37's on a Dana 30?? Also, EVO vs Genright Rear carrier

JKFlyer

New member
Hi all

I am on the cusp of doing some big work to My 2010 JKUS lifted 2.5 inch on 35's. I was previously going to buy a used set of Rubi axles but aborted that. As of now, I am definitely regearing rear and putting in ARB air locker in rear and compressor. I am wanting to get the Prorock 44 up front but really need to work the funds! That said, if i decided to hold off on prorock for moment, i would regear front and hold on air locker for front as well until i get a prorock. I am debating this b/c it's basically another 5000. So question i have is:

1) Can the dana 30 handle 37's? Note i am not much of a offroader and if i did, i would just do light LIGHT trails. I am thinking I would gusset at minimum. If you think dana 30 can not handle 37's or woudl eventually fail, then i would keep 35's if i choose to hold off on Prorock for now but i guess the whole point of doing all this is to go to 37's and I have to choose what gears i need (5.13 vs 4.88)

2) do you think it is necessary to put chromoly shafts in rear stock dana 44? I was thinking of trussing it too but hear that can actually be worse

Also - opinions. Going to either do EVO rear tire carrier with their rear corner guards - OR - Poision Spyder rear corner guards with Genright tire carrier. I know with both you have to undo pins so it's a pain. Any special opinions? I PM'd a couple of guys with the EVO and general consensus is it isn't too bad to open/close. I like PS skins better and will match my other PS stuff, but like EVO carrier better than Genright. Just meatier and cooler looking IMO. Thoughts?

Thanks everyone
 

biggy

Member
If your really not going to off road it I would just stay with what you have and just do gussets. As far as lockers go, again if your just on pavement they are really not necessary. I would recommend 5:13 gears if your going to run 37's. It's sounds like you want the Evo carrier so if you go genright you will probably regret it down the road .
 
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cozdude

Guy with a Red 2-Door
Hi all

I am on the cusp of doing some big work to My 2010 JKUS lifted 2.5 inch on 35's. I was previously going to buy a used set of Rubi axles but aborted that. As of now, I am definitely regearing rear and putting in ARB air locker in rear and compressor. I am wanting to get the Prorock 44 up front but really need to work the funds! That said, if i decided to hold off on prorock for moment, i would regear front and hold on air locker for front as well until i get a prorock. I am debating this b/c it's basically another 5000. So question i have is:

1) Can the dana 30 handle 37's? Note i am not much of a offroader and if i did, i would just do light LIGHT trails. I am thinking I would gusset at minimum. If you think dana 30 can not handle 37's or woudl eventually fail, then i would keep 35's if i choose to hold off on Prorock for now but i guess the whole point of doing all this is to go to 37's and I have to choose what gears i need (5.13 vs 4.88)

eventually the D30 will fail with the 37's. what i would do is save for the PR44 and keep running your 35's. then when you get the PR get it with 5.13's. when you have it installed have globex regear your rear to 5.13's as well. then later you can upgrade to 37's when your ready.

2) do you think it is necessary to put chromoly shafts in rear stock dana 44? I was thinking of trussing it too but hear that can actually be worse

it isnt necessary but it would be nice and strong. if you did i would get 35 spline shafts

Also - opinions. Going to either do EVO rear tire carrier with their rear corner guards - OR - Poision Spyder rear corner guards with Genright tire carrier. I know with both you have to undo pins so it's a pain. Any special opinions? I PM'd a couple of guys with the EVO and general consensus is it isn't too bad to open/close. I like PS skins better and will match my other PS stuff, but like EVO carrier better than Genright. Just meatier and cooler looking IMO. Thoughts?

Thanks everyone


if you like the evo carrier get the skins as well. IMO the evo and ps skins are identical. its just a matter of what carrier you like more.
 

biggy

Member
eventually the D30 will fail with the 37's. what i would do is save for the PR44 and keep running your 35's. then when you get the PR get it with 5.13's. when you have it installed have globex regear your rear to 5.13's as well. then later you can upgrade to 37's when your ready.



it isnt necessary but it would be nice and strong. if you did i would get 35 spline shafts




if you like the evo carrier get the skins as well. IMO the evo and ps skins are identical. its just a matter of what carrier you like more.

The Evo carrier will only work with Evo skins unless you want to do some serious modifications
 

cozdude

Guy with a Red 2-Door
The Evo carrier will only work with Evo skins unless you want to do some serious modifications

thats why i was saying it comes down to the carrier you like. if you like the genright carrier get the PS skins. if you like the EVO carrier get the EVO skins. i have seen it tho where someone on here had the evo skins and the genright carrier. i forget if they had to do any mods to the skins but it did look good.
 

biggy

Member
thats why i was saying it comes down to the carrier you like. if you like the genright carrier get the PS skins. if you like the EVO carrier get the EVO skins. i have seen it tho where someone on here had the evo skins and the genright carrier. i forget if they had to do any mods to the skins but it did look good.

