Suspension Upgrades

[RMC2]

View attachment 208740 View attachment 208741
This was 1st week in June at Animas Forks ghost town close to Silvertown.
Sorry to side track your thread.

I have seen it about 10' deep on the side of a paved road in mid July in CO. I had an 83 year old throwing snowballs at me. I believe that was about 14000' elevation though. It was hard to believe.

 

[JSTJPN]

I have seen it about 10' deep on the side of a paved road in mid July in CO. I had an 83 year old throwing snowballs at me. I believe that was about 14000' elevation though. It was hard to believe.

That is crazy funny. Old man picking a snow ball fight. Lol

 

[JSTJPN]

Dave,
Just ditch it all and go long arm double throw down EVO all the way. ProRock 60s too.

I like the way the evo arms adjust on the Jeep, not that i have them or need them. I don't know if you have changed driveshafts yet, but should consider a 1350 front shaft in the mix too.

Spend that money your uncle is paying you. Your wife will only kill you once, ............ maybe only once.

You soo funny. And you are right. She would kill me. And maybe even twice. :sly::sly:

 

[brizon85]

For the drag link flip, I run an EVO kit but the AEV one works just as well. Whatever you get here, I would recommend that you have it welded in place after installation. As far as control arms go, I personally prefer Currie or EVO arms as they have Johnny Joints on both ends and allow for a greater degree of bind free flex. That being said, they will need to be maintained/greased. If moderate wheeling is all you do and don't come across a lot of flexing, you might want to consider arms with clevite bushings (bonded rubber like what you have factory) as they will remain quite and will be maintenance free. Companies like Full-Traction make a decent set but you do need to know that if you get into big flex, the bushings will blow sooner than later and replacing them is kind of a pain. Of course, there are companies that fall somewhere in between like Clayton who uses clevite bushings at the frame and Johnny Joints at the axle. This is a good compromise as well. I understand that the new Rock Krawler joints are nicer and quieter but I have no personal experience with them - only the old style ones and I wasn't too fond of them. Sorry for rambling - hope that helps.

I was wondering if the Evo Drag Link Flip kit comes with both joints or just one on the drag link. The reason I ask is because both ends on my current stock drag link need to be replaced. Also Does the track bar relocation bracket bolt on without welding? I will get it welded at some point in the future if that is the case I just need to be able to install the kit myself without welding.

 

[MurderedJK]

For the drag link flip, I run an EVO kit but the AEV one works just as well. Whatever you get here, I would recommend that you have it welded in place after installation. As far as control arms go, I personally prefer Currie or EVO arms as they have Johnny Joints on both ends and allow for a greater degree of bind free flex. That being said, they will need to be maintained/greased. If moderate wheeling is all you do and don't come across a lot of flexing, you might want to consider arms with clevite bushings (bonded rubber like what you have factory) as they will remain quite and will be maintenance free. Companies like Full-Traction make a decent set but you do need to know that if you get into big flex, the bushings will blow sooner than later and replacing them is kind of a pain. Of course, there are companies that fall somewhere in between like Clayton who uses clevite bushings at the frame and Johnny Joints at the axle. This is a good compromise as well. I understand that the new Rock Krawler joints are nicer and quieter but I have no personal experience with them - only the old style ones and I wasn't too fond of them. Sorry for rambling - hope that helps.[/QUOTE

This is why I love this forum. Even though I'm not in the same position as the OP, I appreciate the input you provided him. Good work