Help keep my d44's alive!

[wayoflife]

10-4, take her nice n easy. I'm thinking of buying a set of axles and wait till one snaps to replace them.


Lucky?? pffttt I'm screwed. LoL

Axle housings or axle shafts? If you mean axle housings, saving up for a set isn't a bad idea. If you mean shafts, being that you're running RCV's, you'll most likely break your R&P or the shaft deep inside the housing. I have seen it happen and neither are something you're gonna just swap out on the trail. Your rear shafts will most likely bend or break at the flange or, twist off at the splines. The first can just be fixed with a swap, the later will require a bit more work.

 

[pvanweelden]

^ i think he is planning on buying a set of rear axle shafts

 

[wayoflife]

Well, if you have a Rubicon, you'll need to get both a driver side and passenger side rear shaft. If you have an X, Sport or Sahara, you will only need to carry one as it can be used on either side. Make sure to get bearing pressed on as well as you will not be able to do that on the trail.

 

[HDGasser]

^ i think he is planning on buying a set of rear axle shafts

Yeah a set of rear CroMo shafts and save for a PR44 front housing as re-use the guts if there still good

And yeah it's a rubicon

 

[HDGasser]

I guess you can say I'm a gas station crawler, I found this pile on my way home from picking up in Phoenix behind a gas station in Palm Springs lol

 

[pvanweelden]

awesome rig!

 

[OverlanderJK]

Yeah a set of rear CroMo shafts and save for a PR44 front housing as re-use the guts if there still good

And yeah it's a rubicon

Don't waste your money on a PR44. You need a 60 with your setup.

 

[HDGasser]

Don't waste your money on a PR44. You need a 60 with your setup.

I guess ill go till she blows, then re finance the house to get some PR60's! LoL

 

[HDGasser]

Saw this the other day... Anybody have the tool??

 

[Serg5000]

My money is on you smoking the ring or pinion first.

 

[Tcdawg]

I'm not 100% but I'm assuming that's why there's an 1310 driveshaft in there. Snapping a ujoint is field repairable... R&P not so much!

R&P, definintley not a field repair. But...how often do you see JUST a U joint go out. I'd say 8 times out of 10 the U joint takes out the yoke too. If it's an axle shaft(which you won't have an issue with due to RCC's) it can take out yokes and ball joints. What a mess

My rear 1310 on my DS broke in Moab back in June, took out the entire CV joint at the TC end and the yoke going into the TC.

 

[TeamFaust]

My money is on you smoking the ring or pinion first.

Yep, x2 and likely some ancillary drive shaft related carnage in the process as Tcdawg mentioned.

 

[HDGasser]

Yep, x2 and likely some ancillary drive shaft related carnage in the process as Tcdawg mentioned.

Well I guess that why you have 2.. Remove the mangeled up one and proceed with the remaining! Still worth it i think to carry an extra ujoint just in case it is salvageable.:twocents:

 

[HDGasser]

My money is on you smoking the ring or pinion first.

Because of the 5.13's or just cause the torque from the engine?

 

[jmm176]

Mabey he should try this, I saw a show about it, alot of big time drag racers do it.

http://www.fourwheeler.com/how-to/transmission-drivetrain/129-0705-cryogenic-gear-treatment/

 

[wayoflife]

Mabey he should try this, I saw a show about it, alot of big time drag racers do it.

http://www.fourwheeler.com/how-to/transmission-drivetrain/129-0705-cryogenic-gear-treatment/

Unfortunately, freezing steel will not change the fact that the ring gear on a Dana 44 is only 8-1/2″ or the fact that a high pinion differential will have you running on the weak side of the gear. Rock racers or even drag racers typically have drive train made specifically for their needs AND THEN, they do things like this to help improve strength.

 

[TeamFaust]

Because of the 5.13's or just cause the torque from the engine?

Torque from the engine if you mash the gas. And the trick is to avoid big wheel spin and hopping as when something catches is when other things go snap/crackle/POP. :shock:

 

[HDGasser]

Unfortunately, freezing steel will not change the fact that the ring gear on a Dana 44 is only 8-1/2″ or the fact that a high pinion differential will have you running on the weak side of the gear. Rock racers or even drag racers typically have drive train made specifically for their needs AND THEN, they do things like this to help improve strength.

Cryo treating stuff does help reduce wear and strengthen metal but like wayo said, already being the weak side of thing isn't gonna make it worth it, now if I were to get into a PR60, I'd prolly consider it if I still snapped a ring gears.

 

[HDGasser]

Torque from the engine if you mash the gas. And the trick is to avoid big wheel spin and hopping as when something catches is when other things go snap/crackle/POP. :shock:

I've heard that sound before!

 

[StrizzyChris]

I was told by a guy at work the same thing about the 5.13's. and when not if I break them to throw in 4.88's

Just like the mentioned u-joint failure, the same with your R&P, but worse because its all contained in the pumpkin! If an R&P blows all that metal will more than likely cause damage to your locker, spider gears, axle shafts, etc.

Rock racers or even drag racers typically have drive train made specifically for their needs AND THEN, they do things like this to help improve strength.

Cryo treating stuff does help reduce wear and strengthen metal.

If you buy a part that was heat treated and then immediately cryo treated, you will see benefits as that's the time the molecules of the steel aligns(when cooling from heat expansion). If its a 3rd party cryo weeks, months or even years since the original heat tx was performed there is nearly no added benefit. As mentioned all their stuff is custom/expensive as hell and those manufacuteres probably perform both tx at the time of the part being made