Long arm kit ?

[snopro]

There really is only one reason to run long arms and that's to help restore your suspension geometry when lifted tall enough to start effecting your ride quality adversely. At that height, long arms will also help allow for proper axle travel without the swiping you would see with short arms. The JK factory length arms are way longer than the old TJ and up to 3" of lift, there simply isn't enough change in the geometry to warrant the need for long arms. If you are wanting to stay 3" or less, I would save your money and just stick with a good set of factory length arms.

I was wondering the difference between a 3 inch long arm kit and a 4 or 6 inch besides being taller? Would a 3 inch long arm bind or restrict travel verses a bigger spring and having a 4 inch or 6 inch?
Then throw in the factor in my situation of running coil overs. If I installed to a long arm and kept my Evo coil overs and remained at 3 inches verses increasing my coil preload more for taller height any benefits from 3 inches to 4 or even 6 inches
I'm comparing long arm to long arm

 

[JRoc]

Thank you!

Thanks a lot for the detailed information guys. This is a lot of money for me to put down, I would be quite angry with myself if I had to do it twice. Eddie, thank you for the clarification between the three kits and the explanation. With the Double D, it would be wise to go ahead and purchase the Evolever? What changes does the Evolever make? Are the Evo-spec King 2.5 with reservoir worth the extra $$?

Thanks again.

 

[OverlanderJK]

I personally won't not run more than a 2.5-3 inch on a two door.
I am running 39's and have a 3.5 using Evo bolt on coilovers and flats

What? "I won't run more then 2.5-3 inches of lift. But I'm running 3.5"

That makes no sense.

 

[pvanweelden]

^ here is a video to show a stock jkur suspension versus a 5" Radius arm kit and how differently the suspensions react. The radius arms are binding up, and offerring very little flex

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZR7OZdQibwM

 

[wayoflife]

I was wondering the difference between a 3 inch long arm kit and a 4 or 6 inch besides being taller? Would a 3 inch long arm bind or restrict travel verses a bigger spring and having a 4 inch or 6 inch?

Depends on the kit, if it's a 4-link setup or radius arm setup and what kind of joints they use. Arms that use clevite (bonded rubber) bushings will bind a lot sooner than would arms that have Johnny Joints or uni-balls. Of course, the taller you go, the more the geometry of even your long arms will be off and if you really want to be that tall, running something like high clearance brackets would NOT be something you'd want. Having said all that, long arms will NOT give you any more flex or travel than would short arms.

Then throw in the factor in my situation of running coil overs. If I installed to a long arm and kept my Evo coil overs and remained at 3 inches verses increasing my coil preload more for taller height any benefits from 3 inches to 4 or even 6 inches
I'm comparing long arm to long arm

Long arms will only correct your suspension geometry. They will not make a difference regardless if you are running coil overs or not.

 

[wayoflife]

With the Double D, it would be wise to go ahead and purchase the Evolever?

If you plan on running the EVO lever, get the EVO long arm kit with high clearance brackets. The Double D is for standard coils and shocks.

What changes does the Evolever make?

A lot! They will allow you to run EVO coil overs and give you the option to run it as a DTD setup which includes triple bypass shocks. If you do this, you really should run the DTD setup up front as well even if you just run it with one coil over.

Are the Evo-spec King 2.5 with reservoir worth the extra $$?

You won't need it if you run the EVO lever.

 

[snopro]

What? "I won't run more then 2.5-3 inches of lift. But I'm running 3.5"

That makes no sense.

With a shortarm yes! due to being a two door and clearance issues that I had to modify to adjust for height. I've had 2.5, 3.5, 5 inch and now 3.5 in my two door. As Stated earlier post from someone that sway bar brackets and coil angles start to play a factor. So if I was to suggest to build a current two door is keep it low as possible if staying with shortarm. That's why I was asking him if it's possible to stay low lift with a long arm

 

[snopro]

Depends on the kit, if it's a 4-link setup or radius arm setup and what kind of joints they use. Arms that use clevite (bonded rubber) bushings will bind a lot sooner than would arms that have Johnny Joints or uni-balls. Of course, the taller you go, the more the geometry of even your long arms will be off and if you really want to be that tall, running something like high clearance brackets would NOT be something you'd want. Having said all that, long arms will NOT give you any more flex or travel than would short arms.



Long arms will only correct your suspension geometry. They will not make a difference regardless if you are running coil overs or not.

Thanks, I'm wanting to run Johnny joint, long arm, stretched 4 link with coil overs and sitting on only 3 inches of coil over lift. Run the Evo hood up front and in the rear competition cut rear quarters with custom fenders to cover my tires.

