Cousin Clyde
Hooked
Thanks for posting this.
After my recent cyl 1 injector failure, I was wondering if the light bulb principle would apply with the others…
I will be adding the other 5 to the top of my PM list. Did you use Mopar?
What was done to your rig this week?
- Thread starter 10frank9
- Start date
Thanks for posting this.
After my recent cyl 1 injector failure, I was wondering if the light bulb principle would apply with the others…
I will be adding the other 5 to the top of my PM list. Did you use Mopar?
jeeeep
Hooked
I used Bosch 62410, Made in the USA, new, from Napa Auto parts. Ordered them online, got 20% off and picked them up at the local store.
Beware, there is a seller on Amazon that claims to be Bosch, I originally ordered from them for 1/2 the price; the entire seller's page looks like Bosch but it's not Bosch at all, the injectors came from Wheeler Fleet, made in China.
Luckily, I was able to send them back for a refund without hassle.
if you order Mopar, they have a core charge so save and return the old injectors - I did not think to ask Napa if they had a core charge.
Jim SoG
Member
How did you get the gearing to show? is it a taser thing? I need to do this.....
Jim
bobfriesenhahn
Hooked
It can be enabled via Jeep settings. No Tazer required. Once I knew it was there, it just took a few minutes of playing around before I found the setting. But I did not take any notes.
Jim SoG
Member
Yep found it, awesome, thank you!!
Jim
jeeeep
Hooked
is this a gladiator only thing?
Do you need the 8.4" head unit to access that setting?
bobfriesenhahn
Hooked
All JLs have the ability to show the current gear. It is accessed via the buttons on the steering wheel which support screen configuration.
jeeeep
Hooked
ohh... yeah, I was thinking axle gear ratio
bobfriesenhahn
Hooked
The engine rpm to tire rpm ratio would be a nice thing to calculate. Given the axel ratio and transfer case gear/ratio this is all simple computations.
JamesWyatt
Caught the Bug
Because I hate myself and like self-torture, I installed four M.O.R.E Hide-a-Steps on my JL this weekend.
I have a spouse and visiting family that need steps to get in. Steps that hang down permanently were not an option, or why bother with a high clearance vehicle to start with? Sliders with a step level with the pinch seam were not an option since that means stepping up too far. These are the best compromise I could find since I can pull the pins and remove the step if I need the clearance when off roading without said passengers. With the step removed, the rest of the assembly is spring loaded and contracts up above the rock rails and out of the way.
I’ve had one of these on my Mojave before for just the passenger side, so it saved me some time knowing to ignore some of the directions. These are near impossible to install by simply loosening the rock rails and wiggling them into place. F-that. I did the following:
(Not intended to replace the instructions but to supplement, hence no install photos. My variation on the install may not make sense without having read the directions.)
Pre-assemble the steps by inserting the lower pin first, then fold over the top and slide in the second pin. Use some body leverage and be very careful. These springs are tight, and I imagine the contraption could easily break finger(s). Do this on a padded surface so you don’t scrape up the step. I did it inside on carpet.
Place two buckets or two floor jacks near either end of the rails about a foot away from the vehicle. Have something you can use as shims to get the height just right if needed. Remove the rail and set it on the buckets. Having it on the bucket makes putting on the steps easier and will make it easier to reinstall the rail. I used some Lego-style vehicle levelers as shims to get the height just right.
Optional: wrap the exposed powder coated parts with painters tape so you don’t scratch the powder coating if you drop it at any point during the install.
Slide the step assembly over the main rail arm. It will contact the pin. Release the pin that’s in the way but only pull it far enough so that the assembly can slip past the rail bracket — keep the pin in one side. Do not fully remove the pin or the finger-breaking trap will snap open. Slide the pin back in and across once the pedal assembly is past the bracket. Zip tie the assembly to the top of the bracket through the holes up top. Leave the zip tie pretty loose. Leave about an inch space between the bottom assembly bracket holes and the mounting studs on the rail. You need about an inch gap because the pinch seam needs to go between the rail and the step’s bottom bracket holes. Repeat for the second step if you’re installing two per side.
Slide the buckets and rail close to the pinch seam. Lift the rail up and put the rail studs back though the holes in the pinch seam. Make sure the step goes fully behind the pinch seam. With two steps, it can be a bit of a juggling act, and a second set of hands is helpful. With two steps, it also gets a bit heavy.
With the rail pushed fully into place, get under the vehicle and cut and remove the zip ties. Push the step toward the rail so that the step’s bottom bracket holes go onto the rail studs. Install the bottom rail bolt nuts loosly. Install the body bracket bolts loosely onto the locations other than the step location. You’ll not use the original body bolts for the step but rather the ones provided. To install the provided bolts that go into the body bracket, first find something to use as a block/shim to insert between the back of the step and the frame. A block of wood, rubber mallet head, something that’s about that size. To regain access to that body bolt location, you’ll have to fully pull out the bottom step pin and let the step hang down. (Without a brace between the step and the frame, the back of the step will snap back hard against the frame when the pin is pulled.) Pull the bottom pin and let the step hang loose. You can now access the top body bolt with a multi-tip screwdriver using the appropriate sized hex key that fits the provided body bolt replacement. It may take some finger trickery to get the washer and bolt up in there. Tighten but don’t overtighten. These are not very tight from the factory. Swing the petal back up and reinstall the bottom pin. Tighten the bolts on the rail studs. Remove the brace between the step and the frame. Repeat with second step if installing two per side. Tighten up all remaining rail bolts.
