KingCopperhead's Build Thread

[KingCopperhead]

Starting to plan the next step. Which will be a continuation of making my drive train stronger.

I'd like opinions:
Option 1. Chromoly front axle shafts with full circle clips.
Option 2. Drive shafts.

Option 1. Seems to make the most sense to me, since by upgrading I'll now have a set of trail spares with the stockers that I take off.


Option 2 could be a rabbit hole of spending that I don't want to go down just this moment.

The lift that I have (3") included fixed extended control arms (front lowers, and both upper and lower rears.) What I'm wondering is: can I get by without new control arms? Or would I be in danger of trashing my new shafts? (currently 10k on my stock shafts, no boot tears, no noises, knock on wood)

Option D lol. Do the axle shafts now, adjustable arms in a few months, and drive shafts a few months after that.


Really trying to keep my spending under control this year since I overdid it big time last year.

TLDR: for a 2014 2 door manual on 3" of lift with a dana 44 running 35s, which is a more important upgrade for durability sake? Axle shafts, or drive shafts.

 

[JK_Dave]

Starting to plan the next step. Which will be a continuation of making my drive train stronger.

I'd like opinions:
Option 1. Chromoly front axle shafts with full circle clips.
Option 2. Drive shafts.

Option 1. Seems to make the most sense to me, since by upgrading I'll now have a set of trail spares with the stockers that I take off.


Option 2 could be a rabbit hole of spending that I don't want to go down just this moment.

The lift that I have (3") included fixed extended control arms (front lowers, and both upper and lower rears.) What I'm wondering is: can I get by without new control arms? Or would I be in danger of trashing my new shafts? (currently 10k on my stock shafts, no boot tears, no noises, knock on wood)

Option D lol. Do the axle shafts now, adjustable arms in a few months, and drive shafts a few months after that.


Really trying to keep my spending under control this year since I overdid it big time last year.

TLDR: for a 2014 2 door manual on 3" of lift with a dana 44 running 35s, which is a more important upgrade for durability sake? Axle shafts, or drive shafts.

This is just my opinion, but since your control arms are matched to the rest of your setup, I wouldn't worry about them. I'd probably start with a rear driveshaft because if that breaks on the trail, you're kind of f*cked. At least if the front breaks, you can still limp out in rear wheel drive with help from the winch. Then, as long as you're sticking with the 35's, I'd probably do the front shaft after that. Axle shafts last.

 

[OverlanderJK]

This is just my opinion, but since your control arms are matched to the rest of your setup, I wouldn't worry about them. I'd probably start with a rear driveshaft because if that breaks on the trail, you're kind of f*cked. At least if the front breaks, you can still limp out in rear wheel drive with help from the winch. Then, as long as you're sticking with the 35's, I'd probably do the front shaft after that. Axle shafts last.

You can drive with just a front shaft. Four high and you're good to go. I've done it before after I broke my rear shaft.

 

[bkac]

Chances are with 35s the axle shafts will hold for a bit along with the DS's. I'd say a new front DS first to replace the factory boot.

The driveshafts go the same way, if you break the front you can wheel out on rear and if you break the rear you can wheel out on the front shaft.

 

[KingCopperhead]

Thanks for the input guys. Going to shop around a little and see what I can come up with.

Reassuring to know that the factory axle shafts aren't such a weak point for the setup that I'm running.

I get a little paranoid with breaks since I'm typically wheeling about 4-5 hours from home.

 

[KingCopperhead]

After talking to a few friends and getting a little helpful advice from Eddie, I ordered a new front drive shaft today.

1310 with solid spicer joints from James at Adam's off road. Very cool guy to work with. Discussed my future upgrade path as well as my intended use. Need to get some measurements out to him before he builds it but should have it on before my next trip to rausch in March.

Going to also remove my exhaust spacers, and maybe the front limit straps that the mopar lift included to prevent drive shaft contact with the exhaust pipe. This should get me some more front articulation hopefully. Also will be trimming the fender flares and painting over all the rust that I picked up over the winter once this Damn winter storm melts in NY.

 

[boardsurfer]

I'm looking forward to the results of the new front drive shaft and removing the limiting straps. I also run a sport with the same lift and 35s so I have been following your build rather closely. :thumb:

 

[KingCopperhead]

I'm looking forward to the results of the new front drive shaft and removing the limiting straps. I also run a sport with the same lift and 35s so I have been following your build rather closely. :thumb:

Nice man! I think that makes like... 3 of us on the forums running this lift. I'll definitely keep you posted. Probably won't have the spacers and straps off until warmer weather comes to NY. I might even just throw longer limit straps on if I can find some inexpensive ones since the holes are drilled.

How do you like running the mopar lift? Aside from the non adjustable arms (and what I paid for it) I'm actually pretty happy with it.

 

[boardsurfer]

I'm quite happy with the road manners. At 28psi in the tires, I think it handles really well. I would even say it's smoother than my girlfriends stock 4 door. It does have a slight shimmy when I hit a bump just right though. I'm still trying to figure out how to rectify that. I bought the jeep with the lift on it and it had 2900 miles so don't think anything is worn out, like bushings or ball joints. Maybe the caster isn't right. But you would think with fixed arms, the geometry would be accounted for in the length. I haven't had a chance to really flex it out yet on a trail - still a lot of snow out there.

