Anyone have the LOD Destroyer Rear Bumper w/ Tire Carrier?

[Sharkey]

Dang. Yeah, that'd suck. Thanks for the input Sharkey.

Here is a pic of the old broken plate and the "new and improved" one LoD sent him. This was with a 35" tire, no trail rack, and no gas cans or anything else.



Like I said, if you go the pin route, make sure the pin is going into something very strong.

 

[GraniteCrystal]

Here is a pic of the old broken plate and the "new and improved" one LoD sent him. This was with a 35" tire, no trail rack, and no gas cans or anything else.

View attachment 245097

Like I said, if you go the pin route, make sure the pin is going into something very strong.

I'm noticing a trend here where LoD likes to put two holes very close to each other. Had a similar situation on the new bumper.

Thanks, I'll keep all this in mind.

 

[GraniteCrystal]

Seems like this new idea may work. I put a pencil on the arm to see where it'd end up. Thinking two positions: one at 90deg and one not quite at 180deg.

90deg:




Not quite 180deg:




View from top of the path it'd take:


Also found out that with the tire on, it actually stops before hitting the corner...by hitting the fender, so not much better.

 

[GraniteCrystal]

Some more info...

These holes don't work for a CB antenna. LoD says they're meant for 3rd brake light. You have to buy a bracket for the antenna.





Never going back to factory 3rd brake light so may just drill out one of those holes and use as CB mount.

Also, they suggest just leaving these guys on.



That bugs the crap out of me though, so looks like I'll be buying some rubber grommets to fill the holes left when I pull them out. That's a cheap part that would've been really nice for them to include.

 

[Rubicon310]

Some more info...

These holes don't work for a CB antenna. LoD says they're meant for 3rd brake light. You have to buy a bracket for the antenna.

View attachment 245110

View attachment 245111

Never going back to factory 3rd brake light so may just drill out one of those holes and use as CB mount.

Also, they suggest just leaving these guys on.

View attachment 245115

That bugs the crap out of me though, so looks like I'll be buying some rubber grommets to fill the holes left when I pull them out. That's a cheap part that would've been really nice for them to include.

Agreed! I would of also paid extra to have the weld in pull pins as part of the bumper. The fact that there isn't any stopping point other than on the jeep body or fender sucks!


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[WJCO]

I originally built mine for the issue that you had. It would hit the tail light. So I welded a stop to fix that. But then the issue was that on any incline, I had to hold the carrier with one hand while opening the hatch, it was a pain in the ass. Then after the hatch was open, it was a real pain in the ass because it would swing back and hit me in the ass. Then I did the pop pin and love it, solves all problems.

As Sharkey said, make sure it goes in solid, even if you have to drill the hole slightly bigger than the pin.

One issue I see with drilling 2 holes is that if you go to the farther hole and lock it in place to get stuff out of the Jeep, when you pull the pin to close the carrier, it will catch the closer hole on the way back making you have to pull it again. Just one more step. Not as hands free.

 

[Sharkey]

Arguably a total waste of money for a non-functioning item, but check out Vector UFO's to fill the holes from OEM tire isolator. They look great. I had them on the hood of my '09.

 

[GraniteCrystal]

Arguably a total waste of money for a non-functioning item, but check out Vector UFO's to fill the holes from OEM tire isolator. They look great. I had them on the hood of my '09.

Those came to mind for me as well. I've devised a much cheaper alternative. Details will be forthcoming. Working on it in garage now.

One issue I see with drilling 2 holes is that if you go to the farther hole and lock it in place to get stuff out of the Jeep, when you pull the pin to close the carrier, it will catch the closer hole on the way back making you have to pull it again. Just one more step. Not as hands free.

Yeah, good point. The use case for two holes is a little weak anyway. One it is.

 

[GraniteCrystal]

Arguably a total waste of money for a non-functioning item, but check out Vector UFO's to fill the holes from OEM tire isolator. They look great. I had them on the hood of my '09.

Previously mentioned DIY solution:

http://wayalife.com/showthread.php?p=852864

 

[FredBMOC]

GraniteCrystal, Jeep is looking great!

I also have the LOD destroyer front and rear bumper arriving any day. I asked them to send mine with blacked out logos so I think they are making me suffer for it ;-)
Regarding the issue you are having, below is a copied quote from LOD on another forum replying to this very question but please do keep working on a solution as I may "borrow" your fix for my bumper ;-) :

" From LOD: Hey guys, the destroyer tire carrier is linked to the door, so the door keeps the tire carrier from opening too far and hitting the body, pretty simple. The reason we do not put a lock system on it to hold it open is because people forget on the door linked systems that its locked and can figure out why it won't close and start shoving on the door trying to close it, and with all that leverage of the tire carrier and door it damages the locking system. On a door linked system with a lock you have to walk around the door to the passenger side just to release it and people often forget especially if someone else is getting in the back of the Jeep, they can't see the lock and start yanking on the tire carrier damaging the locking mechanism. We have learned this from much experience, so the Door linked tire carriers that open with the rear door will never have a locking mechanism on them for that reason. Hopefully this makes sense, let us know if you have any questions and we will do our best to answer them."

Anyone else have issues with it swinging open and hitting the corners? Already put a little dent in mine and thankfully it didn't have the weight of the tire when it did so.

View attachment 245042

 

[Edwrds]

Agreed! I would of also paid extra to have the weld in pull pins as part of the bumper. The fact that there isn't any stopping point other than on the jeep body or fender sucks!


