which lockers????

[Dynatrac]

I don't have enough info to be sure what a "kill switch" will do. The understanding I have, is that ESC is always working. The sensitivity is turned up or down by the computer depending on what position the T-case is in, vehicle speed, and whether the factory ESC defeat button has been pressed.

ABS and ESC share many of the same components in the car. However ABS function would not likely be affected by a Detroit Locker. The locker only engages under throttle up and torq-apply conditions. When the brakes are applied the Detroit would be essentially "disengaged". I say this carefully because depending on conditions a situation where the Detroit does affect braking could occur, but is not likely.

 

[suicideking]

ARB is a good choice, but there are other diff choices you can consider. First of all, you need a selectable locker in a JK axle. The ESC (Electronic Stability Control) system does not work well with automatic lockers, like the Detroit, and other ltd-slip devices.

I have a JK with a Detroit locker. The device works excellent off road, but you WILL get lots of ESC events, and kicked into limp mode with any automatic (non-selectable) device. Without a selectable locker, you will need to remember to hit the ESC button EVERY time you start the car. Trust me, you will forget, and find yourself in limp mode frequently.

The other selectable locker choices are the Eaton E-locker, and the OX Locker. I do not recommend ANY of the imported Chinese knockoff diff’s that are advertised. You get what you pay for, and even less on imported knockoff products.

Eaton just released a new and improved E-locker for the 44’s. E-Lockers use electric actuation. Can’t vouch for it yet, but looks promising. The older E-lockers had 2 spider gears, and we felt our customers needed more. Therefore we have not recommended them in the past. Dynatrac seriously stands behind our warranty, and advocates for our customers. We do not want to get stuck in the middle of a diff warranty dispute, and will only work with partners that take their warranties as serious as we do.

The OX device is very strong and easily rivals the ARB durability. It is made in USA, whereas the ARB is not. It can be had with electric actuation. We are getting good feedback from customers using this device. OX also has versions for our ProRock line of axles. The device includes their special diff cover, since that is where the connection takes place.

We have had very good success with ARB, and also have a good relationship with them. I have never had them decline any of the very few warranty claims through Dynatrac. We have installed thousands of ARB’s.

All selectable lockers have some kind of line, be it wire or airline. Properly routing the line is mission critical, and it amazes me how little thinking some folks put into this task. Every car is different. You have to think about all the ways the axle moves and anticipate interference with branches, rock, mud, etc. This is more easily achieved with wire than an airline, because of the size and flexibility of wire. Wire is also less susceptible to melting, but will melt and short out if it contacts exhaust system parts. Both wire and airline can be cut or chaffed into failure.

Great info there.

I'm curious about the Ox lockers -- I have a Rubi D44 front and had it sleeved, not knowing that would limit my locker choices in the future. Do you know if an Ox will work in a sleeved housing since I can't run a 35 spline shaft? My first choice would be an ARB (have one in the rear), but that would require me to replace my housing since it would need the 35 spline shaft.

 

[David1tontj]

I also had a question and don't want to start a new thread..as it pertains. In my old Toyota Tacoma I use to have the lockable hubs that locked the front axle. Do they sell this type of set up for jeeps as well? Or is this kind of an old technology? They seemed really bomb proof and probably a cheap alternative to adding a locker system? And if I remember correctly the rear was always locked? What system would that be compared too these days for the JK? Any thoughts?

Locking hubs are not the same as a locking differential. The lockers that we are talking about are in the "pumpkin" of the axle and make it so that each tire on that axle spins the same. Each axle shaft goes from the locker to the hub, and by locking the hub, you are basically locking the wheel to the axle shaft.


The newer rigs that do not have hubs turn their entire front drivetrain the entire time they are on the road, while if you have hubs, you can disengage your front end so it's not getting unnecessary wear and decreasing fuel mileage.


My ride- 2001 power wheel, 11" plastic tires, upgraded battery, boat sides, custom bumpers, tow hooks, new paint.

 

[machinegunmedic]

Thank you. This helps with my decision

 

[JK_Dave]

Eaton just released a new and improved E-locker for the 44’s. E-Lockers use electric actuation. Can’t vouch for it yet, but looks promising. The older E-lockers had 2 spider gears, and we felt our customers needed more. Therefore we have not recommended them in the past.

Dynatrac, is this the 2 spider gear setup you were talking about?



I couldn't find a picture of the new and improved version, but I'm assuming it would have 4 rather than 2 spider gears in it.

Thanks

 

[TheDuff]

Dynatrac, is this the 2 spider gear setup you were talking about?

View attachment 71165

I couldn't find a picture of the new and improved version, but I'm assuming it would have 4 rather than 2 spider gears in it.

Thanks

Here ya go

Sent from my LG-D800 using WAYALIFE mobile app

 

[JK_Dave]

If I put a Detroit locker in the front axle only, it's only engaged when I'm in 4WD correct? Then adding a selectable locker in the rear gives the advantages mentioned before of being able to turn it on or off when needed. It sounds like the only disadvantage of the Detroit in the front is that it might make steering more difficult when under power and trying to steer at the same time. Is that a fair statement?

 

[1BAMFR]

If I put a Detroit locker in the front axle only, it's only engaged when I'm in 4WD correct? Then adding a selectable locker in the rear gives the advantages mentioned before of being able to turn it on or off when needed. It sounds like the only disadvantage of the Detroit in the front is that it might make steering more difficult when under power and trying to steer at the same time. Is that a fair statement?

