Pro Rock 44 with 40's.....

[ak49]

Do those run 8-10k? I assume I could probbaly get $2500 for a factory Rubicon 44. I also assume both axles need o be done at the same time?

Ill take the advice above and start with the 38's and save for the Axles.:thumb:

You can get a PR60 front and PR80 rear pretty well built for 18k. I just did mine and I went with most of the upgrades except the reid racing, I just stuck with RCV instead. My front was about $10k. PR80 rear was about 8k.

I did the same thing as you. I sold my front and rear axles to help subsidize the cost of the PR axles.

 

[ak49]

Eddie.....what about stopping power? How much bigger are the rotors and pads on 60s as compared to 44s? I have a hard enough time with 37s right now, I can't imagine what braking would be like with 40s.

I'm sure there are different options, but the calipers/pads/rotors on mine were basically equivalent to what's on the Ford F350's.

 

[JK1]

It SOUNDS like he has SOME intention of using his rig. It also SOUNDS like he just traded in a near $80K WK2 SRT8 because he didnt get what he wanted. Maybe the idea of cost avoidance and truly understanding the balance between wants, needs, and cost need to get weighed more judiciously before arbitrarily embarking on this next step. That's just my .02 but what do i know?

yeah what do i know the OP also said.....

I like the moderate trails (Last Chance Canyon. Cleghorn etc). I do want to start doing some more challenging stuff but will never do a trail where I will get body damage (Im a Mall Crawler at heart apparently).

My question is this- Going easy on the skinny pedal and not wheeling like an ecsaped con, will a prorock 44 be sufficient for the most part on 40's? I emailed Nitto to find out the weight difference between 38x15.5x20s and 40x15.x20s and am stillwaitingto hear back. I know I dont need 40's, but daddy like 40's!!!!!!!!!!!!!

:idontknow:.. dont listen to us its your build.. build it however you want i would run 40s on d44 no issue i have seen alot of people do that and survive not everyone wheels every weekend and wheel where wheel hop and alot of skinny pedal is needed. just my 2 cents even though this 2 cents wont be liked by everyone but oh well

would i try and run the JKX on d44 and 40..nope

I will never do the fast desert stuff. !

i didnt see where he was talking about a DTD but if your not planning on doing dessert stuff then why do a DTD? i thought that was the whole purpose of a DTD. I guess i could be wrong but i think for what he is talking about bolt on coilovers would suffice..and spend the extra money on axles :idontknow:

 

[ak49]

yeah what do i know the OP also said..... :idontknow:.. dont listen to us its your build.. build it however you want i would run 40s on d44 no issue i have seen alot of people do that and survive not everyone wheels every weekend and wheel where wheel hop and alot of skinny pedal is needed. just my 2 cents even though this 2 cents wont be liked by everyone but oh well

would i try and run the JKX on d44 and 40..nope



i didnt see where he was talking about a DTD but if your not planning on doing dessert stuff then why do a DTD? i thought that was the whole purpose of a DTD. I guess i could be wrong but i think for what he is talking about bolt on coilovers would suffice..and spend the extra money on axles :idontknow:

I agree about the DTD, although I disagree about axles. I originally had the bolt-on coilovers with my stock d44 rubicon axles, although I opted to have the coilovers welded on and the arctec truss kit welded on. After that I changed from 35" tires to 40's. and went from stock axles to a PR 60, and PR80. I'm from the midwest although half my wheeling is on the west coast, which is why i went for the dtd. it just depends ont he personal use.

 

[Vettethret]

The op said somewhere that he wanted a full DTD suspension (maybe I'm wrong?!?). Spending all the cash on installing the DTD brackets and levers only to toss half of it when you do an axle swap and replace the discarded pieces seems like a huge waste. I am admittedly far from an expert compared to many here, but I have recently done the math myself and made the choice to avoid "incrementalism" because this isnt the type of system where you simply bolt parts on and then rebolt them to another set of axles. It SOUNDS like he has SOME intention of using his rig. It also SOUNDS like he just traded in a near $80K WK2 SRT8 because he didnt get what he wanted. Maybe the idea of cost avoidance and truly understanding the balance between wants, needs, and cost need to get weighed more judiciously before arbitrarily embarking on this next step. That's just my .02 but what do i know?

Im not sure what you mean when you say " I didnt get what I wanted"? I sold the SRT because when I put my dogs in the back it would rub, even going with a mid drop.It was a great rig and I thought it would work as a Bullmastiff/St Bernard hauler, but it didnt. I also didnt think I would miss my Rubicon, but I did. It defintiley wasnt my best decision for sure, but its gone now and Im getting another Rubicon. This will be my thrid built JK. Ita a progression as you learn what you would do different from your last build, thats why I am going to EVO this time. I did very briefly look at the DTD, but it would be a waste for the type of wheeling I do/want to do, so I will stick with the Bolt On Coil overs (Which Im sure will be MORE than sufficient)

 

[Vettethret]

Reading your posts it sounds like you'll probably never use the 38s to their full potential either and simply like the look of bigger tires. I'd just run your Dana 44 and the 38s until it breaks or you sell the jeep,whichever comes first. :thumb:

Havnt heard of too many people breaking on 37's (The 38's are .7 higher). Im not worried about breaking an axle with 38's

 

[SDG]

Havnt heard of too many people breaking on 37's (The 38's are .7 higher). Im not worried about breaking an axle with 38's

Breaking a stock 44 with 37's... pretty common. I would consider bent tubes to be broken. That is the ultimate result of installing 37's and actually using them. Assuming you are actually "rock offroading" your jeep, not just sitting on 37's for the mall and fire roads.

 

[Vettethret]

Breaking a stock 44 with 37's... pretty common. I would consider bent tubes to be broken. That is the ultimate result of installing 37's and actually using them. Assuming you are actually "rock offroading" your jeep, not just sitting on 37's for the mall and fire roads.

Wow! Ive been on the forums for years now and have never heard of someone breaking axles with 37's? Again, my wheeling is moderate so Im not too concerned. If it ever did break, then I woulld be "forced" to buy the 60's and would then have to get the 40's. If that day comes it comes, I have healthy organs to sell!

I will go ahead with my original plans of Bolt on coilvers and 38's. I left a message with my dealer today about ordering a 15 Rubi X.:thumb: