PR44 Questions

Texas Nick · Oct 8, 2015

Northridge4x4 said:
Couple Facts here:

We have built more pro rock 44's than any other retailer
We have a very strict QA process that each housing goes through prior to shipping
Dynatrac has very strict guidelines as well on who they allow to setup there axles and we are one of them.
Backlash is a precise measurement that doesn't just get set differently based on the person who builds the axle.
We have two guys that do nothing but build pro rock 44' and 60's in house in Washington and each one of these gets multiple Quality checks before it leaves.

America is a great country and you get to choose what you do with your money and people are entitled to an opinion.

David

Great response and attitude!

Ddays · Oct 8, 2015

Texas Nick said:
Great response and attitude!

^^^This

One thing I have taken away from this thread and any other regarding ORE, Northridge and Dynatrac, is that no one has anything bad to say about any of these three companies, ever. Ok, so the Northridge shipping peanuts are a pain in the ass,

but seriously, I don't think you truly can go wrong ordering anything from any of them.

ChaosNein · Oct 8, 2015

Ddays said:
^^^This

One thing I have taken away from this thread and any other regarding ORE, Northridge and Dynatrac, is that no one has anything bad to say about any of these three companies, ever. Ok, so the Northridge shipping peanuts are a pain in the ass, but seriously, I don't think you truly can go wrong ordering anything from any of them.

EVO MFG uses those AWESOME shipping "nuts" as well

branman · Oct 8, 2015

drew@offroadevolution said:
EVO MFG uses those AWESOME shipping "nuts" as well

Yes - Yes they do

Ddays · Oct 8, 2015

drew@offroadevolution said:
EVO MFG uses those AWESOME shipping "nuts" as well

HAHAHA! I gotta get me some EVO nuts I guess! Wait, that sounds akward....

Benito · Jan 5, 2016

Thread revival

drew@offroadevolution said:
You can purchase a PR44 with an ARB RD117 (30 spline) but it must be built that way or you can purchase a PR44 with an ARB RD147 (35 spline) and it must be built that way as well. If you chose to purchase a PR44 Housing and plan to swap your RUBICON Internals into it, then it is a different PR44 Pumpkin and will then ONLY upgrade to an ARB RD157 (35 spline). As far as it not being set up correctly, well that all depends on who you are having set it up. We do a number of these upgrades and they work perfect! The disclaimer that Dynatrac is giving is because the ARB RD157 WILL NOT work in a Conventional JK PR44 Pumpkin, it is designed to replace a RUBICON Locker in a RUBICON Pumpkin. But if you want to keep your 30 spline axle shafts to be able to have minimal "spares", just have your PR44 built that way.

drew@offroadevolution said:
This IS true unless you purchased another Rubicon E-Locker when yours goes out... EXPENSIVE!!!

My personal opinion, I would go with a PR44 Unlimited/Extreme Housing / Pro Steer Ball Joints / ARB 35 Spline Locker / RCV 35 Spline Axle Shafts - now you did mention that you did not like RCVs, so swapping out those with another set of 35 spline axles shafts (NON-RUBICON) and to be honest, I am not 100% sure who else is making 35 spline fronts. I know the G2 Placer Golds were out there and then they were not. I think Nitro is also making them, just have not personally seen them.

Dynatrac said:
Drew at OR EVO has answered this very well. The Rubicon electric diff requires unique shaft lengths. No other diff will use those shafts. Therefore I recommend going with our conventional PR44 housing, an ARB, and if you choose not to go with RCV, then Dynatrac will offer 4340, 30spl, front, 1350 joint, US made shafts imminently.

If you are after 35 spline shafts in the front, then I would not do so unless you also upgrade the wheel ends to our Pro Series ends and 1480 shafts. That’s the same as our ProRock60 wheel end. That is a bigger step up in cost, but is the ultimate 44-class front axle. That is what we installed on the Jeep NuKizer, and other custom, low body height builds.

The total low-cost way to go is with a PR44, re-use your Rubicon internals, Rubicon shafts, stock wheel ends, and stock brakes. The big drawback is that any time you need a replacement factory Rubicon diff for your front axle, it is about $1500 last time I looked. They are a good unit, but not anywhere near the durability of an ARB. The latest Eaton 44 E-locker is also another choice if you prefer electric activation.

I am going to place an order for a PR44 soon and I want a housing that I can use my rubicon internals in. If I am understanding the information above correctly, my options for when my factory locker goes out is 1) replace with another factory locker or 2) get an ARB RD157 that requires new 35 spline axle shafts. Correct?

My question for the first option is: is the factory locker a rebranded electric locker or is it a mopar part?"

And my question for the second option is: are the 35 spline shafts readily available and compatible with the stub shafts for the JK outers?

hinrichs · Apr 12, 2016

Benito said:
Thread revival

I am going to place an order for a PR44 soon and I want a housing that I can use my rubicon internals in. If I am understanding the information above correctly, my options for when my factory locker goes out is 1) replace with another factory locker or 2) get an ARB RD157 that requires new 35 spline axle shafts. Correct?

My question for the first option is: is the factory locker a rebranded electric locker or is it a mopar part?"

And my question for the second option is: are the 35 spline shafts readily available and compatible with the stub shafts for the JK outers?

Bumping an old thread, but is the above correct? So you can eventually go with an arb after the factory locker fails?