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This is the plug kit I got from Full Metal Fabworks.



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[MR.Ty]

That copy and paste LoD explanation for not including a pin to keep it open makes sense. Right now, I cannot imagine a scenario where you'd have it disconnected on the trail. At home, when removing or adding their attachments it makes sense and at least there you can put a towel or something to protect the body and fender.

 

[WJCO]

I agree from LOD's point of view. I didn't think that you would have to walk all the way around the tailgate to deal with it. Wonder if you could just weld an upright stop onto the bumper that the hinged part would rest against, no fastener nor pin, just a stop that sticks up as a resting point.

 

[notnalc68]

I agree from LOD's point of view. I didn't think that you would have to walk all the way around the tailgate to deal with it. Wonder if you could just weld an upright stop onto the bumper that the hinged part would rest against, no fastener nor pin, just a stop that sticks up as a resting point.

Yep, and you wouldn't believe how stupid some people can be, until you work for the public.


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[GraniteCrystal]

GraniteCrystal, Jeep is looking great!

I also have the LOD destroyer front and rear bumper arriving any day. I asked them to send mine with blacked out logos so I think they are making me suffer for it ;-)
Regarding the issue you are having, below is a copied quote from LOD on another forum replying to this very question but please do keep working on a solution as I may "borrow" your fix for my bumper ;-) :

" From LOD: Hey guys, the destroyer tire carrier is linked to the door, so the door keeps the tire carrier from opening too far and hitting the body, pretty simple. The reason we do not put a lock system on it to hold it open is because people forget on the door linked systems that its locked and can figure out why it won't close and start shoving on the door trying to close it, and with all that leverage of the tire carrier and door it damages the locking system. On a door linked system with a lock you have to walk around the door to the passenger side just to release it and people often forget especially if someone else is getting in the back of the Jeep, they can't see the lock and start yanking on the tire carrier damaging the locking mechanism. We have learned this from much experience, so the Door linked tire carriers that open with the rear door will never have a locking mechanism on them for that reason. Hopefully this makes sense, let us know if you have any questions and we will do our best to answer them."

Thanks for posting Fred. Kind of makes sense. Not sure I'm fully satisfied with it though. I'll need to look at bumper to verify but pretty sure I can just put the hole in the bumper in such a position that the pin never slides in it while the carrier is attached to the door. Remember, the door only goes so far before stopping. The carrier goes all the way around. Just need to put the hole far enough around that it's just a fail safe for when the carrier is separated from the door and swinging too far around.

 

[LōD Offroad]

Some wear is normal for the metal version but it is only a small amount while it "seats" itself into position. If it ever fails or breaks, let us know, send us a picture and we will work with you on taking care of the problem

I'm a little concerned about the metal on metal contact the latch plate and the striker plate make. After running my tire carrier for just one week, I've noticed some wearing down of the metal bar. Is this something I should be worried about? I've noticed the new bumpers do not make the metal to metal contact and now come with a white plastic type of bushing that makes contact with this plate. Suggestions? I might contact LoD and ask them to sell me the white new puck. View attachment 244771 View attachment 244772


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[DeJkUnlimited]

Thanks for posting Fred. Kind of makes sense. Not sure I'm fully satisfied with it though. I'll need to look at bumper to verify but pretty sure I can just put the hole in the bumper in such a position that the pin never slides in it while the carrier is attached to the door. Remember, the door only goes so far before stopping. The carrier goes all the way around. Just need to put the hole far enough around that it's just a fail safe for when the carrier is separated from the door and swinging too far around.

If you went with this approach would the pin just scrape along the bumper damaging the finish until the spring mechanism engages the hole? What if you drilled a hole on the backside of the carrier arm and installed a 3/4" long bolt through the underside of the bumper. It would only need to protrude an extra 1/2" or so beyond the bottom edge of the carrier to do the trick and would basically be a fixed safety. You could then cover the threads with some kind of plastic or rubber cover to clean up the appearance and protect the powder coat on the arm if it were to ever hit it.

 

[Rubicon310]

I'm going to add one of these to my bumper on the passenger side. I just need to find one with a thicker bolt that won't snap if the bumper rams it too hard.


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[GraniteCrystal]

If you went with this approach would the pin just scrape along the bumper damaging the finish until the spring mechanism engages the hole? What if you drilled a hole on the backside of the carrier arm and installed a 3/4" long bolt through the underside of the bumper. It would only need to protrude an extra 1/2" or so beyond the bottom edge of the carrier to do the trick and would basically be a fixed safety. You could then cover the threads with some kind of plastic or rubber cover to clean up the appearance and protect the powder coat on the arm if it were to ever hit it.

Basically what these would do? (see below)

I'm going to add one of these to my bumper on the passenger side. I just need to find one with a thicker bolt that won't snap if the bumper rams it too hard. View attachment 245196


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I like this. Saves me from having to get something welded on and still serves the purpose of preventing damage to side of Jeep. Added benefit that it wouldn't scrape off powdercoat as DeJkUnlimited points out.

 

[WJCO]

Just a heads up. I would recommend a hard plastic or strong polyurethane. Cheap rubber doesn't last long on tire carriers when metal rubs against it. I'll try to get some pics later, I've had to re-do several parts on mine. With that being said, for the purpose of a stop, it will likely last longer than rubber being somewhere where the tire carrier constantly touches it. Also keep in mind ambient elements and exposure to it on a regular basis.