Stupid Question...JK Lifespan

rumblebee3

Caught the Bug
As stated above.. Use the proper Octane and do yourself a favor and get a tuner to optimize. Just my opinion. And we just bought our 2008 JKUR with a 190,000 miles on it.... It now has just a touch over 200,000.... And I am building the hell out of it right now! And it's going to be a daily driver with 37's and 5:13 gears. Just tore the heads off to do a simple head gasket job and you can still see the cross hatching in the cylinders! Everything runs fine and just pulled the pan as well to do a pan gasket and everything looks good on the bottom end.

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rumblebee3

Caught the Bug
Also wanted you to know that if you're running synthetic oil and changing it at 3,500 miles, you're wasting money there too!!! I have my Ram that I bought with 54,000 miles on it and it now has almost 250,000 miles and I have used Mobil 1 full synthetic and changed it anywhere from 8,000 to 10,000 miles at a time...alot of highway miles but I have flogged the hell out of this motor before many a time and it gets used.... I'm currently running 4:56 gears and 40 in mud Grapplers... but the motor is still running strong. Had to have the heads redone due to a screw-up on my part extracting a bolt and cylinders and everything else looked fine about a hundred thousand miles ago.

Furthermore they have done studies showing that you can run regular oil(not synthetic) up to 5,000 + even 8,000 Miles with ease and no oil break down.

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ibis9999

New member
Also wanted you to know that if you're running synthetic oil and changing it at 3,500 miles, you're wasting money there too!!! I have my Ram that I bought with 54,000 miles on it and it now has almost 250,000 miles and I have used Mobil 1 full synthetic and changed it anywhere from 8,000 to 10,000 miles at a time...alot of highway miles but I have flogged the hell out of this motor before many a time and it gets used.... I'm currently running 4:56 gears and 40 in mud Grapplers... but the motor is still running strong. Had to have the heads redone due to a screw-up on my part extracting a bolt and cylinders and everything else looked fine about a hundred thousand miles ago.

Furthermore they have done studies showing that you can run regular oil(not synthetic) up to 5,000 + even 8,000 Miles with ease and no oil break down.

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Thank you rumblebee3. I appreciate your advice.


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WranglerWilly83

New member
Your owners manual specifically states to use 87. It's what your motor really wants and it'll save your pocket book too.

As far as lifespan goes, my 2007 has almost 200,000 miles on it. The motor was holding up just fine before swapping it out back at about 115,000 miles. I was still running the original clutch too. I did go through a pilot bearing and 2 clutch slaves though and it did have an annoying popping out of first problem but I understand that's been fixed in newer JK's.

So 100% if I have a 6 speed 2015 Wrangler I should put ‘87?? I always put ‘93 in all my cars and Honestly it would feel weird putting ‘87 in. So there is NO plus side to using ‘93?


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BaddestCross

Active Member
So 100% if I have a 6 speed 2015 Wrangler I should put ‘87?? I always put ‘93 in all my cars and Honestly it would feel weird putting ‘87 in. So there is NO plus side to using ‘93?


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Not unless you're running a tune that requires it (ie: Superchips' 93). Otherwise save yourself the dough and put it towards a worthy upgrade to your Jeep. 🍻

--
Build Thread - Adventures of Fiona - https://wayalife.com/showthread.php?t=47407
 

monstrousmac

Caught the Bug
I have a 2010 JKU, It has 150,026 miles on it. I bought it with 2 miles on the odometer. This is all I have done to it so far:

1) I had a coil pack go bad at 147,000 miles, Cylinder 2 misfire - Code -- P0302. Cost 54 dollars for a new one at O'Riellys. 10 Minutes, changed myself.

2) Water Pump went bad at about 127,000 Miles. Cost was like 80 dollars at O'Rilleys. - 1 Hour to change myself.

3) Upper oil Pan Gasket started leaking at about 121,000 Miles, Cost was like 25 dollars at O'Rilleys. 1 Hour to change myself.

4) Clockspring went bad at about 98,000 miles, Dealer covered it under warranty.

Now the maintenance I do on it:

1) I religiously change the oil every 3,000 miles and I run Royal Purple 5w-20. I know probably overkill. Old habit from my grandfather that I just can't Kick.

2) I change Transmission fluid, filter and transfer case fluid every 60,000 miles.

3) Radiator complete flush every year.

4) Diff Fluids every 15,000 miles.

5) I run 87 Octane Gas

6) Change Air Filter as needed.

7) Changed Spark Plugs and Wires at 100,000 miles.
 

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Gbint

New member
I too am Anal when it comes to my JK maintenance. Nothing but royal purple all around and often. With the exception of T case. Running Chrysler trans oil as per manual. Here’s my take on Jeep though. Now bare in mind all of my primary vehicles are Japanese. So compared to my wife’s forerunners, and the Samurai I used for 24 years off road, jeeps suck. However....I’ve owned 12 of them and hope to own 12 more. There’s nothing else I’d rather drive than my JK. Well...maybe a JL.


