Stuck Front E-Locker Trail Fix

Thanks for all the advice. I'll clean both front and rear with a bunch of brake cleaner and will run better fluid. Used a 80W-90 non synthetic previously and this time will run Lucas 75W-90 synthetic.
 
For those interested here are some pictures and video of the locker in action. First is when the diff is locked. Note the position of the plate.ImageUploadedByWAYALIFE1466565397.022705.jpg
Next is unlocked.
ImageUploadedByWAYALIFE1466565421.785110.jpg
I have a video of it locking and unlocking but I seem to be technically challenged uploading the video.
 
For those interested here are some pictures and video of the locker in action.
I have a video of it locking and unlocking but I seem to be technically challenged uploading the video.

Still really glad you got that thing fixed and didn't have to pull the axle. The pictures show the issue well.

For doing a video, you have to upload it to a media sharing site first, like youtube. Then you can add it by clicking the video icon here:

vid.jpg
 
Crap! The front locker still sticks in locked position. I drained both diffs, cleaned them real well, filled with new gear oil, drove around a bit to lube everything real good and then tested it and the damn thing still sticks in locked position. I tested it before putting the cover on and it seemed to work okay but that was with tires in the air and zero load. Jeep I almost 10 years old so no warranty. Any ideas before switching to ARBs? I would like to avoid that switch for a year.
 
Now that you know you can do it without taking the whole thing apart, how possible is it to run like that? You still have a working button for the rear, can throw on the front via the button if necessary, and when you get to the top of the hill you use a flathead screwdriver to pop it back again. A pain, but not unmanageable for a year I wouldn't think.
 
Crap! The front locker still sticks in locked position. I drained both diffs, cleaned them real well, filled with new gear oil, drove around a bit to lube everything real good and then tested it and the damn thing still sticks in locked position. I tested it before putting the cover on and it seemed to work okay but that was with tires in the air and zero load. Jeep I almost 10 years old so no warranty. Any ideas before switching to ARBs? I would like to avoid that switch for a year.

Now that you know you can do it without taking the whole thing apart, how possible is it to run like that? You still have a working button for the rear, can throw on the front via the button if necessary, and when you get to the top of the hill you use a flathead screwdriver to pop it back again. A pain, but not unmanageable for a year I wouldn't think.

That's what I would do. Now that you know how to manually disengage it, just do the screwdriver trick. Keep your hex socket and screwdriver at close reach. Being that you did all the cleaning, it's sounding like something in the locker mechanically has an issue.
 
Crap! The front locker still sticks in locked position. I drained both diffs, cleaned them real well, filled with new gear oil, drove around a bit to lube everything real good and then tested it and the damn thing still sticks in locked position. I tested it before putting the cover on and it seemed to work okay but that was with tires in the air and zero load. Jeep I almost 10 years old so no warranty. Any ideas before switching to ARBs? I would like to avoid that switch for a year.

Bummer, sorry to hear it didn't clear things up. I don't have any advice other than what's already been suggested. I wonder just how many of the OEM lockers fail like this. It must be pretty high percentage. Seems a shame that they aren't very reliable especially since lockers are only meant to be used for off-roading. One would think they'd be designed to handle a lot more.
 
Top Bottom