I misunderstood . I thought you were saying they are interchangeable. My bad
 

cozdude

Guy with a Red 2-Door
I misunderstood . I thought you were saying they are interchangeable. My bad

no worries i just went back and read it and i can see where it sounds a little confusing. 2 cups of coffee isnt making me type clearly as well today, guess i need more lol
 

StrizzyChris

New member
I want and love the evo corners and carrier combo, but it comes at a HEFTY premium of 1450 not including installation(if you buy the needed round lights for 50 with them). Nothing beats it, but it ain't cheap. The genright carrier is what I'm planning on going with for its more economical aspect. I've played with it in person and its a quality carrier that will easily handle your possible 37's.

The rest of your questions I have difficulty answering due to your offroading needs. Drew at EVO ran 37's on his D30 and its no pavement princess. He goes offroading with it but does take bipasses at times(per his reporting to me) if he is concerned and doesn't push the limits. I would never run a locker on a D30 on a JK if you have regeard and are over stock tire size. That's too much stress on the small R&Ps tall and thin teeth. If you keep your carrier open, and only hit very mild trails then you could get away with a gusseted D30 for a while.

I wouldnt replace the rear axle shaft unless you have a bent flange or something already, and even then I would just replace it with a used stock axle shaft. A chromoly aftermarket shaft won't fix the real weakness of a jk shaft and that's the flange. Stock shafts are pretty strong.

These are just my opinions and they most certainly won't be everyone else's!
 

cozdude

Guy with a Red 2-Door
also just be aware that if you do get 35 spline shafts, you'll have to replace your carrier as a stock axle can only accept 32 spline shafts

since his is a sport arent they 30 spline?

yes he would have to replace the carrier if he did go up to 35
 

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
Hi all

I am on the cusp of doing some big work to My 2010 JKUS lifted 2.5 inch on 35's. I was previously going to buy a used set of Rubi axles but aborted that. As of now, I am definitely regearing rear and putting in ARB air locker in rear and compressor. I am wanting to get the Prorock 44 up front but really need to work the funds! That said, if i decided to hold off on prorock for moment, i would regear front and hold on air locker for front as well until i get a prorock. I am debating this b/c it's basically another 5000. So question i have is:

LOL!! I'm glad to see you post up these questions on the forum for others to chime in instead of just taking my word for it. :yup:

1) Can the dana 30 handle 37's? Note i am not much of a offroader and if i did, i would just do light LIGHT trails. I am thinking I would gusset at minimum. If you think dana 30 can not handle 37's or woudl eventually fail, then i would keep 35's if i choose to hold off on Prorock for now but i guess the whole point of doing all this is to go to 37's and I have to choose what gears i need (5.13 vs 4.88)

So long as you leave your front open, you should be good for a while. More than likely, long enough to save up for a ProRock 44. 5.13's will leave you with a small pinion up front but, if you're not wheeling too hard, it should be okay. Your biggest problem will be your front shafts. Still, I'd be hard pressed to throw any money at your Dana 30 especially knowing you'll be upgrading in the near future.

2) do you think it is necessary to put chromoly shafts in rear stock dana 44? I was thinking of trussing it too but hear that can actually be worse

Like I already told you by PM, there is no reason to install chromoly shafts in the rear unless what you have is bent at the flange or broken. Likewise, unlike the front axle housing, the rear is a true Dana 44 with 3" tubes and for the kind of wheeling you say you do, will be more than enough. Trussing is very difficult to do and more times than not, will BEND the axle housing even if installed by an experienced welder. There is a very specific process that you need to do to keep it from bending and even the guys that I know who do it well - it's a best guess at best. FWIW, I still run a factory rear Dana 44 on my Dozer JK with factory shafts and no truss. Of course, you can determine for yourself how hard I wheel. Being that you're on a budget, I would think that saving money here would be a good thing.

Also - opinions. Going to either do EVO rear tire carrier with their rear corner guards - OR - Poision Spyder rear corner guards with Genright tire carrier. I know with both you have to undo pins so it's a pain. Any special opinions? I PM'd a couple of guys with the EVO and general consensus is it isn't too bad to open/close. I like PS skins better and will match my other PS stuff, but like EVO carrier better than Genright. Just meatier and cooler looking IMO. Thoughts?

Thanks everyone

Pulling the pins is not a pain or at least, not to me. Obviously, we went with EVO as together with it's corner guards, offers real protection and looks great. But of course, that's just me. :yup:
 

JKFlyer

New member
appreciate replies guys. yeah,i think i will regret if i don't do EVo carrier. Sounds like you all like the evo skins as much so that is what will make the most sense. so that's done

will have them check my rear shafts and if ok, will keep as is. Others told me that as well. just curious if they can handle 37's. sounds like it.

front - definitely will not to locker with dana 30. i really would like to get prorock but for who i am and do now, it is probably overkill. but who lknows.