 

[JK1]

Thanks a lot for the detailed information guys. This is a lot of money for me to put down, I would be quite angry with myself if I had to do it twice. Eddie, thank you for the clarification between the three kits and the explanation. With the Double D, it would be wise to go ahead and purchase the Evolever? What changes does the Evolever make? Are the Evo-spec King 2.5 with reservoir worth the extra $$?

Thanks again.

sorry JRoc i shouldnt have said anything about the EVO lever it seems to have just confused things. If you have a unlimited budget then i would def go with the double d long arm high clearance with EVO lever and double throw down. Iif you are just starting your build and your building on a budget you cant go wrong with the Double d kit with 4" plush rides and king shocks its a great platform to build off of. My thought would be if your going to coilovers in the future like the bolt on EVO coilovers then i would save yourself some cash and just run Bilstiens for a little while:beer:

 

[JRoc]

If you plan on running the EVO lever, get the EVO long arm kit with high clearance brackets. The Double D is for standard coils and shocks.
A lot! They will allow you to run EVO coil overs and give you the option to run it as a DTD setup which includes triple bypass shocks. If you do this, you really should run the DTD setup up front as well even if you just run it with one coil over.

So, for clarification I could purchase the DTD for the front, The complete Evolever for the rear, but I need to have the Evo High Clearance LA kit as the foundation for both? Will I need to purchase the King Coilovers in addition to? Maybe 14"? Will the King 2.0's do the job? I haven't really read the differences as of yet, between the 2.0, 2.5, and 3.0...This is kinda starting to look like a Moby jr maybe, lol... I am willing to budget what I need to to have a kick ass system that will maximize off road performance as well as on road.

Thanks Eddie. How you liking those half doors?

 

[JRoc]

sorry JRoc i shouldnt have said anything about the EVO lever it seems to have just confused things. If you have a unlimited budget then i would def go with the double d long arm high clearance with EVO lever and double throw down. Iif you are just starting your build and your building on a budget you cant go wrong with the Double d kit with 4" plush rides and king shocks its a great platform to build off of. My thought would be if your going to coilovers in the future like the bolt on EVO coilovers then i would save yourself some cash and just run Bilstiens for a little while:beer:

Thanks. I have been granted by my better half to put about 15,000 into it when I receive the Jeep. That's not a whole lot when you are talking high end suspensions and so forth...this has been a dream of mine for a long time and I am fortunate enough to be able to get this started. I would rather invest a majority of that fund to suspension as it's the most important. Other stuff will come later. For sure, I want to do the 5.38 upgrade as well as the Tom Woods 1350 drive shaft that will be necessary. I wanted the Evo tire carrier, however, if I omit that for now and only purchase 4 37's instead of 5, I can save some money there...I just want to make sure that I don't have to buy a suspension twice. Thanks again for your advice!

 

[wayoflife]

Thanks, I'm wanting to run Johnny joint, long arm, stretched 4 link with coil overs and sitting on only 3 inches of coil over lift. Run the Evo hood up front and in the rear competition cut rear quarters with custom fenders to cover my tires.

You've essentially described what we did with our VENGEANCE build.

http://wayalife.com/forumdisplay.php?86-Vengeance

So, for clarification I could purchase the DTD for the front, The complete Evolever for the rear, but I need to have the Evo High Clearance LA kit as the foundation for both?

Depending on your budget, I would recommend you get the DTD kit which will include the EVO lever, coil overs and bypass shocks. If that is too much for you to spend all at once, you can still get the front towers and EVO lever but just run it with single coil overs. With the DTD kit, you will be able to run the EVO long arm kit with the high clearance long arm brackets. The long arms aren't required but I would highly recommend it for your purposes.

Will I need to purchase the King Coilovers in addition to?

As mentioned, they will be a part of the kit. The bypass shocks make it the complete DTD.

Maybe 14"?

No, that would be too long. The kit comes with 12" up front but, due to the design, you will still get 14" of vertical travel. In the rear, you will only be running 8" coil overs but again, due to the design, you will be getting a full 14" of vertical travel. Any more than that and you will need to run limiting straps to prevent drive line bind. Ask me how I know.

Will the King 2.0's do the job? I haven't really read the differences as of yet, between the 2.0, 2.5, and 3.0...This is kinda starting to look like a Moby jr maybe, lol... I am willing to budget what I need to to have a kick ass system that will maximize off road performance as well as on road.