I have a spouse and visiting family that need steps to get in. Steps that hang down permanently were not an option, or why bother with a high clearance vehicle to start with? Sliders with a step level with the pinch seam were not an option since that means stepping up too far. These are the best compromise I could find since I can pull the pins and remove the step if I need the clearance when off roading without said passengers. With the step removed, the rest of the assembly is spring loaded and contracts up above the rock rails and out of the way.
I’ve had one of these on my Mojave before for just the passenger side, so it saved me some time knowing to ignore some of the directions. These are near impossible to install by simply loosening the rock rails and wiggling them into place. F-that. I did the following:
(Not intended to replace the instructions but to supplement, hence no install photos. My variation on the install may not make sense without having read the directions.)
Pre-assemble the steps by inserting the lower pin first, then fold over the top and slide in the second pin. Use some body leverage and be very careful. These springs are tight, and I imagine the contraption could easily break finger(s). Do this on a padded surface so you don’t scrape up the step. I did it inside on carpet.
Place two buckets or two floor jacks near either end of the rails about a foot away from the vehicle. Have something you can use as shims to get the height just right if needed. Remove the rail and set it on the buckets. Having it on the bucket makes putting on the steps easier and will make it easier to reinstall the rail. I used some Lego-style vehicle levelers as shims to get the height just right.
Optional: wrap the exposed powder coated parts with painters tape so you don’t scratch the powder coating if you drop it at any point during the install.
Slide the step assembly over the main rail arm. It will contact the pin. Release the pin that’s in the way but only pull it far enough so that the assembly can slip past the rail bracket — keep the pin in one side. Do not fully remove the pin or the finger-breaking trap will snap open. Slide the pin back in and across once the pedal assembly is past the bracket. Zip tie the assembly to the top of the bracket through the holes up top. Leave the zip tie pretty loose. Leave about an inch space between the bottom assembly bracket holes and the mounting studs on the rail. You need about an inch gap because the pinch seam needs to go between the rail and the step’s bottom bracket holes. Repeat for the second step if you’re installing two per side.
Slide the buckets and rail close to the pinch seam. Lift the rail up and put the rail studs back though the holes in the pinch seam. Make sure the step goes fully behind the pinch seam. With two steps, it can be a bit of a juggling act, and a second set of hands is helpful. With two steps, it also gets a bit heavy.
With the rail pushed fully into place, get under the vehicle and cut and remove the zip ties. Push the step toward the rail so that the step’s bottom bracket holes go onto the rail studs. Install the bottom rail bolt nuts loosly. Install the body bracket bolts loosely onto the locations other than the step location. You’ll not use the original body bolts for the step but rather the ones provided. To install the provided bolts that go into the body bracket, first find something to use as a block/shim to insert between the back of the step and the frame. A block of wood, rubber mallet head, something that’s about that size. To regain access to that body bolt location, you’ll have to fully pull out the bottom step pin and let the step hang down. (Without a brace between the step and the frame, the back of the step will snap back hard against the frame when the pin is pulled.) Pull the bottom pin and let the step hang loose. You can now access the top body bolt with a multi-tip screwdriver using the appropriate sized hex key that fits the provided body bolt replacement. It may take some finger trickery to get the washer and bolt up in there. Tighten but don’t overtighten. These are not very tight from the factory. Swing the petal back up and reinstall the bottom pin. Tighten the bolts on the rail studs. Remove the brace between the step and the frame. Repeat with second step if installing two per side. Tighten up all remaining rail bolts.
jeeeep
Hooked
I had the LOD sliders on my JLU and installed the RockSlide Engineering step sliders after double knee replacement with the notion the RSE would be temporary... they are still on the JLU, they do well on the trails I've been on and like them enough I don't see putting the LOD back on; my shorter passengers really appreciate them.
They don't hang that much lower than the stock rail, not enough to make a difference on the trails.
bobfriesenhahn
Hooked
My wife really appreciates the LOD medium-duty sliders on the Jeep. It allows her to get in without incurring permanent disability or calling an ambulance.
jeeeep
Hooked
I like those as well; they weren't available when I needed them
JamesWyatt
Caught the Bug
Got the Rokblokz mud flaps installed last night. I modified the rear wheel well plastic liner piece that was supposed to be removed so that it would work with the bracket and flaps. I thought it looked unfinished with the liner piece removed. It involved removing the liner piece and using a Dremel cutting wheel to remove a large square piece for the bracket frame bolts as well as a 3/4” by about 5” channel for the top of the flap to fit into.
