PDA

View Full Version : 2013 Rubicon Unlimited Build



Prime8
06-06-2012, 06:01 PM
I will be looking to trade my 2010 JKU in for a 2013 JKUR later this year and want to get some advice on what order I should go in by way of mods. Since my money is not unlimited, mods will be bought over time. I hope to have this thing ready for bdmckenna's Colorado trip next summer. The parts that I already have, that I will be switching over to the new jeep, are:
Coast 1310 front driveshaft
Trektop NX
PSC evap skid
IPF Headlights
Trek Armor custom seat covers
LoD sliders
Spyderlock wheels
RK heavy duty tie rod
Fox SS shock

I am planning on adding the EVO DoubleD long arm kit to the new jeep. So from there, which mods and in what order would you guys recommend? Axle reinforcement? Bumpers and winch? Don't need specific brands, just a general list of what I need (like chromoly axle shafts, gussetts, etc...)
Help me make it a successful summer next year (and many more to come...) by helping me build my next rig!

Edit: let the list begin!
Axle:
PR44 or
Gussetts front
lockers front and rear
diff covers front and rear
35 spline chromoly shafts front and rear
(ball joints?)

Suspension:
Double D with high clearance rear brackets and bilsteins
(Upgrade to bolt on coilovers down the road a ways)

Armor:
Oil pan skid
front bumper
rear bumper w/ rock skins

Other:
Winch
Cb
37" tires
(Trim stock fenders)


What else?

DA RUNT
06-06-2012, 06:05 PM
I would go with armor first to protect your investment, then just add on as needed. :idontknow:

Prime8
06-06-2012, 07:18 PM
I would go with armor first to protect your investment, then just add on as needed. :idontknow:

Haha, that's all you're gonna give me? Come on, man! I can't add on as needed in the backwoods of Colorado... So I need to make sure I'm ready before then. Armor covers a LOT of different parts too. I am not going with full skids, after reading Eddie's advice on the matter, so what armor are you referring to specifically...? I also need help deciding on 35 vs 37, and all the subsequent parts necessary to have a sound, reliable setup with the recommended tire size... I know 37s require some additional reinforcement, but what all is required? Want to make sure I'm not missing anything.

Yeti-09
06-06-2012, 07:37 PM
I'd sell the Evap skid- pretty sure he new ones come with one (?)
Add the 35 spline rear shafts with an arb locker
Sleeve gusset the front and add chromoly shafts 35 spline and an arb locker
EVO long arm high clearance with coil overs
37s
Sell the 1310 shaft and get a 1350.
Rock lights (sr-m) lol :-)
Sports cage.....
I could go on but you have limited funds already

Good luck!!

Prime8
06-06-2012, 08:05 PM
I'd sell the Evap skid- pretty sure he new ones come with one (?)
Add the 35 spline rear shafts with an arb locker
Sleeve gusset the front and add chromoly shafts 35 spline and an arb locker
EVO long arm high clearance with coil overs
37s
Sell the 1310 shaft and get a 1350.
Rock lights (sr-m) lol :-)
Sports cage.....
I could go on but you have limited funds already

Good luck!!

Great! Is the 1350 necessary? Should I get the airlocker first, then the 1350? Also, where would bumpers fit into this mix? And if I'm planning on going 37" max on tires, will the stock D44 with gussetts be plenty strong enough, considering I won't be taking it on rocks every weekend?

BTW, guess I should have mentioned this earlier... It will mostly be a DD, but every month or two when I AM able to get offroad, I want it to be as capable as possible. I want it to have great road manners, but also be able to hang with anyone (well, maybe not Eddie, Mel, and Greg, but mostly anyone) for week long trips once a year. It would be great to eventually qualify for the JK Experience, but that might be years away. I don't want to cut corners here, even of it means taking years to build (although hopefully it won't be!). For example, I'd love a PR44 or even front and rear D60s, and the Double Throwdown setup, but I know that I don't need it and that I wouldn't ever fully utilize its potential (until I move west and out of Illinois, but that might be awhile...).

Prime8
06-06-2012, 08:51 PM
I'd sell the Evap skid- pretty sure he new ones come with one (?)
Add the 35 spline rear shafts with an arb locker
Sleeve gusset the front and add chromoly shafts 35 spline and an arb locker
EVO long arm high clearance with coil overs
37s
Sell the 1310 shaft and get a 1350.
Rock lights (sr-m) lol :-)
Sports cage.....
I could go on but you have limited funds already

Good luck!!

Also, you mentioned the ARB lockers front and rear. You recommend pulling out the stock rubi lockers right from the get-go?

