Uneven brake wear?

[sipafz]

In parts that are not solidly connected such as splined shafts, sliding pins, and etc. the constant vibration and moving of the two parts can wear faster due to anti seize. Anti seize was designed for parts that are solid connection such as a bolt. Grease was designed for parts that are moving.

This doesn't mean that it won't work in other applications like others have said here, however there is a proper tool for every job. A crescent will work but you should be using a wrench....

Chiming in with your 16th post - that's cool and btw welcome to WAL! I would like to see the data on how anti-seize which is basically grease mixed with soft metals wears hardened pins and bushings that have a boatload of clearance (guessing a good .005" to .010") and move maybe .050" when the brakes are applied and released. The only wear is when the pin and bushing rub against each other, because they are the same hardness. The soft metal in anti-seize helps keep the pin suspended or supported in the grease preventing hard metal to hard metal contact, friction and galling which causes the seized condition that we have been discussing.

 

[Skeeterbait]

Did you change out the hardware as well

I changed all the parts, bits and pieces that came with the new parts.

napa didnt was out of caliper rebuild kits. Everything looked good when i pulled it apart and it still had clean factory grease on the pins. I cleaned and relubed. This last weekend i was at 5k miles since breaks. Rotated tires and everything looked good. Rotors were nice and shiny, no groves or ridges. Pads were equal.

 

[WW_Svi]

Chiming in with your 16th post - that's cool and btw welcome to WAL! I would like to see the data on how anti-seize which is basically grease mixed with soft metals wears hardened pins and bushings that have a boatload of clearance (guessing a good .005" to .010") and move maybe .050" when the brakes are applied and released. The only wear is when the pin and bushing rub against each other, because they are the same hardness. The soft metal in anti-seize helps keep the pin suspended or supported in the grease preventing hard metal to hard metal contact, friction and galling which causes the seized condition that we have been discussing.

I don't have any hard data on hand. You can google the topic and find different discussions. Personally I have seen anti seize dry up due to heat and vibration and then caused premature wear in shafts. This was from testing ag. Equipment. I'm not saying that it won't work in this application but since brakes can get very hot it is possible that the certain brand someone uses may not hold up to the environment they are using it in. This is where synthetic based grease that has specifically been developed for this application works better (high temp ratings, etc). That is all I am trying to say. When someone's rig costs as much as a house, then what's the point of using $5 anti seize when you can get a tube of caliper specific grease for $10. It's a small cost to use the proper stuff when new rotors, pads, and possibly calipers are in the hundreds.

Just my 2 cents.

 

[JeepinLife]

I changed all the parts, bits and pieces that came with the new parts.

napa didnt was out of caliper rebuild kits. Everything looked good when i pulled it apart and it still had clean factory grease on the pins. I cleaned and relubed. This last weekend i was at 5k miles since breaks. Rotated tires and everything looked good. Rotors were nice and shiny, no groves or ridges. Pads were equal.

Ok. By hardware I mean the tin clips attached to the caliper bracket. When the ears of the pads and bracket rust it will push and pinch the ears in the hardware and wear down the hardware causing uneven wear. Like others said only use caliper grease and make sure not to get any in front of pin... I've seen that grease get trapped in the sleeve and when it heats up it pushes the pin out and about locks up the brakes.