Help keep my d44's alive!

HDGasser · Aug 22, 2013

Help keep my d44's alive! **UPDATE**

Well I did a little bit of playing around this weekend, nothing cool or even half way fun but in the midst of messin around I realized my rear locker doesn't work.

Rear light flashes, front locks up fine. Summmmbitch!!

I'm gonna pull th cover this next weekend and if it turns out to be the anti rotation tab thing and some broken wires then COOL! Back in business!! But I'm usually not that lucky.

I was in the middle of shopping around for some rear axles for shits n giggles but now Im thinking it wouldnt be worth it. In the end if I do an ARB + compressor and 35 spline axles... It's still a D44.

Is it D60 time???

FML!!!

Ive been doing lots of reading, probably a bad thing! I know the forums is where people come to bitch and complain about what sucks and what they broke. Nobody wants to read about your " I went wheelin today and didn't break anything" story's so I'm sure Ill be fine for 90% of the stuff Im gonna do to this poor jeep.

BUT If any of you knew me personally youd be making bets on what I break first, there's already a pool at work... $5 a square PM me if you want in.:sigh:

I just wanna try and reduce the potential explosion of my drive terrain on my first trip out, especially since it's got a hemi and 37's... And no I don't have a bajillion dollars laying around for PR60/80's

Front end consists of:
Gusset'd C's
Dynatrac pro steer BJ's
RCV axles
Artec truss'd
Synergy trackbar brace
Welded lower arm skids
Poly HD tierod
Poison spyder diff cover
Yukon 5.13's
Teraflex big brakes + calipers
Stock rubi locker

From what I understand it's pretty much as built as a stock Front Rubi 44 can get with the exception of the locker... Right?

Now the rear is another story....
Yukon 5:13's
Annnnnd it's completely stock otherwise. I am running the full traction CRC link deal and it's got somewhat of a truss contraption built into it and a diff cover guard but that's it.

If it makes any difference it's got 1310 front drive shaft and a 1350 rear. Don't know the mfg?

So what say you experienced jeepers?? Should I at the minimum replace the rear axles?
Are the factory lockers my weak point? What else?

I've broken lots of parts/vehicles/toys playing hard but never something like this. Where it takes another capable rig to help get you out of places. I don't think my dually would make it very far thru the hammers or the rubicon ya kno??!

Sorry for all the n00b babbling!!

pvanweelden · Aug 22, 2013

Have you wheeled a different vehicle before? You've got quite the capable build going there, but your jeep was also very capable offroad before any of the mods you have done. With the hemi, you obviously run the risk of the skinny pedal causing breakage. 37's are pushing the limits of the d44's with a stock motor

Sent from my LG-C800 using WAYALIFE mobile app

HDGasser · Aug 22, 2013

pvanweelden said:
Have you wheeled a different vehicle before? You've got quite the capable build going there, but your jeep was also very capable offroad before any of the mods you have done. With the hemi, you obviously run the risk of the skinny pedal causing breakage. 37's are pushing the limits of the d44's with a stock motor

Sent from my LG-C800 using WAYALIFE mobile app

Negative batman, this is my first "wheelin rig". I've been out with a buddy and his CJ crew and had a good time, didn't Know going so slow could be so fun. Me n the wifey had a JKU for a rental in Hawaii at the beginning of this year and I fell in love. I started my search and by some fate of god this thing fell in my lap at a price that I could not refuse. I'm all about the "built not bought" and I don't doubt ill catch some flack for it but I have no self control!

That skinny pedal and my lead foot is what concerns me the most!

jeeeep · Aug 22, 2013

one thing I learned when building out is to identify the weak link...since you can't upgrade the D44's keep in mind with each component you strengthen, you change the weak link to another component.

I would rather something accessible from the outside fail over an internal part (ring gears...) that said, I would seriously consider switching out those 5.13's for 4.88's, I would be concerned about the thinner pinion of the 5.13's with the Hemi, you definitely have enough power to turn your 37's.

All gears are made in the same plant, but I would take a look at the Nitro Thick 4.88 RP gear set.

Canvas JK · Aug 22, 2013

jeeeep said:
one thing I learned when building out is to identify the weak link...since you can't upgrade the D44's keep in mind with each component you strengthen, you change the weak link to another component.

