Red Rock Rubicon Rebuild (2 door)

bones37

bones37

Member
JKbrick said:
I would like to see when you stretched the rear, if or how you relocated where the track bar attaches to the frame back, and did you move the coil mounts?
Click to expand...

Still on my to do list. The frame side trackbar bushing isn't binding, but I need to move the mount. The trackbar jam nut has rubbed a little on the passenger coil. Right now, the plan is to weld another plate and brace that to the existing mount. The new mount will essentially use the outside of the existing mount and will move it back 1".

I didn't move the coils, but I am using RK's spring correction wedges and they are working great.
 
bones37

bones37

Member
Ok, here is an update about the rear. I fabbed up a bracket to move the frame side mount back. Everything sits nice and even now. I used 1/4" steel and braced the new plate with the existing mount by using a small 1/4" piece. Here are some pics.

I still need to raise the axle side mount, but I need to do something about my exhaust pipe first (either shorten it even more which would put the exit in front of the axle, or run a high clearance pipe).

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bones37

bones37

Member
This showed up today. Now I have a few things to burn in on the rear axle. The problem is that I can't find the time! Hopefully I'll find an hour this weekend and post more pictures.

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bones37

bones37

Member
Wheeling plans fell through yesterday, so I spent some time with the rear axle. I put on the Protek truss and the Artec track bar bracket. The Jeep drove fine before, so I wasn't expecting much of a difference.. but wow, it is definitely less "rolly" around turns with the rear track bar parallel.

I thought I was going to have a clearance issue with the driver rear shock, but it turned out to be just fine.

Here is a picture with the old bracket taken off and axle tube smoothed out. I had to cut about 4 inches off the tailpipe for the track bar to clear.

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bones37

bones37

Member
Here are two more shots. Rain is in the forecast, so I put on my targa bikini, windjammer, and duster cover. The windjammer is the wrap around style, which is key to make sure it isn't useless. :thumb:

All I'm missing is a set of soft doors. With those, I would be able to keep everything in back to go from topless/doorless to fully covered if needed.

The soft top and frame is in my basement, so this is what I'm running in bad weather. I'm looking at a Trektop NX in the future and will use the top piece in place of my targa bikini with this setup in the future.

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Here is a very poor photoshop rendering of the soft door look.

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caminton

caminton

New member
bones37 said:
Here are two more shots. Rain is in the forecast, so I put on my targa bikini, windjammer, and duster cover. The windjammer is the wrap around style, which is key to make sure it isn't useless. :thumb:

All I'm missing is a set of soft doors. With those, I would be able to keep everything in back to go from topless/doorless to fully covered if needed.

The soft top and frame is in my basement, so this is what I'm running in bad weather. I'm looking at a Trektop NX in the future and will use the top piece in place of my targa bikini with this setup in the future.

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Here is a very poor photoshop rendering of the soft door look.

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Click to expand...

Love this look on 2 doors. When I was in Alabama I thought about going with something like this. Now that I'm in California, it's much colder (72 is a hot day around here), and North Dakota in a year or so will be much colder. Maybe someday in the future.
 
bones37

bones37

Member
Judesign said:
Again love the look. Have you tested out the new top configuration for rain?
Click to expand...

Yep, no leaks. The only place I have an issue is the rear duster cover around the roll bars. Since I don't have roll bar padding, the opening is a little bit bigger. I close it up as much as I can and then put a zip tie around each side. I haven't had any water come in, but it's the only place where the possibility exists.
 
Kyle7R

Kyle7R

New member
a little late, but what did you use to plug the hole in the body from the old Or-Fab carrier landing block? I am running the non-jerry can version, but thinking of trading in to a JKU and kinda wanna go back to stock so I can transfer my goodies.
 
bones37

bones37

Member
Kyle7R said:
a little late, but what did you use to plug the hole in the body from the old Or-Fab carrier landing block? I am running the non-jerry can version, but thinking of trading in to a JKU and kinda wanna go back to stock so I can transfer my goodies.
Click to expand...


I used a 1" plastic end cap I found at the hardware store. You should be able to find one in one of those 'specialty fasteners/etc' drawers. A little RTV to hold it and seal it on, and then I painted it.

It looks fine, but I want to get some corner armor in the future to cover it and the rear LED plates.
 
JKbrick

JKbrick

Active Member
bones37 said:
Ok, here is an update about the rear. I fabbed up a bracket to move the frame side mount back. Everything sits nice and even now. I used 1/4" steel and braced the new plate with the existing mount by using a small 1/4" piece. Here are some pics.

I still need to raise the axle side mount, but I need to do something about my exhaust pipe first (either shorten it even more which would put the exit in front of the axle, or run a high clearance pipe).

136.jpg


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140.jpg
Click to expand...

Thank you for posting this up, sorry I missed it till now, you made it look pretty easy. I think I'm going to try to leave my track bar alone and get the JKS adjustable coil perches first since I don't have a welder
 
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