Rock Krawler rear suspension 1" "Stretch"

desertrunner · Mar 24, 2015

So i just got done doing a lot of dialing in on my front suspension and since im trying to do it right (this time :doh

its time to move on to the rear and see what kinda damage control needs to be done. First things first i have a RK 3.5 X-Factor installed almost 3 years ago. I have read quite a few things on this forum about how the 1" longer control arms is just a recipe for complications. Upon first inspection of my rear suspension the pics below show what i found. Just wondering how i should go about getting my rear suspension dialed in like i just got my front.

Sway bar bracket bolt sheared off, im sure that is install error on my part from drilling new holes and moving it back an inch

Rear track bar bracket slightly contacts shock (bilstein 5100)

Track bar bracket contacts bump stop (dont think that one is a big deal since it just chips away at the rubber)

The coils bow way more than i would like to see

Also i rub really really bad on my rear LOD sig series rear bumper. trimming the pinch seam and rubi rails is easy but a LOD bumper not so much haha and i am about to pick me up a new set of 37s i dont wanna waste tread on my rear bumper

My guess is to pull the arms and shorten them up by an inch if they will shorten that much. Pull the coils and get those shims out. My concerns are the sway bar and track bar on where they need to go if i shorten up those arms. Im not sure how the RK rear track bar bracket and adjustable rear track bar will work with moving the axle forward. Money is tight so im looking for the freeist option haha but if it comes down to buying a new track bar bracket thats not a big deal.

olram30 · Mar 24, 2015

Easiest would be to put your factory arms back on

Ah2014jk · Mar 24, 2015

Well I know this isn't gonna answer anything for you but I have the other problem. With my 40s I now run the poison spyder rocker knockers so need the axle back a little it's never ending

I agree and putting your factory back might be easiest.

desertrunner · Mar 24, 2015

olram30 said:
Easiest would be to put your factory arms back on

Ah2014jk said:
Well I know this isn't gonna answer anything for you but I have the other problem. With my 40s I now run the poison spyder rocker knockers so need the axle back a little it's never ending

I agree and putting your factory back might be easiest.

and there is the kicker.... i no longer have any of my stock suspension parts...

will the RK arms not shorten up enough to put the axle where it needs to go? i guess i could rip it apart and try but hoping so see if anyone else has done it first before i try.

desertrunner · Mar 24, 2015

im thinking if i keep the lowers where they are at and shorten the uppers as much as they will go that could help the coil bow issue, doesnt fix my rubbing on rear bumper though

what does the evo enforcer run for rear arms?

olram30 · Mar 24, 2015

desertrunner said:
im thinking if i keep the lowers where they are at and shorten the uppers as much as they will go that could help the coil bow issue, doesnt fix my rubbing on rear bumper though

what does the evo enforcer run for rear arms?

Factory rear arms. Look at crown uppers and lowers for factory replacement or maybe some Currie arms, they are factory length and Johnny joints on both ends.

desertrunner · Mar 24, 2015

olram30 said:
Factory rear arms. Look at crown uppers and lowers for factory replacement or maybe some Currie arms, they are factory length and Johnny joints on both ends.

Even the 4" enforcer runs the factory rear arms?

unfortunately i was hoping to get away with keeping the RK arms just shortening them as much as they will go.

for sake of argument if i get a hold on some factory arms how is that gonna work with the RK rear track bar bracket and adjustable track bar and relocated sway bar?

wayoflife · Mar 24, 2015

Yup, everything you just posted up are all the problems I see all the time with Rock Krawler control arms. Unfortunately, being that they're 1" too long, you will not be able to shorten them up enough to address them. Factory arms are typically dime a dozen and if you post up that you're wanting a set here on the forum, I'd be willing to bet you can find a set for the cost of shipping. God only knows I would have shipped you out a set if I still had any laying around.

Or, if you're willing to spend a bit more, a set of currie arms is what I would get.

wayoflife · Mar 24, 2015

desertrunner said:
Even the 4" enforcer runs the factory rear arms?

Yup

unfortunately i was hoping to get away with keeping the RK arms just shortening them as much as they will go.

Well, you might be able to cut them down and if needed, tap them a bit deeper if there aren't enough threads inside the tube.

for sake of argument if i get a hold on some factory arms how is that gonna work with the RK rear track bar bracket and adjustable track bar and relocated sway bar?