I would rather something accessible from the outside fail over an internal part (ring gears...) that said, I would seriously consider switching out those 5.13's for 4.88's, I would be concerned about the thinner pinion of the 5.13's with the Hemi, you definitely have enough power to turn your 37's.

All gears are made in the same plant, but I would take a look at the Nitro Thick 4.88 RP gear set.

i would also be mindful of the RCV axle shafts as they will make your RP the weakest link. There is a thread somewhere on here which talks about the RCV axle shafts.

R/
Will

pvanweelden · Aug 22, 2013

HDGasser said:
That skinny pedal and my lead foot is what concerns me the most!

The video I posted the other day to the jeep photo challenge thread is a perfect example of how the skinny pedal can easily be a bad thing. That and understanding that when the front axle is locked, steering tolerances change. Take your time, get to know your rig, and what it can do, with very little skinny pedal

Sent from my LG-C800 using WAYALIFE mobile app

Notajerryskid · Aug 22, 2013

EVO gussets, do not do the trusses, ARB locker (since you are changing the shafts), RCV shafts, ball joints (Polly pro, allied, pro steer) your choice.

If you change gears you need to do both front and rear at the same time.

I run 37's on a totally stock internal d44 I do have the C gussets and lover skids for the control arms. I tack wielded the caps to the U joints. I have wheeled about 500 miles on them ( I know it's a ticking time bomb, but wanting to do the locker, gears, and shafts at the same time). Just finished the rubicon. Also I'm not that gentle on my rig.

mrmet1983 · Aug 22, 2013

First off sick rig!! Second you will be fine so long as ur not on an incline and start letting those wheels hope cuz the next thing u hear will be a big snap followed by some four letter words. I think u will be fine and personally I love my 513 and with the hemi u should still be fine unless u feel like doing 50 through the rubicon trail lol

Sent from my JK

MTG · Aug 22, 2013

The biggest thing will be for you to stay off the skinny pedal!!! But judging by some of your other posts, that will be hard for you to do.

How many squares are left?

Tcdawg · Aug 22, 2013

I think your front is nicely set up, the RCV's may make the R&P the weak link but going to 4.88's isn't going to change that. They would be a little thicker but they would still be the weak link.

Your rear axle shafts will definitely need to be watched. With the big motor and the stock shafts, they will be twisting. Bring spare shafts for the rear.

newtdog · Aug 22, 2013

Did you say first time out? I don't know what kind of wheeling you'll be doing but I think you should be fine. A lot of breaks come from people mashing the skinny pedal!!! I've wheeled a lot of hard trails with my stock 30/44 combo and have been fine. People don't give their axles enough credit, they are pretty strong as is. Just my two cents,

2010 MANGO TANGO SPORT JKU

HDGasser · Aug 22, 2013

jeeeep said:
one thing I learned when building out is to identify the weak link...since you can't upgrade the D44's keep in mind with each component you strengthen, you change the weak link to another component.

I would rather something accessible from the outside fail over an internal part (ring gears...) that said, I would seriously consider switching out those 5.13's for 4.88's, I would be concerned about the thinner pinion of the 5.13's with the Hemi, you definitely have enough power to turn your 37's.

All gears are made in the same plant, but I would take a look at the Nitro Thick 4.88 RP gear set.

I was told by a guy at work the same thing about the 5.13's. and when not if I break them to throw in 4.88's

cpowill said:
i would also be mindful of the RCV axle shafts as they will make your RP the weakest link. There is a thread somewhere on here which talks about the RCV axle shafts.

R/
Will

I'm not 100% but I'm assuming that's why there's an 1310 driveshaft in there. Snapping a ujoint is field repairable... R&P not so much!

Ill do some more research

pvanweelden said:
The video I posted the other day to the jeep photo challenge thread is a perfect example of how the skinny pedal can easily be a bad thing. That and understanding that when the front axle is locked, steering tolerances change. Take your time, get to know your rig, and what it can do, with very little skinny pedal

Sent from my LG-C800 using WAYALIFE mobile app

But I like that pedal!!

