Tie Rod & Drag Link Replacement

Gravedigger11

New member
I was wondering what the forums recommends for replacing the tie rod and drag link. I have read up a few tutorials including the project-jk one on how to do the removal and install. Since it seems pretty straight forward I think I am going to give it a try for myself and save myself about $200 on labor.

I like to wheel but I definitely keep it on the lighter side since my truck is my dd; so in reality I am looking for equipment that is stronger than oem and that I can put the miles on. I have looked into the synergy equipment but was wondering what else the forums recommended?

I have a 2.5 rough country bb lift and 34 inch tires, my jk also has about 128k miles on it.

Look into ruffstuff tie rod (179) and a synergy drag link (225) that's what I run and both are strong
 

WJCO

Meme King
Why is that because they are so prone to breaking?

My guess is cheap steel. There's been enough members post pictures of many TF breaks on critical metal components, I wouldn't take the risk, especially on steering components. No price is worth compromising safety.
 

tonytony9

New member
No, there are a few places making them like this. Mine is from fusion4x4

Just looked into their products it seems like a pretty good idea, may even be able to swing the 1 ton model with Currie tie rod ends!

What is the advantage of running the flip kit?
 

JKbrick

Active Member
Just looked into their products it seems like a pretty good idea, may even be able to swing the 1 ton model with Currie tie rod ends!

What is the advantage of running the flip kit?

The flip kit allows you to raise your track bar and drag link back closer to the factory angles the way they were engineered to best perform
 

JKbrick

Active Member
There are other options. Mine is 1.75" solid 7075 with the same ends currie uses (the are from rare parts). Cheaper and just as strong if not stronger.

This looks like the pic on fusion's website, their products look nice. Since they are out of Detroit I was going to look for them if I ever make it to Bundy Hill
 

tonytony9

New member
The flip kit allows you to raise your track bar and drag link back closer to the factory angles the way they were engineered to best perform

Ah okay that makes sense so it would then fix your steering geometry. If I can pick up a drag link flip kit for around the price of a non flipped drag link do you think it would be worth it?
 

JKbrick

Active Member
Ah okay that makes sense so it would then fix your steering geometry. If I can pick up a drag link flip kit for around the price of a non flipped drag link do you think it would be worth it?

Yes, but I believe you need a minimum 3.5" of lift and 3" bump stops for a flip kit to apply
 

tgoss

New member
I have synergy pieces for both and flipped the drag link with a raised currie track bar. I'm tickled.
 

Big Bad Wolf

New member
Synergy tie rod here. I have replaced both ends but they lasted a nice while. I have hit the tie rod very hard many times and it's held up. I'm even impressed with the paint/coating, my other components from Teraflex that I installed at the same time have all rusted to hell. I will note my Teraflex front and rear track bars have not broken.

I am discouraged to hear of any issues with Teraflex parts, they have always held up for me and I do wheel hard at times.

Those 7075 parts look nice!

I run the Dynatrac Ball joints, they are TOUGH! One hard wheeling session would wear out stock joints, I have yet to have an issue with the Dynatracs. My only complaint is if you live in moist environments, paint them or spray them with lubricant.
 

Gravedigger11

New member
For everything what did you end up spending? For the flipped drag and syn tie rod?

J ImageUploadedByWAYALIFE1470017090.797867.jpg
Just installed the synergy flipped drag link synergy raised track bar bracket and rancho heavy duty high steer knuckles. Synergy drag link (225) I think the bracket is (100-110) not sure I swapped the artec I ordered with a buddy who had their truss and couldn't use the bracket. Steering is tight and a lot better I run a ruff stuff tie rod which with the knuckles it hits the track bar bracket when turned all the way right since it is higher up. Regular knuckles it isn't an issue. Just a thought for any plans in the future.
 

Heavyhaul07

New member
Exactly how I felt, Rock krawler is the highest I would consider. People have also recommended going stock to me but I really do not want to be replacing it again in a year just from wear.

I have the rock krawler heavy duty tie rod I wouldn't recommend that pile of garbage to anyone. Less than 6 months and a bunch of play in the ends.
 

mdrums

New member
I've been looking into swapping out my stock the rod and track bar as well. I'm on a Rock Krawler 2.5" lift on 35's (for now).

I've been interested in the Steer Smarts Yeti system I've seen around on the net. This wasn't mentioned here but was wondering about this system? They mention it non-drill.

Are any other systems non drill?...just looking for si,pale and strong parts. Thanks!
 
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