Rear ended a Lexus

Johnrag3

Johnrag3

New member
NevadaZielmeister said:
Airbag deployment is based on several key factors, but in general they will not go off unless you are traveling over 15mph and your impact is sudden. The construction of an airbag sensor is based on a ball bearing and a magnet. So imagine what it would take to remove those two. It is based completely off of momentum.

I suspect you were going less than 20 mph and you struck the vehicle at a plane higher than their frame, thereby spreading the forces over a further distance. If it was a frame to frame hit, then certainly your airbags would have gone off.

I always hear people talk about impacts at 30 and 50mph and then see their vehicles and laugh. Nope, more like 10 and 20mph sir. At energies greater than 15mph, you are already transferring energy into the frame, as the bumpers are only designed for impacts up to 15mph. After than, frame tearing occurs at 30 mph. Anything over 45mph is well beyond any testing procedures and considered life threatening. So pretty much anytime you go over 45mph, you're on your own.

Just some things to think about the next time you wanna do over 70mph.
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You're right. I was probably going a lot slower than it felt
 
jeeeep

jeeeep

Hooked
Johnrag3 said:
So the Dana 30 housing is bent and the control arm bracket on the axel side is broken. No other damage than that. I have the option of replacing the 30 with 4.88 and ARB or getting a pro rock. Any advice on order a pro rock? What options to get? I was thinking about getting a pro rock that is wider than stock. I think Eddie did this. Any thoughts. I would have to run spacers in the rear for a while until a could afford a pro rock in the rear.
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not sure if insurance is helping you out but when I got hit I was able to pay the difference between a procock and the stock D44.

Don't spend money on RCV's I've talked to a lot of owners who regret buying them.

Depending on your budget:

PR44 unlimited 1/2 thick tubes
ARB locker
Hi-steer trackbar bracket already welded on
Dynatrac ball joints
Axleshaft upgrade
Dynatrac ProGrips
 
Johnrag3

Johnrag3

New member
jeeeep said:
not sure if insurance is helping you out but when I got hit I was able to pay the difference between a procock and the stock D44.

Don't spend money on RCV's I've talked to a lot of owners who regret buying them.

Depending on your budget:

PR44 unlimited 1/2 thick tubes
ARB locker
Hi-steer trackbar bracket already welded on
Dynatrac ball joints
Axleshaft upgrade
Dynatrac ProGrips
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Talked to Dan at Dynatrac. He was super helpful and couldn't have been nicer. I got an estimate from them. If I got the high steer track bar bracket welded on wouldn't I need to flip my drag link? Also, I know the Reid knuckles are overkill but from what I understand they move steering componates up and help correct geometry?
 
jeeeep

jeeeep

Hooked
Johnrag3 said:
Talked to Dan at Dynatrac. He was super helpful and couldn't have been nicer. I got an estimate from them. If I got the high steer track bar bracket welded on wouldn't I need to flip my drag link? Also, I know the Reid knuckles are overkill but from what I understand they move steering componates up and help correct geometry?
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Reid knuckles do that, but then you'll definitely need the track bar bracket as the knuckles flips the drag link.

FYI they're also marked as Offroad use only and carry no warranty
 
Johnrag3

Johnrag3

New member
My local jeep shop said they will give me a better price on the pro rock 44 if I have them assemble it. I don't have an exact estimate yet but should I consider this? I'm not exactly sure but I'm assuming they make a little bit more money if they build it instead of getting it pre assembled from Dynatrac. Is this a good idea or not? I'm trying to save $ wherever I can. Any and all opinions/options are greatly appreciated.
 
rogerk93

rogerk93

New member
Johnrag3 said:
My local jeep shop said they will give me a better price on the pro rock 44 if I have them assemble it. I don't have an exact estimate yet but should I consider this? I'm not exactly sure but I'm assuming they make a little bit more money if they build it instead of getting it pre assembled from Dynatrac. Is this a good idea or not? I'm trying to save $ wherever I can. Any and all opinions/options are greatly appreciated.
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The only problem I see with this is if the shop has little or no experience doing that kind of work and making a mistake then not willing to have that mistake fixed.
 
jeeeep

jeeeep

Hooked
Johnrag3 said:
My local jeep shop said they will give me a better price on the pro rock 44 if I have them assemble it. I don't have an exact estimate yet but should I consider this? I'm not exactly sure but I'm assuming they make a little bit more money if they build it instead of getting it pre assembled from Dynatrac. Is this a good idea or not? I'm trying to save $ wherever I can. Any and all opinions/options are greatly appreciated.
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as long as they're using the exact same parts/name brand. some shops will use the cheapest parts (biggest profit margin) they sell.

The shop I had build mine tried to sell me a PR44 instead of the PR44 unlimited I paid for - luckily they have serial numbers so I was able to call Dynatrac and confirm before they installed it.

They also ordered it with stock ball joints and tried to upcharge me for installing aftermarket ball joints and because they didn't order it with the track bar bracket they charged me for their own shitty bracket and labor to weld it on (which I had to replace a year later cause it had bent and was breaking off)

make sure they order and install exactly what you want. sometimes saving a buck now will cost you more down the road.
 
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