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monstrousmac

Caught the Bug
I own quite a few wranglers and never had any issues other than normal wear and tear items. It also helps that I am pretty mechanically inclined. I believe if you keep up with schedule maintenance and use quality products, you will be surprised how long a vehicle will last. Just my .02 cents.
 
Anything that burns fuel is susceptible to carbon build, save your self the money and put in 87 what your engine likes, unless your running a super chips or tune their is no need and your burning money that could be used for future trips or upgrades. My 15 runs just like the first day i took it home and i change the oil every 5,000 and fluids like the manual says. I use royal purple for all my oil and fluids. Except for radiator and transmission.
 

TRLJNKY

New member
170k and mines still kicking. gutless pos 3.8 but still alive. my biggest fear is elecrical issues but so far so good. The JKU is a good and family platform and thats what got me hooked. i just plan on replacing shit as needed and running for as long as possible. Its my DD and see no end in sight. I am one that cant just see thowing down the $ for what they want in cars now days. I am old school I guess. Oh and as everyone else stated 87 octane and run all synthetic.

aka cavfighter
 

KICKROX

Member
170k and mines still kicking. gutless pos 3.8 but still alive. my biggest fear is elecrical issues but so far so good. The JKU is a good and family platform and thats what got me hooked. i just plan on replacing shit as needed and running for as long as possible. Its my DD and see no end in sight. I am one that cant just see thowing down the $ for what they want in cars now days. I am old school I guess. Oh and as everyone else stated 87 octane and run all synthetic.

aka cavfighter

And you wheel it like you stole it! 170K is impressive my friend. If I get 170K out of mine, I will have to consider it a good investment.
 
I spoke to a tech at the dealership. He told me that the 3.6 is susceptible to carbon build up. He said premium is a good idea.


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That’s BS. You’re better off using sea foam spray in the throttle body every so often to clean out carbon if need be. All the high octane gas does is keeps the engine from knocking or pinging because it has a much higher detonation temp, as others mentioned. Stick with 87 octane.

That said, my ‘07 has 167,000 miles and still runs great. I do have pinging every so often and run a can of sea foam spray through the intake which knocks it out for a while.

Learn how to do repairs yourself which will save a ton of money. I always trust my own work more than what most shops will do, especially with the wealth of knowledge in forums like this. You won’t find that with most other vehicles.


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jesse3638

Hooked
That’s BS. You’re better off using sea foam spray in the throttle body every so often to clean out carbon if need be. All the high octane gas does is keeps the engine from knocking or pinging because it has a much higher detonation temp, as others mentioned. Stick with 87 octane.

That said, my ‘07 has 167,000 miles and still runs great. I do have pinging every so often and run a can of sea foam spray through the intake which knocks it out for a while.

Learn how to do repairs yourself which will save a ton of money. I always trust my own work more than what most shops will do, especially with the wealth of knowledge in forums like this. You won’t find that with most other vehicles.


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What he said about doing your own work. My 06 Titan was 11 years old with 125k on it. I saved myself thousands by doing it myself. As previously mentioned Oreily has a great selection of parts including wix filters and spicer u-joints. Plus the more work you do the more familiar you become with your rig.

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Fuhaxian

New member
Before upgrading, my 2010 Jeep JK Rubicon lasted 189k miles and the engine and transmission were still going strong.

In that time that I had it, I've only had to replace the clutch, pivot fork, slave cylinder, upper head gasket, idler pulley, serpentine belt, a ABS sensor, u-joints, and spark plugs.

I only upgraded because there were things just wearing down such as the ball joints and the drive shaft was shot that just added on to a long list of other things. Also I had the annoying popping out of first gear issue,
 

Zstairlessone

New member
So 100% if I have a 6 speed 2015 Wrangler I should put ‘87?? I always put ‘93 in all my cars and Honestly it would feel weird putting ‘87 in. So there is NO plus side to using ‘93?


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I have an ‘08 and ‘10 from new and have only ever put 87 in them. As someone pointed out, unless you have a tuner you’re wasting $$ on premium gas


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notnalc68

That dude from Mississippi
He mentioned that the “Pentistar V6 was prone to it and using premium gas and synthetic oil was best” That’s what he told me. Have to be honest and say I’m not at all happy with them and I will never buy a car or service there again.


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Run 87 octane. Just buy a Tier One gasoline, like Chevron, Shell, Exxon, etc. Their fuels have cleaners added to them. I stopped running the cheapest gas I could find, when mine started running a little rough. I ran a few bottles of Lucas fuel system cleaner through it, and it began to run better.


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