Notajerryskid said:
EVO gussets, do not do the trusses, ARB locker (since you are changing the shafts), RCV shafts, ball joints (Polly pro, allied, pro steer) your choice.

If you change gears you need to do both front and rear at the same time.

I run 37's on a totally stock internal d44 I do have the C gussets and lover skids for the control arms. I tack wielded the caps to the U joints. I have wheeled about 500 miles on them ( I know it's a ticking time bomb, but wanting to do the locker, gears, and shafts at the same time). Just finished the rubicon. Also I'm not that gentle on my rig.

All the stuff I listed has been done, not my to do list.

Why do you say no to the truss??

HDGasser · Aug 22, 2013

MTG said:
The biggest thing will be for you to stay off the skinny pedal!!! But judging by some of your other posts, that will be hard for you to do.

How many squares are left?

4 squares left.

Tcdawg said:
I think your front is nicely set up, the RCV's may make the R&P the weak link but going to 4.88's isn't going to change that. They would be a little thicker but they would still be the weak link.

Your rear axle shafts will definitely need to be watched. With the big motor and the stock shafts, they will be twisting. Bring spare shafts for the rear.

Even with 1310's??

And yes, I'm shopping for axles as we speak!

HDGasser · Aug 22, 2013

mrmet1983 said:
First off sick rig!! Second you will be fine so long as ur not on an incline and start letting those wheels hope cuz the next thing u hear will be a big snap followed by some four letter words. I think u will be fine and personally I love my 513 and with the hemi u should still be fine unless u feel like doing 50 through the rubicon trail lol

Sent from my JK

50 thru the rubicon sounds fun! And expensive! Lol

wayoflife · Aug 22, 2013

Being that you've got a HEMI, you don't need to be driving hard and fast to break stuff. The toque it provides alone can easily break a 1310 drive shaft and even a 60 R&P and without going crazy with the skinny pedal - trust me, I have seen it.

HDGasser · Aug 22, 2013

wayoflife said:
Being that you've got a HEMI, you don't need to be driving hard and fast to break stuff. The toque it provides alone can easily break a 1310 drive shaft and even a 60 R&P and without going crazy with the skinny pedal - trust me, I have seen it.

So would you recommend staying out of 4Lo as much as possible?? And if the need arises do so, then back it out to 4Hi?

wayoflife · Aug 22, 2013

HDGasser said:
So would you recommend staying out of 4Lo as much as possible?? And if the need arises do so, then back it out to 4Hi?

Nah, playing in 4HI will get you using more skinny and cause more wheel spin - a sure fire recipe for a break. I would recommend just playing with what you got until something does break and then deal with it then. If you're lucky, that won't be for a long time.

HDGasser · Aug 22, 2013

newtdog said:
Did you say first time out? I don't know what kind of wheeling you'll be doing but I think you should be fine. A lot of breaks come from people mashing the skinny pedal!!! I've wheeled a lot of hard trails with my stock 30/44 combo and have been fine. People don't give their axles enough credit, they are pretty strong as is. Just my two cents,

2010 MANGO TANGO SPORT JKU

I really don't know either right now, few guys at work have some build FJ's one with an Allpro sas and they go all over the place.

I'd also like to get into the WAYALIFE trail runs, do the rubicon, and other local trails in the sierras.
I wanna go out for weekends take the fam bam and see some shit you can't with a "normal" vehicle. There's lots of places I'd like to load up the jeep, and get away for the weekend. Come back home and drive the jeep to work Monday! LoL

HDGasser · Aug 22, 2013

wayoflife said:
Nah, playing in 4HI will get you using more skinny and cause more wheel spin - a sure fire recipe for a break. I would recommend just playing with what you got until something does break and then deal with it then. If you're lucky, that won't be for a long time.

10-4, take her nice n easy. I'm thinking of buying a set of axles and wait till one snaps to replace them.

Lucky?? pffttt I'm screwed. LoL

wayoflife · Aug 22, 2013

While a lot breaks do come from people mashing the skinny pedal, there are a lot of breaks that just occur from time and use. Of course, everyone has their own idea of what a "hard trail" is and or how often is really "often". Of course, I'm just a mall crawler so, you can take what I say for what it's worth.

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