 

[KingCopperhead]

I'm quite happy with the road manners. At 28psi in the tires, I think it handles really well. I would even say it's smoother than my girlfriends stock 4 door. It does have a slight shimmy when I hit a bump just right though. I'm still trying to figure out how to rectify that. I bought the jeep with the lift on it and it had 2900 miles so don't think anything is worn out, like bushings or ball joints. Maybe the caster isn't right. But you would think with fixed arms, the geometry would be accounted for in the length. I haven't had a chance to really flex it out yet on a trail - still a lot of snow out there.

Yeah man tell me about the snow! I feel like I'm the one in the rocky mountains right now. As for the shimmy: before you go to the dealership, take a few minutes and check over all the bolts in the suspension. I bought my jeep with the lift installed as well. They left a LOT of loose bolts under the jeep. I had a loose shock bolt (actually came all the way out.) the limit strap bolts were so loose I could undo them with my hands.

It's worth a shot anyway.


Jeep is as smooth as my Acadia on the road, as for off road... Plenty of flex. Hoping for a little more once I can get past the limit straps. Did you add quick disconnects on the front sway bar? That was one thing that shocked the hell out of me. $2k lift and no quick disconnects.

Here's a few flex shots to tide you over till you can get out and play

 

[boardsurfer]

No disconnects! What the hell, right!? I ordered some JKS disconnects then about an hour later came across a Rubicon take-off so I snatched that up and returned the JKS's. Picked up an Evo Nolimits to go with it. I could have it on already, but I decided to remove some of the rust (came off an 08). Then the snow came and it's still in the garage with primer waiting for paint. The weather has been so fickle here in Denver. 70 degrees last weekend, and we're looking at about 10" of snow today.

 

[KingCopperhead]

No disconnects! What the hell, right!? I ordered some JKS disconnects then about an hour later came across a Rubicon take-off so I snatched that up and returned the JKS's. Picked up an Evo Nolimits to go with it. I could have it on already, but I decided to remove some of the rust (came off an 08). Then the snow came and it's still in the garage with primer waiting for paint. The weather has been so fickle here in Denver. 70 degrees last weekend, and we're looking at about 10" of snow today.

We are on our umpteenth day of snow and sub zero weather lol. Wouldn't mind if I could get a day off of work to go wheeling, but gotta pay the bills.


The rubi disconnect with no limits is a sweet setup. Haven't seen it in person but definitely beats dicking around with sway bar links at the end of the day. Love my jks discos but getting them back on is a pita sometimes.

I'm not even looking forward to cleaning up the rust in the spring. Sliders, axles, bumper are getting a few spots. Hate the salt on the roads. They use dirt on salt in CO?

 

[boardsurfer]

Love my jks discos but getting them back on is a pita sometimes.

I struggled on this with my LJ which is why I jumped on the rubi take-off. You can lock it back up from any angle and when it finds level, it just clicks into place. Pretty nice.

Denver uses Magnesium Chloride on the roads which I'm pretty sure contains salt. All I know is it turns everything brown and when the sun comes back out, the roads are a total mess.

 

[KingCopperhead]

I struggled on this with my LJ which is why I jumped on the rubi take-off. You can lock it back up from any angle and when it finds level, it just clicks into place. Pretty nice.

Denver uses Magnesium Chloride on the roads which I'm pretty sure contains salt. All I know is it turns everything brown and when the sun comes back out, the roads are a total mess.

Gonna have to consider this for an upgrade at some point. After the axle shafts, rear drive shaft, tire carrier, 37s.... LOL never ends my friend.


They use a mix of salt and beet juice in NY. Makes the roads really nice to drive on, but your car will literally disintegrate if you don't wash it regularly and spray some form of corrosion prevention on it.

I have a TJ that I bought in 1997, I was an idiot in my 20s and didn't take care of it. Jeep is perfect except for the rotted frame. So sad and all my fault.

 

[KingCopperhead]

Bought my son and I a pair of scale crawler kits for Christmas. Finally had a chance to take them out and play

 

[KingCopperhead]

Installeed my Adams 1310 drive shaft today. Extremely easy job. (had access to a lift and air tools which was awesome)

Also removed my terashit exhaust spacers. Over an inch of clearance at full droop between the crossover pipe in its stock location and the new drive shaft! Super stoked. Zero vibrations, looks like a million bucks. Going to test it out at Rausch in 2 weeks.

Oh before I forget. Some of you might remember that I have been chasing a rattling noise since the day I got the jeep. I initially thought it was cured by my Evo skins, and they did quiet down the noise. (by reinforcing the thin tub sheet metal.)

With the exhaust spacers off there isn't even a hint of a rattle. Smooth like butter. This was the last place I was going to look before chalking it up to just being a "jeep noise" so I'm thrilled to not have a rattling jk. (drove around for about 2 hours today after the install)

Getting closer to my drive train goals and feeling pretty good about not having that annoying rattle to deal.


Great customer service from James at Adams, definitely buying my rear shaft from them when the time comes.

 

[boardsurfer]

Did you pull the limit straps?

 

[KingCopperhead]

Did you pull the limit straps?

No, but if I have time I'm going to pull them in the rausch lot in 2 weeks and go up the RTI ramp to check my clearances. If I don't pull a brake line or overextended the shocks I'll just leave em off. that's my main concern atm.

I'll let you know how it works out.

 

[KingCopperhead]

Been a while since I updated. Recently added an aluminum EVO rear fascia, with D ring mounts, and I just scored a new in box trektop Nx (seller never even opened the box) merry Christmas to me!

 

[KingCopperhead]

New Ruff Stuff tie rod with offset 1 ton gm ends. Clears my PS diff cover easily, and the ends clear my 17" atx wheels with no spacers (4.5" bs) haven't been able to go off road yet. It should hold up better than the stock one which took its last beating at Rausch this fall.