I love how the KO2s drive on the highway and perform in certain types of snow, but they are hell for throwing gravel. BFG should bundle a set of these flaps with every set of KO2s, LOL.
Showing the l-shaped cut which removed a square piece of the liner for the bracket bolts to fit and the channel cut for the top of the flap to slide in:
I love how the KO2s drive on the highway and perform in certain types of snow, but they are hell for throwing gravel. BFG should bundle a set of these flaps with every set of KO2s, LOL.
Showing the l-shaped cut which removed a square piece of the liner for the bracket bolts to fit and the channel cut for the top of the flap to slide in:
JamesWyatt
Caught the Bug
I guess I should have saved all these for a single post since the thread title is what did you do to your Jeep this week, but anyway:
Installed the Bulletpoint Rubigrid for the 2024 w/phone mounts. Driver's side is the MagSafe charger for my iPhone 15 Pro, passenger side is the universal one that will work for my wife's iPhone 11 (she hates upgrading). I was concerned the one for the driver's side might be difficult to get positioned well due to the 2024 screen, but it fits right in between the screen and the dash instruments. I positioned the arms to be touching against the dash like most people do – the phone will jiggle even on paved roads otherwise.
I used an Anker 3.3' USB-C to USB-C charging cable, which was the exact right length to go behind the screen and down to the charging port below. The cable can't be seen behind the screen from the seated position.
Installed the Bulletpoint Rubigrid for the 2024 w/phone mounts. Driver's side is the MagSafe charger for my iPhone 15 Pro, passenger side is the universal one that will work for my wife's iPhone 11 (she hates upgrading). I was concerned the one for the driver's side might be difficult to get positioned well due to the 2024 screen, but it fits right in between the screen and the dash instruments. I positioned the arms to be touching against the dash like most people do – the phone will jiggle even on paved roads otherwise.
I used an Anker 3.3' USB-C to USB-C charging cable, which was the exact right length to go behind the screen and down to the charging port below. The cable can't be seen behind the screen from the seated position.
DirtHeadDavis
Hooked
I've had my Bulletpoint mount for a while now, still happy with it
kevman65
Hooked
Started putting the 3" lift kit in.
Front end is together minus two broken parts (will explain later), wheels back on and on the ground.
Still have to torque the front.
Rear is on jack stands, wheels and shocks off. Have all the control arms loose, have everything else off or loose except for hanging the rear calipers.
Back started giving me fits so I quit for the day rather than crawl on the ground.
Now, to explain the broken parts. I HAD a Synergy track bar and a Synergy steering stabilizer relocation kit. The Synergy bolt/TB reloc froze in the crush sleeve of the TB. Spun the flag nut off with no problem, bolt would not come out. Got a pry bar between end of bolt and axle tube and pried on the bolt as I spun it with the impact, NO JOY.
Finally said FUKIT, got out my Milwaukee Hackzall and proceeded to cut the bolt on each side of the TB. It ate a LOT of blades, looked it up and it's 4140 Heat Treated Chrom-Moly so that explains the difficulty in cutting.
Oh, forgot, lost the steering stabilizer too. It popped off the rubber bushing and crush sleeve. Had to cut the rubber off and walk the sleeve off with a pipe wrench.
For shits and giggles, I tried to drive the bolt out of the TB, it won't budge.
So, when it goes back together, the new bolt will have both shoulders slathered in anti-seize and hopefully won't have to go through it again.
No, no pictures, you all know what it looks like anyway. When I'm done I'll post up before and after for the comparison.
Front end is together minus two broken parts (will explain later), wheels back on and on the ground.
Still have to torque the front.
Rear is on jack stands, wheels and shocks off. Have all the control arms loose, have everything else off or loose except for hanging the rear calipers.
Back started giving me fits so I quit for the day rather than crawl on the ground.
Now, to explain the broken parts. I HAD a Synergy track bar and a Synergy steering stabilizer relocation kit. The Synergy bolt/TB reloc froze in the crush sleeve of the TB. Spun the flag nut off with no problem, bolt would not come out. Got a pry bar between end of bolt and axle tube and pried on the bolt as I spun it with the impact, NO JOY.
Finally said FUKIT, got out my Milwaukee Hackzall and proceeded to cut the bolt on each side of the TB. It ate a LOT of blades, looked it up and it's 4140 Heat Treated Chrom-Moly so that explains the difficulty in cutting.
Oh, forgot, lost the steering stabilizer too. It popped off the rubber bushing and crush sleeve. Had to cut the rubber off and walk the sleeve off with a pipe wrench.
For shits and giggles, I tried to drive the bolt out of the TB, it won't budge.
So, when it goes back together, the new bolt will have both shoulders slathered in anti-seize and hopefully won't have to go through it again.
No, no pictures, you all know what it looks like anyway. When I'm done I'll post up before and after for the comparison.