RK 2.5 stock mod driveshaft issues?

matt08jk · Sep 23, 2013

I am about to pull the trigger on the 2.5 RK stock mod for my 08 jkr with auto transmission. I have seen 50% of posts that say it'll bring driveshaft issues and 50% that say no issue. Any advice/experience with this? If I do need a new driveshaft what do I actually need to replace to make it work?

H8MUD · Sep 23, 2013

I'm one of the 50% that had trouble. I have the RK 2.5". Went to Rausch this past weekend and was doing some mild blues, flexed and there went the boot. Have to replace it with a 1310 front drive shaft which will be $450+.

If you don't go off-road I believe you won't have problems (probably the other 50%).

The moment when it happened. Hope this helps.

ImageUploadedByWAYALIFE1379957026.010960.jpg

cozdude · Sep 23, 2013

i have the teraflex 2.5 (i know not the kit the op is getting but same height) and i havent had any issues with my driveshaft (knock on wood).

seanb123 · Sep 23, 2013

Have the stock mod wheeled it pretty hard no driveshaft issues knock knock I also have so big bump stops to keep from flexing to the breaking point

wayoflife · Sep 23, 2013

H8MUD said:
I'm one of the 50% that had trouble. I have the RK 2.5". Went to Rausch this past weekend and was doing some mild blues, flexed and there went the boot. Have to replace it with a 1310 front drive shaft which will be $450+.

If you don't go off-road I believe you won't have problems (probably the other 50%).

The moment when it happened. Hope this helps.

View attachment 50227

What he said. You will have issues with your front drive shaft due to the fact that the shocks they provide are considerably longer. This will provide more droop than your drive shaft has clearance for and the boot will get damaged as it hits your transmission and skid plate. An aftermarket shaft will be narrower in diameter and will not have a boot and therefore, it will not have this issue.

cozdude said:
i have the teraflex 2.5 (i know not the kit the op is getting but same height) and i havent had any issues with my driveshaft (knock on wood).

It's not the lift height that causes the problem but rather, the shock length used. TF 2.5" kit uses shorter length shocks and that limits your droop. Needless to say, this prevents your driveshaft from having issues.

cozdude · Sep 23, 2013

wayoflife said:
It's not the lift height that causes the problem but rather, the shock length used. TF 2.5" kit uses shorter length shocks and that limits your droop. Needless to say, this prevents your driveshaft from having issues.

ahh ok. i guess my bilsteins i ordered on the side were the right size then so i wouldnt have an issue! :rock: go me lol

matt08jk · Sep 23, 2013

wayoflife said:
What he said. You will have issues with your front drive shaft due to the fact that the shocks they provide are considerably longer. This will provide more droop than your drive shaft has clearance for and the boot will get damaged as it hits your transmission and skid plate. An aftermarket shaft will be narrower in diameter and will not have a boot and therefore, it will not have this issue.

Ok, that makes sense. I guess I might as well plan on swapping the driveshaft at the same time then. Might move it to the right on the calendar a little, but I want to do it right. Thanks for all of the heads up everyone! :beer:

kyle521 · Sep 23, 2013

I have the stock mod with bilstien shocks and I've had it since January with no issues

2013rubirick · Sep 23, 2013

look into the adams front drive shafts. that's what I have and if you ask anyone that has one you wont find anything bad about them. They are great quality and a lil cheaper then other drive shafts. with a great warrenty

H8MUD · Sep 23, 2013

cozdude said:
ahh ok. i guess my bilsteins i ordered on the side were the right size then so i wouldnt have an issue! :rock: go me lol

Which bilsteins shocks do you have? Are they the 5100s?

matt08jk · Sep 23, 2013

2013rubirick said:
look into the adams front drive shafts. that's what I have and if you ask anyone that has one you wont find anything bad about them. They are great quality and a lil cheaper then other drive shafts. with a great warrenty

Cool, I'll look at those. Thanks for the info!

H8MUD · Sep 23, 2013

matt08jk said:
Ok, that makes sense. I guess I might as well plan on swapping the driveshaft at the same time then. Might move it to the right on the calendar a little, but I want to do it right. Thanks for all of the heads up everyone! :beer:

I would still do it without the drive shaft and you might not have a problem. And if it fails its not going to leave you stranded as you'll be able to continue your day as if nothing happened. You will just know that its time to upgrade to the thinner drive shaft.

The ride quality is so nice your going to say to yourself why didn't I do this earlier, and on the trails you'll be real happy.

JMO.

H8MUD · Sep 23, 2013

2013rubirick said:
look into the adams front drive shafts. that's what I have and if you ask anyone that has one you wont find anything bad about them. They are great quality and a lil cheaper then other drive shafts. with a great warrenty

A friend of mine has the Adams also recommended them.

wayoflife · Sep 23, 2013

For the most part, drive shafts are drive shafts with the only real difference is in how well they are balanced and they type of u-joints used. So long as they come with Spicer or Neapco u-joints, you're good to go with any brand or even one made by a local shop.

matt08jk · Sep 23, 2013

wayoflife said:
For the most part, drive shafts are drive shafts with the only real difference is in how well they are balanced and they type of u-joints used. So long as they come with Spicer or Neapco u-joints, you're good to go with any brand or even one made by a local shop.

Noob question...do I only need to replace the front driveshaft?

wayoflife · Sep 23, 2013

matt08jk said:
Noob question...do I only need to replace the front driveshaft?

If you have a 2007-11 JK with an automatic, yes and only IF you run shocks that provide too much droop. Same would apply if you have a 2012-up regardless if you have an automatic or manual. If you have a 4-door, you should be fine with the factory rear shaft up to about 4" of lift. If you have a 2-door, you should replace the rear sooner than later with 3" of lift or more.

Ldogg · Sep 23, 2013

Eddie have you heard of people moving the auto trans skid a bit to prevent the boot from tearing? I thought I saw/heard that somewhere but I can't find anything on it now.

H8MUD · Sep 23, 2013

wayoflife said:
...If you have a 2-door, you should replace the rear sooner than later with 3" of lift or more.

Another noob question...I guess I'll ask in advance, how will you know the rear failed, when it falls to the ground?

Moochie · Sep 23, 2013

H8MUD said:
Another noob question...I guess I'll ask in advance, how will you know the rear failed, when it falls to the ground?

The CV joint will start to make a clicking sound and if you are observant you will hear it. If you don't replace it soon enough, the shaft could come loose while spinning and destroy the underside of your Jeep.

H8MUD · Sep 23, 2013

Moochie said:
The CV joint will start to make a clicking sound and if you are observant you will hear it. If you don't replace it soon enough, the shaft could come loose while spinning and destroy the underside of your Jeep.

Thanks...other than the clicking sound, if you do visual checks what should I be looking for?

TIA

RK 2.5 stock mod driveshaft issues?

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