Following these great instructions I replaced the bulbs in my window switches and then climate controls. During long trips I would have to "dim" down the backlighting because the surface of the switches got hot enough that I was afraid the plastic might melt. I've seen it happen in a few late 1990's Grand Cherokees.
You can see in the pictures below that I powered the LEDs using the orange wire with the grey stripe (it's smaller in diameter than the rest of the wires in both harnesses, I think it's a 22). That allows the LEDs to dim with the rest of the Jeep's back lighting. I ordered 10 LEDs from mentioned website and I had them four days later. I used the warm white color and they worked great.
Here are some pictures of what I did:
I removed the old light bulbs/housings and used little pieces of electrical tape to cover up the old contacts. I installed the LEDs in the exact area where each bulb was removed. As you can see from the "final project" picture that I should have put an extra LED in the lower left and right corner areas. Aside from that they provide better light coverage than the stock bulbs. All buttons and switches still work perfectly. They dim with the rest of the interior lighting as I wanted them to work. When I need to go in there again, I'll install a few more LEDs to have complete back lighting coverage.
I also disassembled the locker/e-disco switch panel. I didn't find any normal light bulbs in their so I left them alone and re-installed it the way it was. I have pictures of it too if anyone is interested in what the internals look like.
Man I wish I had you guys around to help with my LED lights. I took apart my dash a few times to replace my window switch lights on my '09 and failed every time. Can't figure the correct wires to tap etc. should be pretty straight forward but hasn't been so easy for me. This is something I want to accomplish though.
Take a look at the picture I posted of the wire with the finishing nail pushed through it in my above post. That is the wire you need to tap into to power your LED back lights. It's smaller in diameter than the rest of the wires in the harnesses for each unit in the console (climate controls, window switches, etc). You also need to tap into a ground wire or run your own to a hard point on the body. I choose to run my own. Just take your time and use a volt meter to check the wires, remember to turn your Jeep's power on to the interior lighting (just to turn on your auxiliaries and running lights, no need to start the engine) so that the power will be running through the wire.
The lights on the power window switches stopped working at about 8 months on my 2011 JKUR. Had the dealer replace it and now they have failed again. I'm going to try this fix. Hopefully it will last longer than the stock lighting. Has anyone tried this fix on the rear window switches located on the back of the center console?
You can do it the same way. Just be careful with routing the flat wire from the LEDs (there isn't as much room back there to route them). That unit opens up very similar to the front windows controls. Look up a replacement thread for the rear window switches to help you open of the console for access to that switch module.
I installed rear USB power outlets was I in there. It's just a pain to remove the outer plastic housing to get access to the switch module, just try not to force it off.
44k miles and my driver switch burned out
I was happy to see such a great write up come up from my search. I knew there was a good chance there wouldn't have been one.
Love this place. Thanks for taking the time.
I tried to do it with just the desoldering wick first and it was a major PIA (~45 minutes for one post). I've used the wick before on small joints, those tabs were a hole other kind of solder joint. So I bought the vacuum and did the other 3 posts in less than 15 minutes.
FANTASTIC write up ! Thanks a gazillion ... :thumb::thumb:
Not meaning to hijack ... But I was wondering if it's possible to make the power window switches operate with a one touch up instead of the current one touch down.
Is it possible ? What would it take ?
You can't make it one-click up because of the way the circuit board is constructed. The pin for each switch (only the front windows for "07-'11 model years) is only designed to be activated for the downward direction. If you look at the pictures for the boards you'll see what I mean. The pins activate their respective buttons that send the electrical signal that causes the window to operate until it's completely down. You would have to re-construct the entire board to incorporate the one touch up function. Not impossible if you have the skills, time, etc.