The Adventures of Fiona - '08 JK Rubicon 2-Door

NOTE TO SELF: 114k - Transfer case and diff fluid change... Found one metal chip in rear diff

I changed the transfer case fluid and gear oil in the diffs. T-case oil was a little dark, but not horrible... No burnt smell. This is the first time I changed it, not sure when it was done last. Way overdue, but it looks like it was "okay."

Rear diff oil was pretty dark, a bit of fine metal shavings and one small chunk on the magnet. Really should pull the cover and check the gears.

Front diff oil wasn't bad at all. Still could see a hint of the original yellow color in the light. Had the gears changed last year about this time, so estimating about 24k on them. Need to do another oil change at 129k... Want to do a 15k interval.

Found exhaust brackets loose... Only thing holding the exhaust together were the rubber hangars. Tightened up.


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Build Thread - Adventures of Fiona - https://wayalife.com/showthread.php?t=47407
 
BaddestCross said:
NOTE TO SELF: 114k - Transfer case and diff fluid change... Found one metal chip in rear diff

I changed the transfer case fluid and gear oil in the diffs. T-case oil was a little dark, but not horrible... No burnt smell. This is the first time I changed it, not sure when it was done last. Way overdue, but it looks like it was "okay."

Rear diff oil was pretty dark, a bit of fine metal shavings and one small chunk on the magnet. Really should pull the cover and check the gears.

Front diff oil wasn't bad at all. Still could see a hint of the original yellow color in the light. Had the gears changed last year about this time, so estimating about 24k on them. Need to do another oil change at 129k... Want to do a 15k interval.

Found exhaust brackets loose... Only thing holding the exhaust together were the rubber hangars. Tightened up.


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Build Thread - Adventures of Fiona - https://wayalife.com/showthread.php?t=47407
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I drained my diff fluids a few weeks ago at ~14k mi to install new diff covers. Front fluid was honey colored, rear was black. No metal chips in either but the color of the rear fluid gave me a little concern.

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rubiDave said:
I drained my diff fluids a few weeks ago at ~14k mi to install new diff covers. Front fluid was honey colored, rear was black. No metal chips in either but the color of the rear fluid gave me a little concern.

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You do a lot of desert wheeling and highway driving in the summer, right? You may need to go to a higher weight oil.

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BaddestCross said:
You do a lot of desert wheeling and highway driving in the summer, right? You may need to go to a higher weight oil.

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Well its a 2014 with 14k miles. It had 8.2k when I bought it Sept 2017, so no not a lot of driving at all. Everything inside looked ok, just black oil in the back. I thought maybe had it picked up some water along the way (2, week long hunting trips to Monache with multiple crossings). Maybe it was just dirt in the pumpkin casting from the factory.

I'll change the fluid again at next oil change and see how it looks. I used 75w90 synthetic front & rear. Might try 75w140 oil in the rear next time

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rubiDave said:
Well its a 2014 with 14k miles. It had 8.2k when I bought it Sept 2017, so no not a lot of driving at all. Everything inside looked ok, just black oil in the back. I thought maybe had it picked up some water along the way (2, week long hunting trips to Monache with multiple crossings). Maybe it was just dirt in the pumpkin casting from the factory.

I'll change the fluid again at next oil change and see how it looks. I used 75w90 synthetic front & rear. Might try 75w140 oil in the rear next time

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That's probably normal. A lot of heat generated in the diff. If water got in there it would look milky.

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Build Thread - Adventures of Fiona - https://wayalife.com/showthread.php?t=47407
 
rubiDave said:
Well its a 2014 with 14k miles. It had 8.2k when I bought it Sept 2017, so no not a lot of driving at all. Everything inside looked ok, just black oil in the back. I thought maybe had it picked up some water along the way (2, week long hunting trips to Monache with multiple crossings). Maybe it was just dirt in the pumpkin casting from the factory.

I'll change the fluid again at next oil change and see how it looks. I used 75w90 synthetic front & rear. Might try 75w140 oil in the rear next time

Sent from my SM-G900V using WAYALIFE mobile app
Click to expand...

When I got my axles re geared the shop recommended non synthetic gear oil for the diffs. His explanation was there isn’t enough shock load available from synthetic. He also said both Dynatrac and Currie also recommend non synthetic for diff fluids. I kind of thought he was mistaken so I checked Dynatracs website. Sure enough no synthetics.

