Rust treatment recommendations

Tree Frog

New member
I have used the Extend before on my old CJ5 and it worked great. It turned the rust like black. Then you can prime and paint over it. of corse grind down all loose stuff and then spray it on.

Monstaliner is going in the bed of my old chevy truck real soon now.
Go to their web site as they review a bunch of the DIY bed liners and really get into what the others are made out of. Yeah I know they are biased toward their product. Great reviews on those other Jeep sites. (You know the ones I dont post on) :bleh:

I currently use the Rustoleum spray on bedliner stuff that comes in a red white and black can. Love the stuff. Sticks real good if prepped right. Pressure wash it for easy clean up.

Have used the Duplicolor stuff in the cab of the Chevy a long time ago. Then put Dynamat and carpet over it so who knows how it held up.
Watch it though as it will eat right through certain primers and leave you with a giant mess.



New member
My sister is an organic chemist that used to work for the company that makes the base formula in most if not all rust converters. She explained it to me that the product changes the iron oxide into a stable iron compound that is naturally dark in color and then the various additives are fillers and UV stabilizers mostly. Here is a write up from a vendor about how it works:
"What is Rust Converter? Rust Converter, a water-based primer, contains two active ingredients: Tannic acid and an organic polymer. The first ingredient, tannic acid, reacts with iron oxide (rust) and chemically converts it to iron tannate, a dark-colored stable material. Tannins are a group of water- and alcohol-soluble natural products extracted from fruits, trees and grasses. The second active ingredient, 2-Butoxyethanol, is an organic polymer that provides a protective primer layer. The overall chemical reaction converts rust into a stable, black protective polymeric coating that serves as an excellent primer for both oil and epoxy based paints."

To use properly you need to remove all rust scale and loose particles, stable surface rust is ok, then apply to stabilizer and let it dry. During the drying process the converter changes the rust. The trick is if you remove all the rust before application there is nothing to convert. I used to have problems with that part of it and had my sister watch me because I never got the color change. It was because I removed all the ruct. In that case she said just prime and paint as you would any other bare metal.


New member
Another thing that'll help you after you clean up the rust and wanna maintain it is fluid film. I spray everything underneath just before winter.

Big Bad Wolf

New member
Krown ranked high on the Canadian Millitary study. You can read the whole study they did as it's available in PDF format online.

I checked out the details on the Monstaliner site. I agree that the chunky rubber fillers are annoying but I found using a paint brush solved the issue as the large chunks would brush away. Let us know Tree Frog how the bedliner goes!

A note on rust converters. The only true way to remove rust 100% is with a media blaster, otherwise you are left with small pits that a wire wheel just can not get. This is where the rust converter comes in handy. I guess minor surface rust may not have pits but keep an eye open for them.

If you use a media blaster there is no reason to use rust converter. The difference with the POR
-15 rust converter (metal prep) is it actually scores the metals surface to allow product to adhere to the clear surface.

I have seen Chassis Saver paint being applied over some pretty heavy rust, I have never used it but if it actualy works I guess it woud save a ton of rust removal time. I honestly feel skeptical about the idea but who knows ?

Interesting thread.


New member
Wow thank you guys for the information. Big Bad Wolf what do you recommend for a media to blast with I have a friend who says to soda blast, however I have not personally done that.
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