DA RUNT
06-06-2012, 09:15 PM
I guess I could have been more specific :doh: I don't change anything until I have a need to tho. I make sure I have rocker protection and a winch then just go til something breaks or limits what I want to do.

TX_JK
06-06-2012, 09:55 PM
Once you have the 2012 Rubicon in your driveway this is the order i would beef/strengthen it...

1.) Aftermarket Control Arms
2.) Chromoly shafts front/rear
3.) Aftermarket Diff Covers and Lower Control Arm skids
4.) EVO Protek Skid System
5.) Rock Sliders
6.) Bigger Tires
7.) Bumpers

Then consider a winch, maybe aftermarket or trimmed fender flares, corner guards.

Putting JKS control arms on my JK really tightened up the steering and overall feel of onroad/offroad manners of my jeep.

In my opinion that list takes care of strengthening and protecting your jeep.

Prime8
06-07-2012, 03:09 AM
Once you have the 2012 Rubicon in your driveway this is the order i would beef/strengthen it...

1.) Aftermarket Control Arms
2.) Chromoly shafts front/rear
3.) Aftermarket Diff Covers and Lower Control Arm skids
4.) EVO Protek Skid System
5.) Rock Sliders
6.) Bigger Tires
7.) Bumpers

Then consider a winch, maybe aftermarket or trimmed fender flares, corner guards.

Putting JKS control arms on my JK really tightened up the steering and overall feel of onroad/offroad manners of my jeep.

In my opinion that list takes care of strengthening and protecting your jeep.

1.) I am going with the EVO Double D, as previously stated.
2.) Good call on the shafts, they were on my mental list, especially if I go 37's
3.) Diff covers definitely. Not sure if the Double D has the LCA skids included, but I'll be getting them with my EVO gussett kit...
4.) After reading what Eddie, Greg and others have said about aftermarket, full skid systems, I consider them a waste of money and weight. I think I'll just skid a couple things (like evap if still necessary, and an oil skid).
5.) As mentioned, I have LoD sliders already that I plan on transferring to the new rig.
6.) Tires for sure, they get purchased with the lift.
7.) Bumpers- this is where I get fuzzy, and one of the reasons I posted this thread. With all the structural things that need to be done, as well as things for the trail like gps and a cb, I don't know where to put front/rear bumper and winch on the priority list.

Also hoping someone can tell me if the 4.10 gears will be enough with the new motor to run 37" tires without needing to re-gear. Also, if I go with 37's over 35's, what other structural mods are necessary? Is a 1310 front DS and stock rear DS adequate? Are the stock lockers ok with 37's? Chromoly axle shafts front and rear? Any other structural mods necessary to run the added size and weight of 37's?

Yeti-09
06-07-2012, 04:45 AM
Id still move up to the 1350 with 37" tires. The 1310 might handle it but you might brake u joints- I busted two joints on my je reel 1310 with only 35s and on road! Sure it was already there waiting to happen.
-I'd run the rubi lockers till they break- but if your adding new shafts why not bump up the spline count at the same time? So that would mean new locker for the 35 spline shafts. I'm sure you can sell off the rubi locker for a few hundred along with the stock shafts.
-skids- true I'd run the factory ones with the added trans and oil skid and leave the factory ones in place.
-bumpers, I'd just remove the rear stock and go without. Front you can chop and add a winch plate or get a new front and winch in the beginning. Every rig should have a winch, you can't rely on your buddy having one all the time. So towards the top of the list.
- flairs, i would just cut the stock ones! Cheap and looks good- Eddie should make up a templet an sell for the cuts!! Hint hint.
And it's be said that the new engine can push 37s with the 4.10s with out the feeling of needing new gears. So you shouldn't have to worry about that- just a programmer to adjust for your bigger tires.

Good job picking to do this right from the start!! I think you'll like the double d on 37s! Are you getting the high clearance or jut the standard long arm kit? Make sure you have a drag link flip also!! Bump steer is a bitch. Might also want to look into a hydro steer too!! An on board air set up is always a plus to. :)

Prime8
06-07-2012, 11:12 AM
Good job picking to do this right from the start!! I think you'll like the double d on 37s! Are you getting the high clearance or jut the standard long arm kit? Make sure you have a drag link flip also!! Bump steer is a bitch. Might also want to look into a hydro steer too!! An on board air set up is always a plus to. :)

Well I felt like I was kinda flying by the seat of my pants on this first build. Since then though, I joined this forum and jk forum and have been doing a lot of reading! I bug Eddie a lot too, for when I have questions I can't find answers to (since the "Search" feature on jk forum crashes every single time on mobile, hint hint). I think I picked good products on this first rig, since I tend to research everything heavily before buying, but I had no real direction and I was just adding pieces here and there. I'd like to start this next build with an objective in mind and tailor every detail to work in unison.

