Loose/flighty/“Dead spot” in steering

[DWiggles]

Agreed.


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Caster, and tight steering linkages are about the only variables in this equation. The rest of the "slop" is just due to the mechanical nature of the system. Placing a Hydraulic cylinder on the tierod isolates the "slop" between the steering box, and the tierod. Thus, when you turn the steering wheel; the box, the cylinder, AND thus the tires, all move together. :rock:

Because the Cylinder and Steering Box move in unison on the same hydraulic system.

Your Mechanical linkage "slop" is still there, but it is now Hydraulically isolated.

 

[RageKage]

Yea and like I said before it’s never bothered me. Seems to bother everyone else tho. Lol


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[DWiggles]

Yea and like I said before it’s never bothered me. Seems to bother everyone else tho. Lol


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Fuck 'em. Its YOUR jeep :crazyeyes:

 

[RageKage]

Hahaha exactly! But seriously I appreciate all the help and insight hopefully I can get things to tighten up.


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[DWiggles]

Hahaha exactly! But seriously I appreciate all the help and insight hopefully I can get things to tighten up.


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-I would check caster, make sure you are around the recommended 4° with the stock axle (if you are already running around without a front drive shaft, might as well get back up into the 6° range)
-check/set toe to about 1/16"-1/8" toe-in
-Check TREs on the tierod and drag link
-Insure the drag link is parallel to the track-bar
-make sure your pitman arm is in good condition/torqued to spec
- check torque on EVERYTHING but specifically, drag link to knuckle, tie rod ends to knuckle, drag link to pitman, track bar to axle, track bar to frame, and ball joints.

If everything checks out, this is just the way it is. if you want to send the money for hydro, do it. Otherwise, Just enjoy a "great driving jeep" free from death wobble. :yup:

 

[RageKage]

-I would check caster, make sure you are around the recommended 4° with the stock axle (if you are already running around without a front drive shaft, might as well get back up into the 6° range)
-Check TREs on the tierod and drag link
-Insure the drag link is parallel to the track-bar
-make sure your pitman arm is in good condition/torqued to spec
- check torque on EVERYTHING but specifically, drag link to knuckle, tie rod ends to knuckle, drag link to pitman, track bar to axle, track bar to frame, and ball joints.

If everything checks out, this is just the way it is. if you want to send the money for hydro, do it. Otherwise, Just enjoy a "great driving jeep" free from death wobble. :yup:

Will do thanks again. Yea free from death wobble cuz I’ve already had it and fixed it [emoji41]


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[desertrunner]

I think it is also possible that what your friends are calling a "dead spot" is just them being used to rack and pinion steering, opposed to the "oldschool" Ackerman system, along with the roll of the drag link.

Before I went to cylinder assist, I tried everything in the world to tighten up the steering feel. The added caster of the PR44 helped a ton with the "sawing at the wheel" on road trips (removing my front drive shaft was NOT an option for me.) But Ultimately, the wheel still had a bit more play then I wanted. what gave me the modern feel I was looking for all along was the cylinder assist kit. :thumb:

Its just a bonus how much it helps in the rocks. On the street, its amazing! :thumb: on my list MUST HAVE's for sure

I have been seeing a few threads recently about loose steering and that dead spot for about an inch or so of moving there steering wheel back and forth and nothing happening. It's especially noticeable for me since my DD is a brand new Taco with electric fly by wire steering. Anyway I just chocked it up to it being the slack in the rack and pinion style steering plus maybe partially wore out drag link ends. Sounds like that is your opinion too

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[DWiggles]

I have been seeing a few threads recently about loose steering and that dead spot for about an inch or so of moving there steering wheel back and forth and nothing happening. It's especially noticeable for me since my DD is a brand new Taco with electric fly by wire steering. Anyway I just chocked it up to it being the slack in the rack and pinion style steering plus maybe partially wore out drag link ends. Sounds like that is your opinion too

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Correct.
What you are explaining is identical to the kind of mechanical slop one would expect in a ACKERMAN steering system, and a very big reason why truck developers sought to implement rack and pinion systems to their vehicles in the first place. It is SIGNIFICANTLY more responsive & tight feeling. Hence why your brand new taco is IFS. :yup: :beer:

 

[2nd.gunman]

Running 37s I’d say it’s fair to say you’re feeling a little bit of tire sidewall flex as well


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[RageKage]

Post some pics of your drag link and track bar. Even if they aren't parallel, that shouldn't be the cause of the dead spot. I'm guessing that the splines on your pitman arm aren't as tight as the OEM arm or that nut isn't fully tightened. If you have someone turn the steering wheel while you have your hand on the pitman arm, you should be able to feel if it's loose.

Here’s a pic for reference of drag link and track bar parallel



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