Weird issue while wheeling

jsukey

Member
True, 4.56 may be right where I want to go, but curious if I'm paying for gears that's a small jump, maybe 4.88 at least. Eventually Dana 60's would be pretty fantastic but that's some coin for those babies. I'd thought about doing a truss but not sure if I'd ever even need that, or chromoly axle shafts. I don't do anything crazy or serious enough to make those worth it. I good even balance between mild off roading and daily driver with the Dana 44's is where I'm aiming.

I totally understand. I've been toying with the notion of 60's. Just can't cough up that kind of change right now. There is a wedding ring fund in the works as we speak! If you're going to offroad...C gussets at the minumum never hurt with 35's. My front Rubi is sleeved, trussed, and gusseted, with LCA skids and RCV shafts. I upgraded my Rubi rear to an Auburn Ected with 35 spline chromoly shafts. I know that when I finally do bite that bullet, I'll be able to make money on my axle set, to help offset the cost of the 60's. If you think you're going to eventually take the 60 route, save your money and just go for it when you've saved enough. I probably would've done that from the beginning, but I got a really sweet deal on my Rubi 44's.
 

jsukey

Member
Had a similar situation with my ‘16 but without the pop and it was in 2wd. Wife was driving and stopped on a paved hill. When she started going again, she had the clutch pedal all the way out but it didn’t move so she gunned it [emoji849]. Smell was very strong but didn’t see any smoke. Ended up getting the clutch replaced under warranty being that it only had 1700 miles at the time..... aaaaand that was the last time I let her drive it. I agree that the stock clutch is garbage. Warranty repair wasn’t done right and it started clicking like hell with pedal movement and chattering at idle after the first warranty replacement. They ended up replacing it again, but also did the slave cylinder and throw out bearing the second time. If it goes out again I think I’m going with centerforce.


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Gotta love that crappy TOB! I did a Centerforce clutch 2k miles ago, and did the TOB at the same time. It sounds like someone is shaking a box of nerds beside my Jeep when it's idling in neutral. I took it back to the shop that did the clutch for me, but since I didn't buy the parts from them...they wouldn't warranty it. My fault there. I didn't want to wait around for them to order the parts.
 

bear996

Member
Sounds like you were going too fast.

Also some of you people need to learn how to drive a manual.

Or save the manuals for Cindy.

https://vimeo.com/38484266

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Could have been, I was "pretty sure" I was crawling on a flat surface after the rutted section when I switch to 4Hi but there's definitely a possibility I fubbed that up. And you're right, I do need to learn how to drive a manual, at least off road, got any tips?
 

bear996

Member
Had a similar situation with my ‘16 but without the pop and it was in 2wd. Wife was driving and stopped on a paved hill. When she started going again, she had the clutch pedal all the way out but it didn’t move so she gunned it [emoji849]. Smell was very strong but didn’t see any smoke. Ended up getting the clutch replaced under warranty being that it only had 1700 miles at the time..... aaaaand that was the last time I let her drive it. I agree that the stock clutch is garbage. Warranty repair wasn’t done right and it started clicking like hell with pedal movement and chattering at idle after the first warranty replacement. They ended up replacing it again, but also did the slave cylinder and throw out bearing the second time. If it goes out again I think I’m going with centerforce.


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app

I do think I'm going with Centerforce when I replace mine. I'm gonna run it til it dies then upgrade. It sucks the clutch is a weak point in the drive train, but also understandable for me at least since I have little to no experience with a manual in actual off road situations other back roads and forest roads/mountain driving.
 

bear996

Member
I totally understand. I've been toying with the notion of 60's. Just can't cough up that kind of change right now. There is a wedding ring fund in the works as we speak! If you're going to offroad...C gussets at the minumum never hurt with 35's. My front Rubi is sleeved, trussed, and gusseted, with LCA skids and RCV shafts. I upgraded my Rubi rear to an Auburn Ected with 35 spline chromoly shafts. I know that when I finally do bite that bullet, I'll be able to make money on my axle set, to help offset the cost of the 60's. If you think you're going to eventually take the 60 route, save your money and just go for it when you've saved enough. I probably would've done that from the beginning, but I got a really sweet deal on my Rubi 44's.

Congrats on being in the position to need a wedding ring fund! And congrats on adding to my list of upgrades, haha, the wife thanks you for that. I seriously doubt I'll ever go the 60 route unless I find an absolute steal on a set, but I'm confident someone would beat me to that deal. I'll beef up my 44's, and my drivetrain/suspension and be happy.
 

jsukey

Member
Congrats on being in the position to need a wedding ring fund! And congrats on adding to my list of upgrades, haha, the wife thanks you for that. I seriously doubt I'll ever go the 60 route unless I find an absolute steal on a set, but I'm confident someone would beat me to that deal. I'll beef up my 44's, and my drivetrain/suspension and be happy.

Haha, thanks buddy! I’ve been happy with my beefed up 44’s. Only issue I’ve had was with my rear end. The case bolts backed out of the Aurburn Ected locker, and ate the ring gear. It was just under 3 years after it had been built, but had only around 3k miles. I had bought the Extreme warranty for 3 years/15k miles from 4 Wheel Parts, so they covered everything. New bearings, gears, and updated/stronger Auburn locker. This just happened in October. It now has a new Extreme warranty on it! Definitely worth it!
 
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