Time for my Gladiator to Evolve: My '20 Billet Silver JT Rubicon Build

Picked up my JT from the dealership today. It was in for a day to have the steering box TSB done. First impression is it’s a night and day difference. The dead spot in the center that used to be approximately 2” of steering wheel movement is gone. No more wandering and constant steering inputs. I highly recommend anyone with a JL/JT by this TSB done.

Edit: Another note: I left the Synergy steering brace mostly installed. I removed the billet block with the zero fitting, installed the oem sector shaft but, and left the bracket instead installed. Dealership didn’t mention it at all and it’s still installed now that the work has been finished. Also had my 37” tires on as well. No issues.


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Great to hear good feedback. Dealership has not been helpful to me. Seems like nobody there knows what they are doing. I spoke with Jeep Wave and they are involved now. Hopefully soon mine will get resolved.


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Gladiator 1, Renegade 0. Had a lady pass me in a no passing zone and clip my driver side front corner when she cut me off. Basically PIT maneuvered herself off the road and head-on into a tree at 60mph. Driver got off with minor injuries. She then proceeded to lie to her insurance company about what happened. Thank goodness for dash cams.




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highoctane said:
Gladiator 1, Renegade 0. Had a lady pass me in a no passing zone and clip my driver side front corner when she cut me off. Basically PIT maneuvered herself off the road and head-on into a tree at 60mph. Driver got off with minor injuries. She then proceeded to lie to her insurance company about what happened. Thank goodness for dash cams.




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Glad both of you were ok. Sounds like the type of people who were so determined to get up this snow covered hill to get to the onramp of the freeway which was closed. They were sliding and then "playing bumper cars" as my wife described it.

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Haven’t posted in here in awhile. Just wrapped up installing another upgrade: Evo Mfg front sway bar links. These are much better than the cheapo links and bushings they included with my Evo Mfg Stage 2.5” 4+ suspension. Anodized aluminum bar and steel heim joints. Easy adjustable.

If you do pick up a set the instructions are incorrect. You’ll need at least a 33/64 drill bit. To oversize the hole on the end of your seat bar. A 1/2” bit didn’t really do anything besides remove some dirt and corrosion in the hole. The rod ends still wouldn’t fit. It was very snug even after using a 33/64 bit. If I had a 17/32” bit that likely would’ve been perfect.

I may or may not pick up the rear links. I really want to do something to relocate the oem sway bar or replace the whole thing with the Currie Antirock rear sway bar. I’ve bashed it on so many rocks I bent a sway bar link and tweaked the mount. It hangs way too low.

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highoctane said:
Good price too IMO. $120.


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That's cheaper than the JK version. I think those were $200 plus. I remember drilling them out but had no instructions. I used a 1/2" bit then just wallowed out the hole just enough until they fit...haha.

Edit: It was over $200 for both front and rear. $120 a set. I need to get some longer ones for my front. Since I installed my PR44 they are maxed out and I don't like it.

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jesse3638 said:
That's cheaper than the JK version. I think those were $200 plus. I remember drilling them out but had no instructions. I used a 1/2" bit then just wallowed out the hole just enough until they fit...haha.

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Yeah these are a bargain. I had those same hex bar Evo Mfg sway bar links installed with the Double Throwdown suspension on my ‘15 JKU. They were definitely much smaller diameter tha. These new ones.


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I swung by my local dealer today to schedule some service and they had a used JT Sport on the lot that was recently traded in. It was traded in with a JCR half height bad rack and cargo basket. Asked them if they’d sell it and they were all about it. Picked the whole thing up for $500 and swapped it over on the spot. I feel like the Jeep rides better with the extra weight in the back. Planning on hanging the spare tire under the top of the rack. I'd like to relocated the oem under bed spare tire cable up there if I can figure out a way to mount it.

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Got my tractor supply light bar and my spare tire strapped down up too for the time being. The light should help when I’m in the middle of nowhere at night working in a broken helicopter. The tire certainly won’t be staying up there. Too high for my liking.
 

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I like the way I think Brute has his secured underneath the rack and used a typical pickup truck under bed style spare tire hanger to raise it up under there
 
wjtstudios said:
I like the way I think Brute has his secured underneath the rack and used a typical pickup truck under bed style spare tire hanger to raise it up under there
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That’s pretty much why I want to do. Remove my own spare tire cable mechanism to under the rack that way I can just lay the spare in the bed and crank it up.
 
Got impatient and mocked up the spare tire to the rack using the oem spare tire cable. The straps are a backup for now. I need a piece of 3/16” steel to use as a doubler to reinforce the cargo basket floor to better distribute the load to the crossmembers.
 

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highoctane said:
Got impatient and mocked up the spare tire to the rack using the oem spare tire cable. The straps are a backup for now. I need a piece of 3/16” steel to use as a doubler to reinforce the cargo basket floor to better distribute the load to the crossmembers.
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You don’t sit around, do you
 
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