'm looking into everything that was suggested...ill do more research and try to figure out everything. thanks for the suggestion
 
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