I just copied this from Dynatracs website
First, we recommend a high-quality GL-5 mineral-based gear oil (not synthetic). In moderate to cold climates, use SAE 85/90. If you live in a hot climate, use SAE 85/140.




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pop2tu said:
When I got my axles re geared the shop recommended non synthetic gear oil for the diffs. His explanation was there isn’t enough shock load available from synthetic. He also said both Dynatrac and Currie also recommend non synthetic for diff fluids. I kind of thought he was mistaken so I checked Dynatracs website. Sure enough no synthetics.

I just copied this from Dynatracs website
First, we recommend a high-quality GL-5 mineral-based gear oil (not synthetic). In moderate to cold climates, use SAE 85/90. If you live in a hot climate, use SAE 85/140.




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Yeah, Yukon (my gears) recommends synthetic 85/140. So I guess I'd say go with manufacture specs whatever they are.

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Build Thread - Adventures of Fiona - https://wayalife.com/showthread.php?t=47407
 
Several members have had problems with synthetic oil causing the ARB rubber locker seals to leak.
 
pop2tu said:
When I got my axles re geared the shop recommended non synthetic gear oil for the diffs. His explanation was there isn’t enough shock load available from synthetic. He also said both Dynatrac and Currie also recommend non synthetic for diff fluids. I kind of thought he was mistaken so I checked Dynatracs website. Sure enough no synthetics.

I just copied this from Dynatracs website
First, we recommend a high-quality GL-5 mineral-based gear oil (not synthetic). In moderate to cold climates, use SAE 85/90. If you live in a hot climate, use SAE 85/140.
Click to expand...

WJCO said:
Several members have had problems with synthetic oil causing the ARB rubber locker seals to leak.
Click to expand...

Hmm. I hadn't heard that about synthetic. Good to know, will probably be changing it out sooner than later then.


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wjtstudios said:
This is from ARB’s website and manual. It states to use synthetic, especially the more stress we put on the lockers.


https://www.arb.com.au/assets/air-lockers/6-01.pdf


Where did you find that we are not supposed to run synthetic?


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I think the only one I've heard grumble about it was Dynatrac. Something about the synthetic molecules being small enough to find their way through small cracks.

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BaddestCross said:
I think the only one I've heard grumble about it was Dynatrac. Something about the synthetic molecules being small enough to find their way through small cracks.

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I've got the stock rubicon locker. Jeep recommends Mopar brand fluids. For regular service they are not specific about synthtic or not - just 80w90 API GL-5. For towing 75w140 API GL-5 synthetic. I don't know who makes Mopar branded gear oil. I used Valvoline.

I'm not towing so I used the lighrer weight. I may change to the heavier weight this summer.

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rubiDave said:
I've got the stock rubicon locker. Jeep recommends Mopar brand fluids. For regular service they are not specific about synthtic or not - just 80w90 API GL-5. For towing 75w140 API GL-5 synthetic. I don't know who makes Mopar branded gear oil. I used Valvoline.

I'm not towing so I used the lighrer weight. I may change to the heavier weight this summer.

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I'm sure you'll be fine. 👍

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Build Thread - Adventures of Fiona - https://wayalife.com/showthread.php?t=47407
 
Part of the prep for the New Year run...

My son installed the EVO fender liners that have been hanging in my garage for months.
20190103_092714.jpg

I removed the broken light bar from the back of the Jeep and replaced it with a couple of single shooters. Didn't have time to wire up to the reverse lights, but that's the end game.
20190103_092832.jpg

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Build Thread - Adventures of Fiona - https://wayalife.com/showthread.php?t=47407
 
NOTE: 120k miles and change

The last few days were upper 70s to mid 80s and I noticed that Fiona was starting to run hot while idling.

Since I never flushed the cooling system after the emergency radiator replacement while in the New Year run, I figured it was time.

So today, my son and I dumped the water, flushed the system, and replaced the thermostat and radiator hoses. A lot of shit came out of the heater core, block, and radiator so hopefully clean lines, new stat, and fresh antifreeze will do the trick. If course, this weekend it's cold and overcast, so I won't know for sure until next week. 😂

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