Pro rock axle 44/60 set up with stock(ish) suspension

AZ Explorer

Caught the Bug
Since it would have been a custom order my plan was to buy the extra thick housing with the standard caster.

My thought was, on my last JKUR and plenty of others running stock rubi axles on 37s and a 3-4" lift with just a drag link flip I didn't think my jeep drove that terrible sure it could be better and I have never rode in or driven a jeep with a pr44 unlimited so maybe it's a significant difference that I'm not seeing.

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It varies from Jeep to Jeep. You can dial in any axle to ride perfectly in terms of caster. Where the unlimited housing comes in is once you set the caster to pretty much perfect, the built in pinion angle is set to put your driveshaft where it needs to be so you don't have vibration. Extreme vibration can damage your transfer case. Generally at 3-3.5" and below there usually isn't a vibration problem. I didn't have any issues at all on 3.5, when I went to 4.5 that's when the problems started which I fixed but it was crazy to me how one extra inch of lift was night and day. The JK's seem to have a bunch of little quirk that I've never had to deal with on any older Jeep. But the solutions are there and can be managed and are worth it in the end.
 
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kawimoto

Member
Since you have a Sport, you could get the front PR44 & the rear factory 44 upgrade kit.


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The additional castor is well worth it, I'm running an unlimited myself. Made a huge difference and I'm running adjustable uppers and lowers. Plus you'd be over axled on 33's. The axles would handle a lot of abuse but now your at a big disadvantage in clearance anyhow. IMO wait and go with the unlimited with the heavy wall thickness and run the rear 44 built up. It'll handle up to 37's no problem, yes the flanges are still a risk, but most of the time a tight axle squeezing line can be avoided and that is generally what bends flanges. Unless your going to go Full float, its a waste to go one ton at all. You'll be better served with a lift and control arms to get that axle set up properly so it can wheel, but also drive nicely down the road day in and day out. I honestly think you'll regret spending the money getting a standard housing. Just my two cents.
 

desertrunner

Active Member
It varies from Jeep to Jeep. You can dial in any axle to ride perfectly in terms of caster. Where the unlimited housing comes in is once you set the caster to pretty much perfect, the built in pinion angle is set to put your driveshaft where it needs to be so you don't have vibration. Extreme vibration can damage your transfer case. Generally at 3-3.5" and below there usually isn't a vibration problem. I didn't have any issues at all on 3.5, when I went to 4.5 that's when the problems started which I fixed but it was crazy to me how one extra inch of lift was night and day. The JK's seem to have a bunch of little quirk that I've never had to deal with on any older Jeep. But the solutions are there and can be managed and are worth it in the end.
There's also a point to be made there I have absolutely zero intention of going that high on a lift I'm hoping to get it dialed right at 3" with the 37s which I why I figured it really wouldn't matter all that much for the caster. But I do see what your saying about pinion angle I didn't really take that part into account to have the pinion angle AND caster set better with the unlimited

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J

JKDream

Guest
There's also a point to be made there I have absolutely zero intention of going that high on a lift I'm hoping to get it dialed right at 3" with the 37s which I why I figured it really wouldn't matter all that much for the caster. But I do see what your saying about pinion angle I didn't really take that part into account to have the pinion angle AND caster set better with the unlimited

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The stock caster is quite low even without a lift anyway. JKS drive better in the 6-7 degree mark regardless of suspension setups.
 

desertrunner

Active Member
I definitely see the benefit to having more caster and getting the pinion dialed in better, I have been on the phone multiple times with dynatrac to get their opinion on things and so far they have said that if 3-3.5 Is all I'm planning on going then I really should have no problem with the stock geometry or drive line issues although I do see the benefit to the unlimited housing later. Steeve did also say if I wanted to go that route that the JK clearance is so good even with only the 1" lift I'm on that the sf60 shouldn't have an issue clearing. So I am still a little stuck on how I want to play this out but I appreciate the input and hopefully I can work a win win situation for me now and later without spending money twice.

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desertrunner

Active Member
Really sucks not having a good 4x4 shop that I know of in town, I'm just hesitant to let a random shop here set up gears and an ARB in my rear axle or I would probably just pull the trigger on the trail leader next month since it sounds like I can be fine either way on the front pr44 and the rear 44 should be plenty for 37s. The standard pr44 and sf60 would be mostly on me to set up minus finding a place to get a rear drive shaft made, which I'm sure I can order through Adams anyway.

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J

JKDream

Guest
Really sucks not having a good 4x4 shop that I know of in town, I'm just hesitant to let a random shop here set up gears and an ARB in my rear axle or I would probably just pull the trigger on the trail leader next month since it sounds like I can be fine either way on the front pr44 and the rear 44 should be plenty for 37s. The standard pr44 and sf60 would be mostly on me to set up minus finding a place to get a rear drive shaft made, which I'm sure I can order through Adams anyway.

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Setting up gears and lockers really isn't that bad, it's more the tools needed and patience to do the job properly that makes it difficult. I wouldn't stress over it too much. Honestly the JK 44s are vastly improved from the previous generation. I had a old generation 44 in my ZJ and I couldn't keep it together for shit on 35s. My JK 44 takes a beating and smiles back (in a good way, not the bendy way). It's really the housings that are garbage - not so much the differentials. Deflection from the housing flexing is what primarily chews up ring gears. Whichever way you go I think you'll be happy with the Dynatrac housing(s) regardless.

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desertrunner

Active Member
I think I may have figured out at least where to start with this whole deal. Think I am going to go ahead and buy the evo level kit now and see where that puts me as far as height goes and see if I think I can clear 37s under the 2" plush rides. If not then I know I will have to go higher and I'll go unlimited front housing, if it puts me at about 2.5" and I think I'll be able to clear 37s without any more lift I'll go standard housing.
Not sure if I can clear 37s under a 2.5" lift though

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Clutch

Caught the Bug
I think I may have figured out at least where to start with this whole deal. Think I am going to go ahead and buy the evo level kit now and see where that puts me as far as height goes and see if I think I can clear 37s under the 2" plush rides. If not then I know I will have to go higher and I'll go unlimited front housing, if it puts me at about 2.5" and I think I'll be able to clear 37s without any more lift I'll go standard housing.
Not sure if I can clear 37s under a 2.5" lift though

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I'd be willing to bet 37's would fit under the 2" plushrides. They gave me 3.25", but I didn't have a heavy qtr pounder. So you'll probably see 2.5-3".


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J

JKDream

Guest
I'd be willing to bet 37's would fit under the 2" plushrides. They gave me 3.25", but I didn't have a heavy qtr pounder. So you'll probably see 2.5-3".


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It's different because you have a two door.
They net advertised on four doors for EVO coils.
 

desertrunner

Active Member
I'd be willing to bet 37's would fit under the 2" plushrides. They gave me 3.25", but I didn't have a heavy qtr pounder. So you'll probably see 2.5-3".


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My guess is I am going to get right at 3" on the evo level, the 2" plush rides would have been my next step any way even if I went with the standard housing so I might as well try them out and see what I get. At 2.5"-3" dynatrac seems to think that I don't need the unlimited housing and at 2.5" I'm gonna have some bow in my coils so I think I'm going to make the call after I get the 2" plush rides in there and see what I get and go from there

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