Anyway, the Double D comes with the drag link flip kit. Currently have EVO's flip kit on my '10 and I wouldn't drive a lifted jeep without one! Like everything EVO makes, it was a pain in the butt to install, but it works so well you quickly forget all the cussing, blood, and sweat it took to install. Haha.
I would like the high clearance kit, but currently you have to get coilovers up front and the EVOLever in the rear. The new bolt on coilover kit will supposedly also have the high clearance brackets, but I'm waiting to see the price on those first... Sounds like a great kit and probably the best one out their for me personally and my particular driving profile, but I'm still skeptical about what the price will be. I think the Double D would work great for me too, and hopefully it can be upgraded in the future with the high clearance brackets and bolt on coilovers if I move somewhere that requires a better suspension.

As far as axle stuff, what additional reinforcment will I need to handle 37s? I think I remember Eddie saying they will eat up the factory e-lockers. So the lockers need to be replaced. Also need stronger axles and possibly a stronger front DS. What about the rear DS? What about the brakes? Will they handle the added rotational weight well enough? Also, if I change out the lockers and axle shafts to 35 spline, will the mean I need to swap the gears too? And won't it make my stock shafts unusable, therefore necessitating that I buy 2 of every axle shaft so I have a spare for the trail? Also, I know ARB airlockers are the best, but are the Yukon airlockers any good? 2 grand for new ARB lockers, when I'll be pulling out perfectly good stock e-lockers, makes me cringe... Haha. Also, I have read many opinions on this and they seem to go both ways, but I'll bring it up anyways... After the EVO gussett package, new chromoly shafts, new locker, and diff cover, I'm looking at just over 2 grand for parts alone on my front axle. Then add in $500+ to weld and install everything (I'm not confident enough to handle gearing type stuff) and I'm sitting just south of $3k probably. With that setup, am I going to be close to as good as a PR44? Because a loaded PR44 from Northridge is about $5k... Is it really $2k better than they heavily modified stock axle...? I can't see it being that much better, since almost all the PR44 components have been put into the mopar axle at that point anyways, the housing is just different... Thoughts? $5k for a damn axle is a hard pill to swallow...

Thanks for everyone's help! Wanting to make this rig a complete success, and the info you guys provide as a community and as individuals is very, very helpful. Jeep-wave to you all!

StrizzyChris
06-07-2012, 12:02 PM
The new bolt on coilover kit will supposedly also have the high clearance brackets, but I'm waiting to see the price on those first...

I am not sure if they are high clearance brackets? I was looking at this pics, and it apears they come with a new axle side bracket, but not sure if its high clearance. I doubt it adds any clearance since the kit is supposed to be DIY in your driveway and I would assume making it HC that would require some modification. I am currious of this myself now


As far as axle stuff, what additional reinforcment will I need to handle 37s? I think I remember Eddie saying they will eat up the factory e-lockers. So the lockers need to be replaced. Also need stronger axles and possibly a stronger front DS. What about the rear DS? What about the brakes? Will they handle the added rotational weight well enough? Also, if I change out the lockers and axle shafts to 35 spline, will the mean I need to swap the gears too? And won't it make my stock shafts unusable, therefore necessitating that I buy 2 of every axle shaft so I have a spare for the trail? Also, I know ARB airlockers are the best, but are the Yukon airlockers any good? 2 grand for new ARB lockers, when I'll be pulling out perfectly good stock e-lockers, makes me cringe... Haha. Also, I have read many opinions on this and they seem to go both ways, but I'll bring it up anyways... After the EVO gussett package, new chromoly shafts, new locker, and diff cover, I'm looking at just over 2 grand for parts alone on my front axle. Then add in $500+ to weld and install everything (I'm not confident enough to handle gearing type stuff) and I'm sitting just south of $3k probably. With that setup, am I going to be close to as good as a PR44? Because a loaded PR44 from Northridge is about $5k... Is it really $2k better than they heavily modified stock axle...? I can't see it being that much better, since almost all the PR44 components have been put into the mopar axle at that point anyways, the housing is just different... Thoughts? $5k for a damn axle is a hard pill to swallow...