This is a really good question. ..

 

[suicideking]

If I put a Detroit locker in the front axle only, it's only engaged when I'm in 4WD correct? Then adding a selectable locker in the rear gives the advantages mentioned before of being able to turn it on or off when needed. It sounds like the only disadvantage of the Detroit in the front is that it might make steering more difficult when under power and trying to steer at the same time. Is that a fair statement?

This just came up on another forum -- It will only engage in 4WD, will not engage in 2WD.

This might be an option for me when if my front Rubi locker stops working.

 

[1BAMFR]

This is just my opinion based off my experiences...In a lot of situations you will not want your front locked so you can steer. Having a selectable locker in the front is your best bet. If you were constantly locked up front I don't think the driver would like it. The rear constantly locked would be fine.

 

[JK_Dave]

This just came up on another forum -- It will only engage in 4WD, will not engage in 2WD.

This might be an option for me when if my front Rubi locker stops working.

Ok, that's what I thought. Just wanted to make sure I didn't confuse it. Thanks

This is just my opinion based off my experiences...In a lot of situations you will not want your front locked so you can steer. Having a selectable locker in the front is your best bet. If you were constantly locked up front I don't think the driver would like it. The rear constantly locked would be fine.

I can see myself upgrading my rear locker a whole lot sooner than the front. Once I put on 37's the stock Rubicon locker has a limited life. If I get to the point where I can't get through something with 4WD Lo and the rear locked, I'd consider doing a front locker and PSC steering at the same time. I'd bet that's why you don't hear of guys on 40's complaining about poor steering when the front's locked.

 

[AZDIESELPIG]

ARB is a good choice, but there are other diff choices you can consider. First of all, you need a selectable locker in a JK axle. The ESC (Electronic Stability Control) system does not work well with automatic lockers, like the Detroit, and other ltd-slip devices.

I have a JK with a Detroit locker. The device works excellent off road, but you WILL get lots of ESC events, and kicked into limp mode with any automatic (non-selectable) device. Without a selectable locker, you will need to remember to hit the ESC button EVERY time you start the car. Trust me, you will forget, and find yourself in limp mode frequently.

The other selectable locker choices are the Eaton E-locker, and the OX Locker. I do not recommend ANY of the imported Chinese knockoff diff’s that are advertised. You get what you pay for, and even less on imported knockoff products.

Eaton just released a new and improved E-locker for the 44’s. E-Lockers use electric actuation. Can’t vouch for it yet, but looks promising. The older E-lockers had 2 spider gears, and we felt our customers needed more. Therefore we have not recommended them in the past. Dynatrac seriously stands behind our warranty, and advocates for our customers. We do not want to get stuck in the middle of a diff warranty dispute, and will only work with partners that take their warranties as serious as we do.

The OX device is very strong and easily rivals the ARB durability. It is made in USA, whereas the ARB is not. It can be had with electric actuation. We are getting good feedback from customers using this device. OX also has versions for our ProRock line of axles. The device includes their special diff cover, since that is where the connection takes place.

We have had very good success with ARB, and also have a good relationship with them. I have never had them decline any of the very few warranty claims through Dynatrac. We have installed thousands of ARB’s.

All selectable lockers have some kind of line, be it wire or airline. Properly routing the line is mission critical, and it amazes me how little thinking some folks put into this task. Every car is different. You have to think about all the ways the axle moves and anticipate interference with branches, rock, mud, etc. This is more easily achieved with wire than an airline, because of the size and flexibility of wire. Wire is also less susceptible to melting, but will melt and short out if it contacts exhaust system parts. Both wire and airline can be cut or chaffed into failure.

Two weeks ago I regeared to 5.13's and put a Grizzly Locker in the rear(2013 JK). The locker worked great off road but then I started getting transmission errors(p0733) and randomly getting put in limp mode. Last night I came across some threads about auto lockers and the 2012 and newer Jks.

The shop that did the work has offered to switch the grizzly for Eatons E Locker.

It was suggested that disabling the traction control would also be a fix. Have you heard if that has worked?

 

[Northridge4x4]

Two weeks ago I regeared to 5.13's and put a Grizzly Locker in the rear(2013 JK). The locker worked great off road but then I started getting transmission errors(p0733) and randomly getting put in limp mode. Last night I came across some threads about auto lockers and the 2012 and newer Jks.

The shop that did the work has offered to switch the grizzly for Eatons E Locker.

It was suggested that disabling the traction control would also be a fix. Have you heard if that has worked?

In 2012 and Newer jeeps you have to go to a selectable or the Jeep will go into limp mode. I wouldn't disable anything .

 

[AZDIESELPIG]

In 2012 and Newer jeeps you have to go to a selectable or the Jeep will go into limp mode. I wouldn't disable anything .

Mine doesnt do it sll the time. Right now I have almost gone 7 days and no issues. It should rear it ugly head shortly tho :idontknow:

The shop that installed it is a vrey good shop, I am disapponited they werent aware of this as its been an issue since the 2012's came out.

Looks like on top of the $1600.00 for gears and locker, I am going to soend another $640.00.

 

[Angus]

ok, thought of auto locks gone. haha thanks guys

 

[AZDIESELPIG]

ok, thought of auto locks gone. haha thanks guys

You could do an auto locker in the front, as it would only engage in 4wd. The rear is a big NO! I am having the grizzly locker taken out Thursday and replaced with an Eaton locker.