The King 2.0's are for use with a standard coil kit like the Enforcer.

Thanks Eddie. How you liking those half doors?

Getting them painted now and hope to have them back on Friday. I'll let you know more once I get them on :yup:

 

[2007blackJk]

^ here is a video to show a stock jkur suspension versus a 5" Radius arm kit and how differently the suspensions react. The radius arms are binding up, and offerring very little flex

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZR7OZdQibwM

Woah ... Saved for future reference.
Great vid !!!

 

[JK1]

Thanks. I have been granted by my better half to put about 15,000 into it when I receive the Jeep. That's not a whole lot when you are talking high end suspensions and so forth...this has been a dream of mine for a long time and I am fortunate enough to be able to get this started. I would rather invest a majority of that fund to suspension as it's the most important. Other stuff will come later. For sure, I want to do the 5.38 upgrade as well as the Tom Woods 1350 drive shaft that will be necessary. I wanted the Evo tire carrier, however, if I omit that for now and only purchase 4 37's instead of 5, I can save some money there...I just want to make sure that I don't have to buy a suspension twice. Thanks again for your advice!

your right about 15k going quick.. think about this

8000 EVO double D and EVO bolt on coilovers King bumps (i know you want to only buy once but look at the stuff Rubicat did with this setup)
4000 slabs and 37s
3000 front and rear bumper, winch and sliders
500 for lights cuz everyone needs lights
dang i went over
these are ruff numbers and also if you do your own install but you can see it goes quick but this would be a good setup :yup:

 

[MR.Ty]

Thanks. I have been granted by my better half to put about 15,000 into it when I receive the Jeep. That's not a whole lot when you are talking high end suspensions and so forth...this has been a dream of mine for a long time and I am fortunate enough to be able to get this started. I would rather invest a majority of that fund to suspension as it's the most important. Other stuff will come later. For sure, I want to do the 5.38 upgrade as well as the Tom Woods 1350 drive shaft that will be necessary. I wanted the Evo tire carrier, however, if I omit that for now and only purchase 4 37's instead of 5, I can save some money there...I just want to make sure that I don't have to buy a suspension twice. Thanks again for your advice!

There are a few cases of the stock carrier still working with 37s. EVOlander is the best example considering how many miles of trails it has conquered. I am planning on getting 5 35s but only running the spare when I go wheeling. I also may add some sort of spacer to help the tire rest on my rear bumper (like EVOlander's). It is a really good idea to always have a full size spare on the trail, so I think it would be a good idea if you just got all 5 37s at once. Here is Branman with a 37 on his stock tire carrier.

http://wayalife.com/showthread.php?17832-The-quot-Mid-Life-quot-buy-thread

 

[Jkzinger]

Thanks. I have been granted by my better half to put about 15,000 into it when I receive the Jeep. That's not a whole lot when you are talking high end suspensions and so forth...this has been a dream of mine for a long time and I am fortunate enough to be able to get this started. I would rather invest a majority of that fund to suspension as it's the most important. Other stuff will come later. For sure, I want to do the 5.38 upgrade as well as the Tom Woods 1350 drive shaft that will be necessary. I wanted the Evo tire carrier, however, if I omit that for now and only purchase 4 37's instead of 5, I can save some money there...I just want to make sure that I don't have to buy a suspension twice. Thanks again for your advice!

Don't get 5.38s on a D44 as you will have a small pinion. I made mistake and am waiting for the day I blow mine up!

 

[JRoc]

Don't get 5.38s on a D44 as you will have a small pinion. I made mistake and am waiting for the day I blow mine up!

What ratio would you suggest? I'm concerned about running 37's on the 4.10. I presume that the 4.10 would withstand it, however I would prefer my 0-60 be less than 10 minutes. 5.13?

 

[snopro]

Don't get 5.38s on a D44 as you will have a small pinion. I made mistake and am waiting for the day I blow mine up!

Mine should explode as we are speaking then with 5.38's and 39 krawlers

 

[JKsix]

Don't get 5.38s on a D44 as you will have a small pinion. I made mistake and am waiting for the day I blow mine up!

I'm wondering the same thing as jroc. What ratio do you recommend?

 

[snopro]

You've essentially described what we did with our VENGEANCE build.

http://wayalife.com/forumdisplay.php?86-Vengeance

But not the same in the rear. I have to run different setup as per talking to Mel several months ago.
Then again you knowing I'm running the Evo piggyback in rear it isn't the same as vengeance build. So I have different fabrication to adapt to and thus why I'm asking about keeping it low without having to cut through my rear tub