I could not agree with you more...IF you are going to do ALL of those upgrades I would just do a swap. It comes with all the factory bracketry, gear choice, ARB's, upgraded axle shafts of choice, yoke of choice, etc. so you wont have to pay for labor.

When it comes to the strength a PR definitely is better. The biggest weakness of stock isnt the housing, its the tubes and knuckles. a PR tube is significantly thicker(in the 44) while maintaining narrow external tube diameter and clearance. They will allow you to upgrade to a 35 spline shaft also. I believe if you sleeve a stock, you will not have the clearance to upgrade with a higher spline count shaft.

Also if you have a rubi, you can easily sell it for no less than 1500, and that really helps make up the difference in cost. Again...all IF you will be doing ALL those upgrades

Prime8
06-07-2012, 01:04 PM
I am not sure if they are high clearance brackets? I was looking at this pics, and it apears they come with a new axle side bracket, but not sure if its high clearance. I doubt it adds any clearance since the kit is supposed to be DIY in your driveway and I would assume making it HC that would require some modification. I am currious of this myself now


Everything I've heard says that Rubicat is running the HC brackets with the new EVO bolt on coilovers... Maybe Eddie will speak up and let us know for sure, since EVO is taking so long to release this kit and is extremely tight-lipped about any details.

Prime8
06-07-2012, 01:21 PM
Updated original post with current list...

StrizzyChris
06-07-2012, 01:30 PM
Everything I've heard says that Rubicat is running the HC brackets with the new EVO bolt on coilovers...

Ah ic what u mean. I was under the impression this was the HC brackets for the LCA's but now you have me second guessing my assumptions as well lol

StrizzyChris
06-07-2012, 01:35 PM
Suspension:
Double D or potentially new bolt on coilovers.

I noticed on your updated list that under suspension it says Double D OR coilovers? The coilover kit will not include a LA kit also. I believe, unless they also make a complete kit out of it, that it will be front and rear shock/coil replacement to run coilovers with your existing lift. So not sure what you are thinking about for the track bars, adjustible controll arms, drag link etc.?

Sharkey
06-07-2012, 01:53 PM
Rubicat is running the EVO long arm control arm kit with high clearance brackets. These brackets relocate the frame mounting points on the lower control arms to provide better clearance. For the rear coilover, Rubicat also runs EVO Rockstars which provide better clearance than the stock rear lower shock mounts (the mounts on the rear axle).

StrizzyChris
06-07-2012, 02:05 PM
Rubicat is running the EVO long arm control arm kit with high clearance brackets. These brackets relocate the frame mounting points on the lower control arms to provide better clearance. For the rear coilover, Rubicat also runs EVO Rockstars which provide better clearance than the stock rear lower shock mounts (the mounts on the rear axle).

Well there you have it. WOL is running HC brackets for shocks AND LCA. BUT....are the rockstars part of the actual kit or just upgrades he had placed. AHHH I love speculation and chat on a product thats not even released hahaha :bleh:

wayoflife
06-07-2012, 02:07 PM
up front, the double d brackets are the same. rubicat is running high clearance brackets in the rear BUT, these had to be ordered separately and it does require welding. the double d kit is a "bolt-on" kit and because of it, the rear high clearance brackets are NOT included with the kit.

MTG
06-07-2012, 02:11 PM
Well there you have it. WOL is running HC brackets for shocks AND LCA. BUT....are the rockstars part of the actual kit or just upgrades he had placed. AHHH I love speculation and chat on a product thats not even released hahaha :bleh:

Speculation is fun so as long as it doesn't turn into a bitch session after its released... a lá the teraflex tire carrier thread on jk-forum.

Edit: I was not suggesting anyone here would do that.

StrizzyChris
06-07-2012, 02:33 PM
Fox SS shock

Other:
37" tires
(Trim stock fenders)


Are you considering running a hydro steering assist since your going with 37's? If so I wouldnt waste my cash on a SS and run the stock until I place the hydro on.


Speculation is fun so as long as it doesn't turn into a bitch session after its released... a lá the teraflex tire carrier thread on jk-forum.

Edit: I was not suggesting anyone here would do that.

I'm with ya...I like voicing my opinion when it cant be disputed yet...then once cold hard facts are disclosed and I am proven flat out wrong I like retreat into my hole of imaginary correctness where I rock!:rock:

Prime8
06-07-2012, 02:39 PM
up front, the double d brackets are the same. rubicat is running high clearance brackets in the rear BUT, these had to be ordered separately and it does require welding. the double d kit is a "bolt-on" kit and because of it, the rear high clearance brackets are NOT included with the kit.