Exodus 4x4 · Apr 12, 2016

hinrichs said:
Bumping an old thread, but is the above correct? So you can eventually go with an arb after the factory locker fails?

You can go to an ARB RD157 and 35 spline shafts after/if your factory locker fails. I called Steve at Dynatrac and asked him.

cozdude · Apr 12, 2016

Granite_head said:
You can go to an ARB RD157 and 35 spline shafts after/if your factory locker fails. I called Steve at Dynatrac and asked him.

Or you can get rd117 which will let you keep your stock 30spline shafts.

hinrichs · Apr 12, 2016

I am only thinking about the rubicon replacement housing at this point, which is the one I think can only be upgraded to the RD157

DWiggles · Apr 12, 2016

hinrichs said:
Bumping an old thread, but is the above correct? So you can eventually go with an arb after the factory locker fails?

Granite_head said:
You can go to an ARB RD157 and 35 spline shafts after/if your factory locker fails. I called Steve at Dynatrac and asked him.

cozdude said:
Or you can get rd117 which will let you keep your stock 30spline shafts.

hinrichs said:
I am only thinking about the rubicon replacement housing at this point, which is the one I think can only be upgraded to the RD157

For my understanding of Drew's original post in this thread, you can run a FACTORY locker OR ARB RD157 (35 spline) in the same axle, the RD117 would require a different PR44 axle configuration. At least, that is how I understood what he said here:

drew@offroadevolution said:
You can purchase a PR44 with an ARB RD117 (30 spline) but it must be built that way or you can purchase a PR44 with an ARB RD147 (35 spline) and it must be built that way as well. If you chose to purchase a PR44 Housing and plan to swap your RUBICON Internals into it, then it is a different PR44 Pumpkin and will then ONLY upgrade to an ARB RD157 (35 spline). As far as it not being set up correctly, well that all depends on who you are having set it up. We do a number of these upgrades and they work perfect! The disclaimer that Dynatrac is giving is because the ARB RD157 WILL NOT work in a Conventional JK PR44 Pumpkin, it is designed to replace a RUBICON Locker in a RUBICON Pumpkin. But if you want to keep your 30 spline axle shafts to be able to have minimal "spares", just have your PR44 built that way.

Exodus 4x4 · Apr 12, 2016

hinrichs said:
I am only thinking about the rubicon replacement housing at this point, which is the one I think can only be upgraded to the RD157

Correct. That's the housing I purchased and swapped my internals over. Now I'm considering the RD157.

DWiggles · Apr 12, 2016

Granite_head said:
Correct. That's the housing I purchased and swapped my internals over. Now I'm considering the RD157.

I would pull your carrier/locker and see if you can bench test it first. I cant imagine the guy would get the rear right, but somehow DESTROY the front, unless he dropped it or something?? at least when I was handling mine, It seemed pretty damn solid to me.

hinrichs · Apr 12, 2016

Maybe I will really look into this as an option now, just makes me wonder what a unloaded d44 stock housing is even worth tho.

Exodus 4x4 · Apr 12, 2016

hinrichs said:
Maybe I will really look into this as an option now, just makes me wonder what a unloaded d44 stock housing is even worth tho.

I installed the axle and swapped over the steering myself, then drove it to a local shop for the gear swap. I then sold the stock 44 to the guy that did the 5.13 swap for $300, and that included and AEV diff cover and a track bar relocation bracket. Mostly I just didn't feel like loading it back up and taking it home when the gear swap was done. In hindsight I wish I had kept it and gave it away to a member looking to upgrade their front axle.

Exodus 4x4 · Apr 12, 2016

DWiggles said:
I would pull your carrier/locker and see if you can bench test it first. I cant imagine the guy would get the rear right, but somehow DESTROY the front, unless he dropped it or something?? at least when I was handling mine, It seemed pretty damn solid to me.

That's the plan for now. Just looking for the time to do it. As you know now, pulling the front diff is a lot of work and not something I want to take on right at the moment. When I do I'll pull everything out and put the axle back together without shafts or driveshaft and just have a 2 wheeler for awhile. I won't be wheeling any time in the next 6-8 months anyways.

2nd.gunman · Apr 12, 2016

Granite_head said:
That's the plan for now. Just looking for the time to do it. As you know now, pulling the front diff is a lot of work and not something I want to take on right at the moment. When I do I'll pull everything out and put the axle back together without shafts or driveshaft and just have a 2 wheeler for awhile. I won't be wheeling any time in the next 6-8 months anyways.

Make sure you fit some outer stub axles if you do this otherwise the unit bearings may separate causing a wheel to come off.

Exodus 4x4 · Apr 12, 2016

2nd.gunman said:
Make sure you fit some outer stub axles if you do this otherwise the unit bearings may separate causing a wheel to come off.

Yeah I forgot about that one. I'll probably just decommission the whole rig until it's fixed. Not a daily driver anymore so it's not a big deal.

JKbrick · Apr 14, 2016

2nd.gunman said:
Make sure you fit some outer stub axles if you do this otherwise the unit bearings may separate causing a wheel to come off.

I could be wrong but I believe I've read that isn't the case with a JK like it was on a TJ

Benito · Apr 14, 2016

JKbrick said:
I could be wrong but I believe I've read that isn't the case with a JK like it was on a TJ

I think your right, I think I have read that the 2x4 JKU use the same unit bearings so I don't think they would have a stub shaft to hold it together

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