noroad
New member
No I don't believe so
Sent from my iPhone
Man that sucks i was think about that combo!!
No I don't believe so
Sent from my iPhone
Man that sucks i was think about that combo!!
it may have been mentioned already but i didn't spot it, you can run the TF hinge plate with the factory tire mount off the tailgate, this would remove the worry of the adjustable carrier cracking yet still give the tailgate the added strength it would need with the heavier rim and tire combo, the back spacing of the new rim will still allow the bigger tire to clear. this is what i'll be doing on mine. hope this helps. :thumb:
The only problem(s) I see with that set up is for 400 bucks, your tire is still low, and sticks out further because of the less back spacing on the rim. The factory carrier really isn't designed to carry a heavy spare and hold up if you hit a ledge or the ground on a big climb. The factory carrier really isn't heavy duty.
this is all true but if you take out all the weak points then you start doing the expensive and hard to fix damage further in, same as the plastic vs' metal flares dilema.
i'd rather break a bolt on part than do panel damage. but thats just my :twocents:
I think if you hit with a teraflex hinge, your still going to bend your gate. And possibly break your back window.
ARB makes a nice one handed bumper tire carrier. It basically has a plate that mounts to the tailgate and is connected to the tire carrier arm with a turnbuckle so when you open the tailgate the tire carrier pushes out. It's a solid design and a easy install. Really nice bumper. It even has a catch to keep it open if your on an incline. Just got done installing one on a buddies TJ and it is very nice!
WAYALIFE APP
it may have been mentioned already but i didn't spot it, you can run the TF hinge plate with the factory tire mount off the tailgate, this would remove the worry of the adjustable carrier cracking yet still give the tailgate the added strength it would need with the heavier rim and tire combo, the back spacing of the new rim will still allow the bigger tire to clear. this is what i'll be doing on mine. hope this helps. :thumb:
Sorry but this is entirely not true. Te stock hinges are not the problem with the tailgate failing. It is the spot welds on the inside that crack and break from the weight and jiggling of the tire. The hinge won't do anything to prevent that.
the TF hinge takes the tailgate out of the equation as the carrier is bolted to it and would be supported by the hinge and the latch, the tailgate basically would become the nuts for the bolts to thread into and the locking mechanism, all weight is carried by the TF hinge
if i'm wrong fair enough but that looks like how it was designed
the TF hinge takes the tailgate out of the equation as the carrier is bolted to it and would be supported by the hinge and the latch, the tailgate basically would become the nuts for the bolts to thread into and the locking mechanism, all weight is carried by the TF hinge
if i'm wrong fair enough but that looks like how it was designed
My stock tailgate opens and closes fine. I ran the daystar bump stops for the last 30,000 miles with 35's and just recently took off the spare because the spot welds started to break. The teraflex hinge wouldn't do anything to prevent the spot welds from breaking. The issue isn't in the hinge it's in the gate.
You obviously haven't drank enough kool aid. Either that, or you installed your factory tailgate wrong. :idontknow:
No, my mind isn't made up... I'm asking for suggestions, but I wasn't descriptive enough. I enjoy the clean look of just a tire on the back, without the "cradle" type carrier. It will be carrying a 37" tire.
My stock tailgate opens and closes fine. I ran the daystar bump stops for the last 30,000 miles with 35's and just recently took off the spare because the spot welds started to break. The teraflex hinge wouldn't do anything to prevent the spot welds from breaking. The issue isn't in the hinge it's in the gate.