Can this system be run with the bilsteins until later, when I have to funds, to get the bolt on coilovers?

wayoflife
06-07-2012, 02:40 PM
Can this system be run with the bilsteins until later, when I have to funds, to get the bolt on coilovers?

yes, it most certainly can and i personally would go that route. i'm pretty sure that nmwrangler here on this forum has the double d kit and is running bilsteins.

Prime8
06-07-2012, 02:42 PM
I noticed on your updated list that under suspension it says Double D OR coilovers? The coilover kit will not include a LA kit also. I believe, unless they also make a complete kit out of it, that it will be front and rear shock/coil replacement to run coilovers with your existing lift. So not sure what you are thinking about for the track bars, adjustible controll arms, drag link etc.?

I thought the HC brackets and bolt on coilovers, that are still unreleased, were going to be part of a full suspension kit. That's why I phrased it that way... Guess we'll have to see how they package it and all that's included.

Prime8
06-07-2012, 02:44 PM
yes, it most certainly can and i personally would go that route. i'm pretty sure that nmwrangler here on this forum has the double d kit and is running bilsteins.

Awesome. I think I'll go that route then. Get the Double D with the high clearance rear brackets, and upgrade to the bolt on coilovers at a later date.

StrizzyChris
06-07-2012, 03:31 PM
It sounds like you want to do this smart and like everyone else have a budget to work with. I hate to waste a penny and would look at it like this…(hope everyone understands just how I would look at it, and I dont think other ways to go are wrong)

1-I only want to do something once. IE run stock until I replace it with what I really want. This to not waste my budget spending cash twice on the same function like a steering stabilizer and then a hydro steer later.(unless its a cheap ticket item then who cares)

2-What must be done first before I can do the next step, but not performing the task twice on this either. IE weld on brackets to a stock axle if you KNOW you will be replacing that same axle in the near future and have to buy the brackets and pay for that labor a second time.

Trace out the “what MUST come first” or what can’t be on there until X is on there also. Example…I have already purchased my 8 lug wheels for my 1 ton axles that I don’t even have yet. Because I have to have wheels that fit these or else the axle does nothing. They are just sitting in the garage, but I wont be purchasing wheels twice! AND this has also helped me research more, and I have changed my mind 5 times since then.

These steps will obviously cause you to delay gratification (my poor stock jeep) of your build, but save you from spending the money twice. UNLESS you plan it around stages of the build IE run 35’s for two years and then save enough until they wear out and then do the next stage. This wouldn’t be a waste because you obviously got full use of the tires OR the item has good resale value.

JKRay
06-07-2012, 03:55 PM
I agree with strizzy it makes a lot of sense doing it the way you want it the first time than spending it twice and wasting money. Im doing the exact same thing with my jeep and belive me it is very agonizing to know that my jeep cant take on some of the trails I want to go on because I don't have a lift, tires, lockers and axles I want but I know that someday I will and with a little bit of saving will get what I want and be done with it. But of course its all how you want it and if you want to get out there and take on the trails faster then buying the cheaper stuff first is always an option and you could always sell those for a little money once you upgrade. So really there is positives to both sides. :yup:

Prime8
06-07-2012, 05:17 PM
I want to do it smart for a number of reasons... I don't want to buy things twice, like Chris pointed out. Nothings more frustrating than buying and installing something only to have to take it off and sell it for pennies-on-the-dollar later. Secondly, the timing has to be set up in progressive stages. What would be the point of getting 37's mounted on my spyderlocks before I can afford the lift, other than to make that cool 'baseball card in the spokes' sound when I'm driving down the road eating up the fenders? So I need to start organizing what needs to be bought/installed together and in what order. I'd say that lift would probably be one of the first, as it will make any other underbody installs easier to do myself with a floor jack and jack stands.

So it seems I've got the suspension ironed out now, so let's move on to axles... We talked about them before, but what about others like currie and teraflex? They make beefy front axles too right? Also, I don't think I ever got a solid response from anyone about necessary upgrades to run 37's, whether I need a 1350 up front, and whether I can just run a stock DS in the rear...? Any takers?

Prime8
06-08-2012, 01:16 AM
Talked to Chris at EVO MFG today. Decided on the Double D, so I can upgrade to the bolt on coilovers and HC brackets later. If I wanted to do the HC brackets from the get go, I would need to do the bolt on coilovers at the same time. That is far more than I can afford right off the bat. Plus, Chris said I can send in the rear Double D brackets once I install the HC brackets and I will get a partial credit for them. If you haven't called and picked Chris' brain yet, I highly recommend it.

Now on to axles...