Dana 60 upgrade

NM2012CherryJK said:
What is everyone's thought's on the currie rockjock 44 front axle housing? Was looking at this or a ProRock44. Thanks!
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How many people do you know running RockJock 44's? How many people do you know running ProRock 44's? There's a reason for that.

The biggest reason I would never get a Dana UD60 is that they come with NO warranty. If you get one out of the box, bolt it up and find there's a problem, you are stuck with a crazy big paper weight.
 
This thead is almost identical to the one I started a while back... Do yourself a favor and go Dynatrac it's worth the extra coin. I was considering both too love the Dynatrac.
 
wayoflife said:
How many people do you know running RockJock 44's? How many people do you know running ProRock 44's? There's a reason for that.
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Very true! Do you know if you can use the EVO track bar relocation bracket thats for a stock 44 with the ProRock44? Looks like I'm going to be doing sooner then planed looks like I have an inner axle seal leak. I just got done doing a drag link flip.
 
NM2012CherryJK said:
Very true! Do you know if you can use the EVO track bar relocation bracket thats for a stock 44 with the ProRock44? Looks like I'm going to be doing sooner then planed looks like I have an inner axle seal leak. I just got done doing a drag link flip.
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You can weld it on if you want but do what I did and get the synergy one welded on by Northridge or who ever you buy it from. Also have the ball joint installed this will save time and headache and the cost of a press which are not cheap.
 
NM2012CherryJK said:
Very true! Do you know if you can use the EVO track bar relocation bracket thats for a stock 44 with the ProRock44? Looks like I'm going to be doing sooner then planed looks like I have an inner axle seal leak. I just got done doing a drag link flip.
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The PR44 has bigger tubes and uses a different bracket.
 
branman said:
The PR44 has bigger tubes and uses a different bracket.
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This ^^^. Also, if you get something like an EVO drag link flip/front track bar relocation bracket, do yourself a favor and have the bracket welded on after it's been bolted on. Time and use will cause any and every bolt on your Jeep to come loose and maintaining these bolts is kind of a pain. Of course, failure to maintain these bolts can and will lead to tearing or complete failure of the axle mount. I have seen happen many times and with ALL brackets.
 
wayoflife said:
This ^^^. Also, if you get something like an EVO drag link flip/front track bar relocation bracket, do yourself a favor and have the bracket welded on after it's been bolted on. Time and use will cause any and every bolt on your Jeep to come loose and maintaining these bolts is kind of a pain. Of course, failure to maintain these bolts can and will lead to tearing or complete failure of the axle mount. I have seen happen many times and with ALL brackets.
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Will do thanks.
 
Spudcannons said:
This thead is almost identical to the one I started a while back... Do yourself a favor and go Dynatrac it's worth the extra coin. I was considering both too love the Dynatrac.
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I agree with the front from what I'm looking at. The front is close enough you could go either way Dana/Spicer or Dynatrac.

On the rear the Dana/Spicer FullFloat 60 costs ~4k. Dynatrac full float 60 costs almost 3.5k more. The rear is a tough sell for me to go to Dynatrac.
 
BigPrince said:
I agree with the front from what I'm looking at. The front is close enough you could go either way Dana/Spicer or Dynatrac.

On the rear the Dana/Spicer FullFloat 60 costs ~4k. Dynatrac full float 60 costs almost 3.5k more. The rear is a tough sell for me to go to Dynatrac.
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Dynatrac is a company that will stand behind their products. The Dana UD60 comes with NO warranty. Of course, for just a bit more, you could easily just get a ProRock 80. Not so tough a sell for me but, that is just me.
 
wayoflife said:
Dynatrac is a company that will stand behind their products. The Dana UD60 comes with NO warranty. Of course, for just a bit more, you could easily just get a ProRock 80. Not so tough a sell for me but, that is just me.
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I don't disagree with any of that. I've heard great things about Dynatrac's warranty and their dedication to their product. An 80 makes sense when you're in that price range. No disagreement on the front at all.

80 rear is too much for me, so looking at 60s. I can buy 2 UD60 rears($3600/ea) for less than one similar spec Dynatrac 60 full float($7299). That's a better deal to me than a warranty. If Dynatrac came down on their 60 full float close to the competition they'd have my business.
 