COZDUDE - I may go up to rausch creek this saturday - I may get a ride along with Mike from Globetex. Will you be around? I know we are in same boat of dana 30 with 5.13's. i may do some offroadin gthere to really get a feel for it before i make decision. i assumed you gusseted your front? did you sleeve it as well?
 

StrizzyChris

New member
since his is a sport arent they 30 spline?

yes he would have to replace the carrier if he did go up to 35

You're correct, I'm too used to talking about my rubi.

Non-Rubi
Front- 27sp inner & 32sp outer, rear-30sp
Rubi
Front-30sp inner & 32sp outer, rear-32sp
 

cozdude

Guy with a Red 2-Door
COZDUDE - I may go up to rausch creek this saturday - I may get a ride along with Mike from Globetex. Will you be around? I know we are in same boat of dana 30 with 5.13's. i may do some offroadin gthere to really get a feel for it before i make decision. i assumed you gusseted your front? did you sleeve it as well?

since i just had my gears installed i will not be wheeling till prob early next year. i have to do the 500 miles, change my fluid, then not wheel for a while longer.
 

JKFlyer

New member
Thanks Eddie - yeah wanted to see what others would say too. I totally agree on rear shafts ...was just putting question out there if they can handle 37'

LOL!! I'm glad to see you post up these questions on the forum for others to chime in instead of just taking my word for it. :yup:


So long as you leave your front open, you should be good for a while. More than likely, long enough to save up for a ProRock 44. 5.13's will leave you with a small pinion up front but, if you're not wheeling too hard, it should be okay. Your biggest problem will be your front shafts. Still, I'd be hard pressed to throw any money at your Dana 30 especially knowing you'll be upgrading in the near future.



Like I already told you by PM, there is no reason to install chromoly shafts in the rear unless what you have is bent at the flange or broken. Likewise, unlike the front axle housing, the rear is a true Dana 44 with 3" tubes and for the kind of wheeling you say you do, will be more than enough. Trussing is very difficult to do and more times than not, will BEND the axle housing even if installed by an experienced welder. There is a very specific process that you need to do to keep it from bending and even the guys that I know who do it well - it's a best guess at best. FWIW, I still run a factory rear Dana 44 on my Dozer JK with factory shafts and no truss. Of course, you can determine for yourself how hard I wheel. Being that you're on a budget, I would think that saving money here would be a good thing.



Pulling the pins is not a pain or at least, not to me. Obviously, we went with EVO as together with it's corner guards, offers real protection and looks great. But of course, that's just me. :yup:
 

JKFlyer

New member
I want and love the evo corners and carrier combo, but it comes at a HEFTY premium of 1450 not including installation(if you buy the needed round lights for 50 with them). Nothing beats it, but it ain't cheap. The genright carrier is what I'm planning on going with for its more economical aspect. I've played with it in person and its a quality carrier that will easily handle your possible 37's.

The rest of your questions I have difficulty answering due to your offroading needs. Drew at EVO ran 37's on his D30 and its no pavement princess. He goes offroading with it but does take bipasses at times(per his reporting to me) if he is concerned and doesn't push the limits. I would never run a locker on a D30 on a JK if you have regeard and are over stock tire size. That's too much stress on the small R&Ps tall and thin teeth. If you keep your carrier open, and only hit very mild trails then you could get away with a gusseted D30 for a while.

I wouldnt replace the rear axle shaft unless you have a bent flange or something already, and even then I would just replace it with a used stock axle shaft. A chromoly aftermarket shaft won't fix the real weakness of a jk shaft and that's the flange. Stock shafts are pretty strong.

These are just my opinions and they most certainly won't be everyone else's!

I love your avatar Chris! i laugh every time i see it. thx for advice
 

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
since his is a sport arent they 30 spline?

yes he would have to replace the carrier if he did go up to 35

Yes, any rear Dana 44 except for a Rubi comes with 30 splines. The benefit of this is that they come with equal length shafts and CAN be upgraded to an ARB that accepts 35 spline shafts. A beefy combination for sure. You cannot do this with a Rubi.
 

catahoula

Caught the Bug
Yes, any rear Dana 44 except for a Rubi comes with 30 splines. The benefit of this is that they come with equal length shafts and CAN be upgraded to an ARB that accepts 35 spline shafts. A beefy combination for sure. You cannot do this with a Rubi.

So it's more Stronger and durable than a Rubi 44?
 
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bl17z90

New member
I wanna make sure I understand this properly, as long as we are talking about breaking gears.

A Rubicon front Dana 44 is not a true Dana 44 R&P?

A Pro Rock 44's R&P is no stronger than a normal Dana 44 (none Rubicon) but the strength in the Pro Rock is the axle housing strength as well as the knuckles and shafts?


Is this correct or am I totally wrong? :bleh:
 
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