Not sure how or why anything would be effected other than helping things along.

Big b · Mar 24, 2015

I believe RK uses the same rear track bar and bracket for the non extended kit, so you should be the same there. The swaybar links may be on the short side if you don't move it back. Can you not look at the arms and see how much inward adjustment you have?

wayoflife · Mar 24, 2015

Ah2014jk said:
Well I know this isn't gonna answer anything for you but I have the other problem. With my 40s I now run the poison spyder rocker knockers so need the axle back a little it's never ending

Pushing your axle back an inch more than stock is not the answer to your problem. If you have adjustable control arms, you should be able to properly center your axle under your Jeep. From there, you need to TRIM. If you have parts that are getting in the way, they are clearly not made for running 40's.

desertrunner · Mar 24, 2015

wayoflife said:
Yup, everything you just posted up are all the problems I see all the time with Rock Krawler control arms. Unfortunately, being that they're 1" too long, you will not be able to shorten them up enough to address them. Factory arms are typically dime a dozen and if you post up that you're wanting a set here on the forum, I'd be willing to bet you can find a set for the cost of shipping. God only knows I would have shipped you out a set if I still had any laying around.

Or, if you're willing to spend a bit more, a set of currie arms is what I would get.

wayoflife said:
Yup

Well, you might be able to cut them down and if needed, tap them a bit deeper if there aren't enough threads inside the tube.

Not sure how or why anything would be effected other than helping things along.

yeah sounds like getting a hold of factory arms is easier haha, or if i can find the $ for some currie arms.

I was thinking maybe the track bar and relocation bracket might account for the extra 1" and wouldn't line up with the factory arms. And then i guess just putting the sway bar back where it was??

OverlanderJK · Mar 24, 2015

wayoflife said:
Pushing your axle back an inch more than stock is not the answer to your problem. If you have adjustable control arms, you should be able to properly center your axle under your Jeep. From there, you need to TRIM. If you have parts that are getting in the way, they are clearly not made for running 40's.

Well when you run 40's on factory axles you are bound to fuck shit up.

wayoflife · Mar 24, 2015

desertrunner said:
I was thinking maybe the track bar and relocation bracket might account for the extra 1" and wouldn't line up with the factory arms. And then i guess just putting the sway bar back where it was??

Definitely just put the sway bar back to where it was. You might have issues with the track bar relocation if you're still running a factory track bar. If you're running an RK with their joints, you should be fine.

desertrunner · Mar 24, 2015

Big b said:
I believe RK uses the same rear track bar and bracket for the non extended kit, so you should be the same there. The swaybar links may be on the short side if you don't move it back. Can you not look at the arms and see how much inward adjustment you have?

good to know thank you

The uppers look like they are almost as short as they can go and the lowers could go in maybe 3/4" ish thats all by eyballing it

sounds like its not gonna matter though

wayoflife · Mar 24, 2015

OverlanderJK said:
Well when you run 40's on factory axles you are bound to fuck shit up.

:cheesy: Only if you wheel your Jeep.

desertrunner · Mar 24, 2015

wayoflife said:
Definitely just put the sway bar back to where it was. You might have issues with the track bar relocation if you're still running a factory track bar. If you're running an RK with their joints, you should be fine.

im running their Track bar back there as well so hopefully it will all work out fine when i get some new arms

desertrunner · Mar 24, 2015

if i get some factory arms under there is it safe to say i can ditch those angled pucks under the coils???

wayoflife · Mar 24, 2015

desertrunner said:
if i get some factory arms under there is it safe to say i can ditch those angled pucks under the coils???

Yes. Being that you have a 4-door, you'll still see some bowing of your springs but not enough to really matter. IF you really want to address it, I would do it with a set of JKS adjustable lower spring perches.

desertrunner · Mar 24, 2015

wayoflife said:
Yes. Being that you have a 4-door, you'll still see some bowing of your springs but not enough to really matter. IF you really want to address it, I would do it with a set of JKS adjustable lower spring perches.

If a little bit of bowing is normal then i wont worry about it, but the bowing that im seeing right now seems a bit excessive

I just went through my whole front suspension and now dreading all this crap in the rear but sometimes learning lessons the hard way makes it stick better :naw: a high price tag doesn't always mean a great product

Rock Krawler rear suspension 1" "Stretch"

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