BigPrince said:
I don't disagree with any of that. I've heard great things about Dynatrac's warranty and their dedication to their product. An 80 makes sense when you're in that price range. No disagreement on the front at all.

80 rear is too much for me, so looking at 60s. I can buy 2 UD60 rears($3600/ea) for less than one similar spec Dynatrac 60 full float($7299). That's a better deal to me than a warranty. If Dynatrac came down on their 60 full float close to the competition they'd have my business.
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Most certainly - to each their own. I see you're out in GA and maybe if I lived in an area where all I got to wheel were off road parks, I might feel the same way. Out here in the west where you can literally be 100 miles from the nearest pavement, having equipment and components you can rely on is worth every penny to me. Of course, the best warranty is the one I never have to call on and Dynatrac has been that for me as well.

Good luck to you and your build. :cool:
 
If the general consensus is that 37's are fine on a built aftermarket 44 what about a 38" tire like the yokohama geolandars that technically measures out to 37.7?
 
DBats said:
If the general consensus is that 37's are fine on a built aftermarket 44 what about a 38" tire like the yokohama geolandars that technically measures out to 37.7?
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You'll probably get opinions all over but my suggestion is to look at the weight also. It's not just the size but rotational weight as well.
 
DBats said:
If the general consensus is that 37's are fine on a built aftermarket 44 what about a 38" tire like the yokohama geolandars that technically measures out to 37.7?
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The weight is close enough that it would be fine on a PR44. You can run 37" Pitbull Rockers which measure out 37.5"(I was looking into those yesterday).
 
BigPrince said:
I don't disagree with any of that. I've heard great things about Dynatrac's warranty and their dedication to their product. An 80 makes sense when you're in that price range. No disagreement on the front at all.

80 rear is too much for me, so looking at 60s. I can buy 2 UD60 rears($3600/ea) for less than one similar spec Dynatrac 60 full float($7299). That's a better deal to me than a warranty. If Dynatrac came down on their 60 full float close to the competition they'd have my business.
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I think they only come in 8x6.5 bolt pattern so you need to figure in new wheels into the price too.
 
DBats said:
If the general consensus is that 37's are fine on a built aftermarket 44 what about a 38" tire like the yokohama geolandars that technically measures out to 37.7?
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Honestly, I really don't know why people would want to run an odd size like a 38. There's a real benefit to running a tire that EVERYONE else has and that is you can bum a spare off of someone else if you blow more than one tire and/or they're a lot easier to find in most any town if you needed one in a pinch. I personally would stick to a 37 or a 40 for this reason but hey, that's just me.

Also, you really need to get over the whole "actual" measurement of a tire size as the only time it should matter is when you're calibrating your speedometer. Everyone else in the industry goes off of "advertised" size when talking about lifts, axles, etc.
 
wayoflife said:
How many people do you know running RockJock 44's? How many people do you know running ProRock 44's? There's a reason for that.

The biggest reason I would never get a Dana UD60 is that they come with NO warranty. If you get one out of the box, bolt it up and find there's a problem, you are stuck with a crazy big paper weight.
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This! This right here! I was thinking about these mopar 60s, heard many great things, but with no warranty?! Someone is smoking something to have decided on that "feature".
Saving a few grand would not be worth it only to have to turn around and spend an additional 11k+ to replace them with something that works.
I've been looking into this over and over as I've been getting closer to making the jump, and every time, EVERY time, it comes back to dynatrac bring the best option.
 
OhNoTheJiggies said:
This! This right here! I was thinking about these mopar 60s, heard many great things, but with no warranty?! Someone is smoking something to have decided on that "feature".
Saving a few grand would not be worth it only to have to turn around and spend an additional 11k+ to replace them with something that works.
I've been looking into this over and over as I've been getting closer to making the jump, and every time, EVERY time, it comes back to dynatrac bring the best option.
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So here's a question, what would a front ProRock 60 need to sell at in order for it to be a no brainer for you? As it stands, when comparing them apples to apples or as close as you can get them, they're just a few hundred dollars off in price. What if it were lower?
 
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