Mobil 1 extended performance oil?
- Thread starter tkkim
- Start date
TrailRidden
New member
I use Royal Purple because its purple. :rock:
Tackerdown
Banned
My question to all this is what causes oil to get dirty?
NFRs2000NYC
Caught the Bug
If you have more than one vehicle, Amsoil isn't actually too bad when you buy in bulk. They used to sell 2.5 gallon jugs, but since have stopped. My friends and I split a 55 gallon drum a few years ago when all of our cars took 10w30, but now we all have different weights so we are left to fend for ourselves.
NFRs2000NYC
Caught the Bug
The wear on the metal (there is still metal to metal contact) and combustion byproducts. A quality filter will keep your oil "clean" from debris. Black oil does not mean bad oil. You want your oil "dirty." If it's clean, something isn't doing its job.
Tackerdown
Banned
Ok that has been my understanding. So now I'm guessing that the filter is going to be the focus. This is the reason I always thought the 3,000 mile oil change was important. Is it the fact that the syn oils protect the metal better ( less debris ) and the combustion isn't as big a factor as in older cars?
NFRs2000NYC
Caught the Bug
Both modern motors and modern oils are far superior in terms of wear protection. They are built to far tighter tolerances with minimal "play." The 3000 mile oil change in modern vehicles is nothing more than dealers keeping busy and a steady flow of easy money. A decent synthetic will run 10K with ease and a good one won't even break down at all for 15K. Today you see that cars come with "oil life meters" and those go from 8K to 16K and thats from the manufacturer. I usually recommend good filters like Amsoil (I always tell people to stay away from Fram), but many manufacturers (like Jeep) are switching over to cartridge units. I changed my oil a few days ago and the cartridge was fairly clean (no significant debris).
Honestly, there is no need to overthink it. Use a quality synthetic from any store (use whatever is on sale) and a quality filter (or an OEM cartridge) and you won't have any issues. I noticed right away when I switched to synthetic that the motor ran smoother and quieter. With a hardtop on and the windows closed, I can no longer hear the motor AT ALL on a warm idle. It is Lexus quiet.
NFRs2000NYC
Caught the Bug
I tend not to use manufacturer charts (although Amsoils is actually legit) because people tend to say "of course this chart says XYZ is better, they did the test." The info I posed way up top is all the info anyone ever needs when it comes to choosing an oil.
Bearjew1
New member
i know one thing for a fact and that is...1 month ago i had the diff looked over at a 4x4 shop in the area also known as okauto and 4wheel drive the 1 thing the mechanic insisted on is i run amsoil syn gear oil in the diffs so i went with the suggestion of the mech. i mean 4x4's is all they do so i would say they known a thing or 2
NFRs2000NYC
Caught the Bug
I run Mobil1 in my diffs, but Amsoil is even better. I just use mobil1 because it's a quality product and is easy to get. The only way to buy Amsoil for me is online.
Devallee
New member
Definitely learned some new stuff here. I'm at 50k miles and never ran synthetic and the motor is still running like a champ but I'm due for an oil change and from what I've read on here it looks like I'm gonna be flushing it out and switching to synthetic and maybe my baby will be around for a little longer :cheesy:
CaliCrusher
New member
Do you have to run a flush going to synthetic? If so how can the type of oil be determined if it's not marked? I bought a 2012 two months ago and there's no info or sticker about the type or brand of oil used.
Tackerdown
Banned
Kinda late on this but thanks for the info.
Sent from my SPH-L720
Sent from my SPH-L720
JKWrang
New member
You shouldn't mix. Just run your dino oil til the next change and make the switch if you want to. Im gonna capitalize on my OE Free oil changes but after that I'm synth. All my trucks have always been synth
Sent from my phone while I should probably be getting work done
Jeep Bro 08
New member
What royal purple ever do to this guy
TrainWreck618
Caught the Bug
Thread revival!!!
Interesting thread, but I think it's a bit out dated now. Doesn't look like Castrol 'Edge Extended Performance', Castrol 'GTX Magnatec' or Pennzoil 'Ultra Platinum' were tested. Would be interesting to see this updated. My Dad has used Mobil 1 in all of his car which he drives to 100k+ and has never had any problems. I've got 4 free oil changes at the dealer through the Wave program, so will use those first, and will ask for full synthetic, even if I have to pay the difference from conventional. I read a lot about oil before choosing one for my out of warranty Porsche. Funny thing is after all the reading, I chose an oil not approved by Porsche, and w/o API certification. Many people who know Porsche m96 & m97 engines (essentially water cooled flat sixes from 1999-2008) will suggest using Joe Gibbs Driven DT40. I see Driven makes both a 5W-20 and a 5W-30. http://www.drivenracingoil.com/dro/products/street-performance-engine-oilshtml I may try them after I'm out of warranty. Some people who know m96 & m97 engines very well say Mobil 1 is very good at keeping the engine clean, but not so great at preventing wear. Only downside I can see with the Driven oils is the added ZDDP may wear out the cats quicker. To me, however, cats are cheaper than major engine work.
