Yes, this is correct but most 315's and 305's are followed by a 75 or, 75% of the tread width for the height of the sidewall. I still stand by the fact that a 305/75R17 will measure more closely to a 35x12.50 than would a 315/75R17.
Jeep JK Wrangler 2.5" Budget Boost Installation Write-Up
- Thread starter wayoflife
- Start date
Yes, this is correct but most 315's and 305's are followed by a 75 or, 75% of the tread width for the height of the sidewall. I still stand by the fact that a 305/75R17 will measure more closely to a 35x12.50 than would a 315/75R17.
jkrossi
New member
[(Tire Width x Aspect Ratio x 2) / 2550 + Wheel Diameter*] x [*Tire Width / 25.4*] - [*Wheel Diameter]
Right?
IIWorlds
New member
Agree. I was just trying to help explaining the math behind the numbers and how they translate back and forth between metric and imperial.
That is the formula but I can assure you that all it will do is tell you what your tire should measure up to. As you yourself have seen with your 35" tires, they don't quite measure up to what is stated on the sidewall. Believe what you will but, if you were to physically put most 35x12.50's next to most 305/75R17's, I think you would find that they measure about the same. A 315/75R17 will measure taller.
IIWorlds
New member
Using the mentioned tire as an example I go (315x0.75:25.4x2)+17. Makes sense?
jkrossi
New member
Oh im not disagreeing with you. Im picking up what your putting down. I think ill just stick to a tape measure. Lol
GTMOSCUBA
New member
Took a closer look at the pinch seams today, definitely too tight - about 1.5". Definitely cutting the pinch seam once I get some metal blades for the sawsall.
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JAGS
Hooked
This tire size stuff is crazy to wrap your hands around.
How does this match up with say a Nitto Trail Grap. If a 315 is bigger than a 35" and a 37" is never a true 37", than does the 315 kind of fall in the middle? Or is a 315 more of a "true" 35. Just wondering what the height difference is for say a 37" and a 315. While not all tires are created equal, is this true for the Nitto Trails? :crazyeyes::thinking::idontknow:
As mentioned, not all tires are created equally. Nitto's tend to run on the tall side but even a 37x12.50 will only come up to about 35.5" - more if you run a high PSI and measure to the top of the tread. The 315 they make comes in a 70/R17 and comes up to about 34.5"
GTMOSCUBA
New member
Thanks for the guidance, will tread lightly in the meantime till I get metal cutting blades.
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Jaydoc1
New member
Hope you don't mind me bumping up an old thread but I have a question about the rear sway bar link positioning. Your write-up clearly shows you installing the new rear sway bar links on the outside of the axle and sway bar mounts yet the installation video and the installation instruction clearly show them being installed inside the mounts without any drilling of new holes. Now I will be running factory wheels for awhile but I do have 1.5" Spidertrax wheel spacers that will be going on before the BB does.
So here is my problem.
Initially I had planned on doing this install with a friend of mine in his garage. He has everything we need to do it and he has helped me on most (actually all) of my other mods (ProTek skids, front driveshaft, etc...).
However, another friend of mine is good friends with an installation shop here in town and they have told me they will do the install for me for $250. For me it's totally worth that amount of money to let them put it up on their actual lift and let them crawl around underneath risking their fingers and lives instead of me. :blush: So while I'd love to let them do the install, there are all the little things I've read about in WOLs write-up and contained in this thread that I'd like them to do but not sure they will since it differs somewhat from the written instructions. I'm guessing if they don't follow the instructions to the letter and then something went wrong that neither TeraFlex nor their insurance company would do much for them or me.
Additionally I have a hard time giving up control of this install (even though it's just a simple BB) to people I don't know. Yes my friend recommends them but I don't know them.
So, all that is, I guess, me just wondering out loud if I should take my JK to the shop and hand them Eddie's write-up and tell them I want it done that way instead of like the instructions. (Honestly 99% of the instructions and Eddie's write-up match, it's just that rear sway bar positioning that doesn't.) :thinking:
If you look at your Jeep now, the links are located on the outside of the sway bar. This is why I installed mine that way. The only reason to install them on the inside is to help prevent the rubbing of your tires on the driver side sway bar link end when running factory wheels. It works but, when flexing, your links will hit the axle and it can get bent. I would only do this as a temporary measure until you can install a set of wheel spacers or new wheels with less back spacing.
Having said that, I would totally do this install yourself as it will give you experience that you just can't buy and will be helpful on the trail.
Jaydoc1
New member
Thanks, Eddie. And thanks for the little push in the direction of doing it myself. You're totally right about that and ultimately I really knew that that's what I wanted to do just based on my OCD. The experience and knowledge gained will just be tremendous icing on the cake.
volleyholic
New member
This write-up was written for 2007-10 model JK's and the removal of the automatic transmission skid plate would have provided enough clearance of the front drive shaft to make the installation easy. The new placement of the 2012-up exhaust crossover will get in the way of your drive shaft regardless if you have an automatic or manual and disconnecting it from the front axle should be done to all for full droop. There are only 4 bolts to remove and a 15mm socket is all that you need. This is a much easier and safer way to go than to use a spring compressor.
Sorry if this seems like a dumb question, but how do you keep the driveshaft from spinning to remove the bolts?
JKbrick
Active Member
If your in the front, lock it in 4wd and put it in gear should work
volleyholic
New member
Thank you!
volleyholic
New member
I just wanted to take a minute and say thank you for this write up. I used it exclusively for the install if my BB last weekend (didn't even bother with the Teraflex instructions) and these instructions were dead on and invaluable. The puctures and instructions are right on.
I installed this budget boost about a week ago and I'm having a minor issue. When I hit a bump or bad pavement I'm getting a slight rattle that sounds like it's coming from the rear axel (passenger side). I've checked everything and made sure everything is tight but I can't figure out what's causing it! Can it be the relocation bracket?