Tigrcky
New member
Sleeves do nothing to strengthen the C's... gussets however do. But as davidonetontj said your axle will still bend.
Upgrading D30 to D44
- Thread starter K.D.C.H
- Start date
Sleeves do nothing to strengthen the C's... gussets however do. But as davidonetontj said your axle will still bend.
Lol this is apparently a loosing battle no matter what. I never said sleeves would strengthen the C. Nor did I say sleeves would make your housing un-bendable.
All I said was its a cheap way to beef your axle up so it will last longer. But I must be handicapped and have no clue what I'm talking about, probably because I just joined this forum and don't make 20 posts a day sharing the exact same belief as every one of you for the past 4 years.
For the record, you can break a PR60 if you try, even that can still bend.
These butthurt newbies always throw the same card. Hmm, wonder what will be next, the vet card or will he just go for the killshot and ask to have his account deleted?
Speeddmn
New member
But you did say it... Awkward....
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Sithwindu
Member
Idk, I saw Mel catch air bouncing on a rock garden going hella fast and have the whole kinetic weight of the jeep hit a big ass rock on his front pr44housing, hit that rock so hard that he bounced back off it, and continued to drive off as if that big ass rock was a marshmallow , and if I remember correctly, that housing was fine afterwards! That's impressive e for a pr44 alone!
Tigrcky
New member
Then he clearly broke it, because if you can break a PR60 then the PR44 without sleeves or gussets will snap when you look at it!
But I didnt. If you took the time to read, 200 bucks bought c gussets and sleeves. Which as a package, would resist bending the housing and Cs. Obviously it's not gonna give you pr44 or 60 performance, it was never implied.
My entire first comment was directed towards the fact that spending a small amount of cash to beef up a turdy30 would likely make it last longer until the OP could spend coin on a pr60.
And if you believe that you can't break a 60, you need to have your head examined. Anything is breakable, hell dynatrac made an 80, which wouldn't be necessary if a 60 was indestructible. However, as I need to make myself very clear apparently, breaking one would be quite the accomplishment, or mistake depending on your view, and is obviously not common. I'm also not bashing dynatrac and saying their stuff is not top quality, because it is. But anything is breakable.
Sleeves don't help the bending and if anything they make it worse. Most of the bending originates at the housing. By removing flexability in the tubes you actually make housing deflection worse (at lease when we are talking about the stock JK axles).
...Ask me how I know :brows:
...Ask me how I know :brows:
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Interesting way to look at it, I've never heard that point of view before, but I see where you're coming from. It would be interesting to see an action video of an axle taking some big hits
Sorry in advance, this has been brewing for some time…
Many look at the axle under their rig as a rigid assembly but it isn't, especially when the material is as thin as the stock tube and housing casting. The housing is cast and the material generally not as “plastic" as the tube material. I believe the common stock axle tube failure near the track bar mount is from material fatigue (flexing) from the track-bar mount and from material hardening from the welding of both the upper arm mount and track bar mount.
In the case of aftermarket housings they have a few things going for them that a "beefed" stock housing can never achieve: First, vastly stronger materials that are not pushed to plastic distortion nearly as much (given similar loads). Secondly, Even if they are pushed near the material's yield limit the material they are made of is better at handling it and returning to the memory position.
It is my opinion that the PR44 is strong enough for 95% of JKs running 37s. The issue I have with the PR44 is it still leaves us with inadequate ball-joints and a small unit bearing that is not capable of handling the moment loads of the larger tire. Dynatrac has one of these weaknesses covered with their vastly superior ball joints but we are still left with poor unit bearings.
If you do not want to replace the unit bearing often, or you are a fan of going fast and/or the skinny pedal, I think the 60 is for you. If you are okay with keeping it slow and are easy on the gas the PR44 makes more sense. An additional consideration that weighs heavy with me is turning radius. For most set-ups a 60 will not turn as sharply due to all the beef at the knuckles.
If we assume you can get a stock housing sleeved and trussed without bending it on install (which is a big assumption.) You still have an axle made of inferior material that is now less capable of returning to shape after going plastic.
FWIW: I purchased a JK for my wife with a sleeved axle and it was either bent at the sleeve install or shortly thereafter. So the "cheap insurance" forced me into looking for a not so cheap replacement housing. I got lucky and got some major love from another WAL member and am getting out of this error fairly cheap. I doubt all will be so lucky.
Again, I apologize for getting so wordy, but I’m tired of people chastising WAL members for trying to save people time and money by promoting a more effective solution to a problem.
Okay…. I’m off my soap box now :blush:
Many look at the axle under their rig as a rigid assembly but it isn't, especially when the material is as thin as the stock tube and housing casting. The housing is cast and the material generally not as “plastic" as the tube material. I believe the common stock axle tube failure near the track bar mount is from material fatigue (flexing) from the track-bar mount and from material hardening from the welding of both the upper arm mount and track bar mount.
In the case of aftermarket housings they have a few things going for them that a "beefed" stock housing can never achieve: First, vastly stronger materials that are not pushed to plastic distortion nearly as much (given similar loads). Secondly, Even if they are pushed near the material's yield limit the material they are made of is better at handling it and returning to the memory position.
It is my opinion that the PR44 is strong enough for 95% of JKs running 37s. The issue I have with the PR44 is it still leaves us with inadequate ball-joints and a small unit bearing that is not capable of handling the moment loads of the larger tire. Dynatrac has one of these weaknesses covered with their vastly superior ball joints but we are still left with poor unit bearings.
If you do not want to replace the unit bearing often, or you are a fan of going fast and/or the skinny pedal, I think the 60 is for you. If you are okay with keeping it slow and are easy on the gas the PR44 makes more sense. An additional consideration that weighs heavy with me is turning radius. For most set-ups a 60 will not turn as sharply due to all the beef at the knuckles.
If we assume you can get a stock housing sleeved and trussed without bending it on install (which is a big assumption.) You still have an axle made of inferior material that is now less capable of returning to shape after going plastic.
FWIW: I purchased a JK for my wife with a sleeved axle and it was either bent at the sleeve install or shortly thereafter. So the "cheap insurance" forced me into looking for a not so cheap replacement housing. I got lucky and got some major love from another WAL member and am getting out of this error fairly cheap. I doubt all will be so lucky.
Again, I apologize for getting so wordy, but I’m tired of people chastising WAL members for trying to save people time and money by promoting a more effective solution to a problem.
Okay…. I’m off my soap box now :blush:
Texas Nick
Caught the Bug
lol i like that :sly:
Why apologize for a well thought out informative post with some good info?
I've personally never heard that point of view before, and found it to be very interesting. I see exactly where you're coming from and I'm now intrigued to look into it more since I like to know the info and this kind of stuff interests me.
In my previous posts I was only speaking from experience (a friend snapped the long side tube in half, no where near the cast center section) as well as other information I've read. I very well may change my opinion based on what you've brought up, and if it weren't for you taking the time to inform others I would have left this discussion without learning anything other than that certain people should get off their high horse and contribute to the community rather than being a dick.