Sounds killing me

updated

My profile! for clarification I bought the JK with the lift on it, I did not know it did not have adjustable control arms.

I plan on buying upper control to move the pinon up to correct the caster, My question all along was what could make that noise that I have on video. after looking at the lift I saw that it did not have adjustable control arms. which With all my reading and education I know if you lift a two door more than 3" you need after market drive shafts.

So i'm going to buy control arms and see what happens. if anyone can think of anything it might could be that would be great!
 
My profile! for clarification I bought the JK with the lift on it, I did not know it did not have adjustable control arms.

I plan on buying upper control to move the pinon up to correct the caster, My question all along was what could make that noise that I have on video. after looking at the lift I saw that it did not have adjustable control arms. which With all my reading and education I know if you lift a two door more than 3" you need after market drive shafts.

So i'm going to buy control arms and see what happens. if anyone can think of anything it might could be that would be great!

You can try taking the rear shaft off and driving your Jeep in 4 hi to check for noise.
 
I can try that this weekend really didn't think about that. I appreciate everyone's help I hope its something simple I have over looked.
 
When I first looked at your profile it said you had no drivetrain modifications. This is why I originally asked about your driveshafts. I wasn't concerned about your control arms.
 
Ok took off the rear drive shaft and no crazy loud sound. Could it be bearings? Or maybe the ring and pinion?

http://youtu.be/Do4a4D-th14

Is the noise only under load? I had a pinion bearing go bad and it would only make the noise above 25-30 mph and only when on the gas. It was so load sensitive that if I was using cruise control, you could make the sound quit for a second or two by tapping the (-) coast button for the cruise, taking the load off the rear pinion/drive train. Here's a link to a video I posted up. I would think if you've removed the rear shaft and the noise stopped, it's either u-joint or rear end bearing.

http://wayalife.com/showthread.php?t=14050
 
Is the noise only under load? I had a pinion bearing go bad and it would only make the noise above 25-30 mph and only when on the gas. It was so load sensitive that if I was using cruise control, you could make the sound quit for a second or two by tapping the (-) coast button for the cruise, taking the load off the rear pinion/drive train. Here's a link to a video I posted up. I would think if you've removed the rear shaft and the noise stopped, it's either u-joint or rear end bearing.

http://wayalife.com/showthread.php?t=14050

THAT'S IT!!!!!! same sound I have whining like crazy when your on the pedal let off and no noise!! now how hard is it to change??
 
THAT'S IT!!!!!! same sound I have whining like crazy when your on the pedal let off and no noise!! now how hard is it to change??

Well, I'm certainly not a mechanic but if it is the pinion bearing, the ring and pinion/carrier housing has to come out to change out the pinion bearing. Not something I would let anyone do unless they know what they're doing. My pinion shaft was burnt bad enough from the bearing that the shop installed a new rear gear set, ring and pinion. Hopefully others can confirm, I really don't know anything about diffs other than to stay out of them.
 
Thanks a ton I had been planning to change gears any way looks like it's gonna happen no matter what now.
 
Hijack here for a min if i may????
I have had some "clicking" from the front and finally got into my shop ..
Turns out there is play in the front shaft and leaking from the diff at the pinion.
He said the bearings are shot. Along with my axle joints.. So he quoted $500 for the job. This a decent deal?
Seems the breather tube came off the front diff while wheeling and sure mud and water got into and totally screwed everything.. Lesson learned now! :banghead:
And if this is the issue, and I'm paying for a new bearing, thinking I can pull the trigger and do both gears upgrades for the $ 1500 range with Yukon gears. I mean sense he'll be in there anyways.
I do plan on 35s next tire purschase from my 33s, so whats best. 4.56 or 4.88?
Mind you I only have a D30 up front.

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Hijack here for a min if i may????
I have had some "clicking" from the front and finally got into my shop ..
Turns out there is play in the front shaft and leaking from the diff at the pinion.
He said the bearings are shot. Along with my axle joints.. So he quoted $500 for the job. This a decent deal?
Seems the breather tube came off the front diff while wheeling and sure mud and water got into and totally screwed everything.. Lesson learned now! :banghead:
And if this is the issue, and I'm paying for a new bearing, thinking I can pull the trigger and do both gears upgrades for the $ 1500 range with Yukon gears. I mean sense he'll be in there anyways.
I do plan on 35s next tire purschase from my 33s, so whats best. 4.56 or 4.88?
Mind you I only have a D30 up front.

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I had a vibration and did not know it found out the hard way the rear drive shaft blew up. I had my gears changed front 4.10 to 5.13 at a shop he changed out everything. I have a 2010 jk with the 3.8 not sure what you have but you should look at a gear chart to see what would be goos for running 35's.
 
After talking in length with my shop guy. I'm looking at 4.88s which should be good for my 34s (295/70/17) now and the 35s to come.
Yea I have the 3.8 dog as well.
Should be a good balance. Going any more would make me nervous on a D30
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Also the idler pulleys tend to whine alot when the bearings are shot. I did one already and it helped, seems like the other is done as well. Just a thought.

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