Rock Krawler control arm issue

cozdude

Guy with a Red 2-Door
So im having all 8 of my rock krawler control arms installed and we ran into a little issue. The new arms pushed my axel back about 2 inches. this is causing my coils to bow and my rear track bar to hit the coil on the passenger side. i have read around on other forums and found out that this is a common issue but could find an answer. we have tried turning the arms all the way in but they are still an inch longer than stock length. my coils will still bow but will not hit the trackbar. to get my pinion angle right tho my upper arms need to be lenghtened. this in turn bows my coils again and makes contact with the track bar.

my questions are-
1. any ideas on how to fix it

2. should i ditch the rear lower arms and just run the upper arms that way my axel isnt pushed to far back and i can still get my pinion angle right?

3.what is the proper pinion angle i thought it was the driveshaft should sit straight, but i feel like im wrong now.


Part 2-
also my front got pushed an inch forward as well. this caused my coils to bend a little as well and make sontact with my sway bars. both arms are turned in all the way and cant be adjusted in any more. im lost as to what i should do.



current lift is teraflex 2.5" (yeilds 3.25"). 2011 2 door sport.
 
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no personal experience with this setup but at a jeep show this past summer a few 2 door JK guys were running thir stuff, all of the guys i talked to who ran their parts all said they had to cut off the spring perches and move them forward and re weld them on to fix their spring bow and clearance issues becasue a regular little spring wedge most companys offer didnt cut it probably due to the fact the arms are longer... maybe this could fix your problems as well?
 

hinrichs

Caught the Bug
ill be watching this one steve, prolly still just going to wait for the long arm, but just incase should pay attention to this and see what can be done .
 

cozdude

Guy with a Red 2-Door
no personal experience with this setup but at a jeep show this past summer a few 2 door JK guys were running thir stuff, all of the guys i talked to who ran their parts all said they had to cut off the spring perches and move them forward and re weld them on to fix their spring bow and clearance issues becasue a regular little spring wedge most companys offer didnt cut it probably due to the fact the arms are longer... maybe this could fix your problems as well?

thought about that. i want to see if there are any other ideas forst before i go a do something like that. thank you for the idea tho.
 

cozdude

Guy with a Red 2-Door
ill be watching this one steve, prolly still just going to wait for the long arm, but just incase should pay attention to this and see what can be done .

thanks jim. yea long arms would be nice but as you kmow i just dont have plans for doing JKX like you do lol
 

cis911

New member
Hey bud, I too ran into the same issue. I bought all 4 rear adjustable synergy control arms and now my coil hits the Trac bar. I'm not sure how far back the axle moved but I know how to fix the bow in the coils. You will need to but JKS adjustable rear coil spring perches.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I537 using WAYALIFE mobile app
 

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
So im having all 8 of my rock krawler control arms installed and we ran into a little issue. The new arms pushed my axel back about 2 inches. this is causing my coils to bow and my rear track bar to hit the coil on the passenger side. i have read around on other forums and found out that this is a common issue but could find an answer. we have tried turning the arms all the way in but they are still an inch longer than stock length. my coils will still bow but will not hit the trackbar. to get my pinion angle right tho my upper arms need to be lenghtened. this in turn bows my coils again and makes contact with the track bar.

my questions are-
1. any ideas on how to fix it

2. should i ditch the rear lower arms and just run the upper arms that way my axel isnt pushed to far back and i can still get my pinion angle right?

3.what is the proper pinion angle i thought it was the driveshaft should sit straight, but i feel like im wrong now.


Part 2-
also my front got pushed an inch forward as well. this caused my coils to bend a little as well and make sontact with my sway bars. both arms are turned in all the way and cant be adjusted in any more. im lost as to what i should do.



current lift is teraflex 2.5" (yeilds 3.25"). 2011 2 door sport.

First off, even with 3.25" of lift, you really shouldn't need to have your lower arms set any longer than 19.75"-20". If you're going longer than that, they're being set too long and will cause contact with your track bar. Second, you have a 2-door and setting your rear upper arms for your pinion angle will bow your coils - this is totally normal. Installing wedges will help mitigate this but a better solution would be to install a set of JKS adjustable lower spring perches.
 

cozdude

Guy with a Red 2-Door
First off, even with 3.25" of lift, you really shouldn't need to have your lower arms set any longer than 19.75"-20". If you're going longer than that, they're being set too long and will cause contact with your track bar. Second, you have a 2-door and setting your rear upper arms for your pinion angle will bow your coils - this is totally normal. Installing wedges will help mitigate this but a better solution would be to install a set of JKS adjustable lower spring perches.


thanks Eddie i will look into getting the JKS adjustable perches then.

my lower arms are set to 20 5/8" and this is the shortest it can go. because of this should i just reinstall the factory arms?
 

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
thanks Eddie i will look into getting the JKS adjustable perches then.

my lower arms are set to 20 5/8" and this is the shortest it can go. because of this should i just reinstall the factory arms?

So you know, factory is 19-5/8" and at your shortest setting, you're looking at a full 1" longer than that - way too long. If you install a set of JKS adjustable perches, you should be able to make this work. Until then, yeah, I might reinstall your factory arms to prevent the annoying rubbing you probably have of your coils on your track bar.
 

cozdude

Guy with a Red 2-Door
So you know, factory is 19-5/8" and at your shortest setting, you're looking at a full 1" longer than that - way too long. If you install a set of JKS adjustable perches, you should be able to make this work. Until then, yeah, I might reinstall your factory arms to prevent the annoying rubbing you probably have of your coils on your track bar.

damn alright. i will think about getting the spring perches but i guess i will do the factory rear lowers for the time being.

the front is pushed forward an inch as well (front upper and lowers installed) and caster is where it should be. this shouldnt cause a problem should it with it being an inch forward?
 

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
damn alright. i will think about getting the spring perches but i guess i will do the factory rear lowers for the time being.

the front is pushed forward an inch as well (front upper and lowers installed) and caster is where it should be. this shouldnt cause a problem should it with it being an inch forward?

So long as your passenger side coil isn't rubbing the bump stop tower and your driver side sway bar arm isn't hitting your coil, you should be okay up front.
 

cozdude

Guy with a Red 2-Door
So long as your passenger side coil isn't rubbing the bump stop tower and your driver side sway bar arm isn't hitting your coil, you should be okay up front.

the bump stop wasnt but the sway bar was. we lenghtened it and it doesnt currently. i can slide a finger inbetween on both sides at least. a lot less then i did before but it is what it is a guess. good to know i will be ok then.
 

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
the bump stop wasnt but the sway bar was. we lenghtened it and it doesnt currently. i can slide a finger inbetween on both sides at least. a lot less then i did before but it is what it is a guess. good to know i will be ok then.

Funny how I knew that would be a problem, eh? :D

Where you'll need to keep an eye on these areas is when flexing on the trail. As your coil compresses, it will bow more if your spring perches aren't in line as they aren't now. For the most part, this is okay but depending on the coil you are running, it will bow more and make contact. Softer the coil, the more this is a problem.
 

cozdude

Guy with a Red 2-Door
Funny how I knew that would be a problem, eh? :D

Where you'll need to keep an eye on these areas is when flexing on the trail. As your coil compresses, it will bow more if your spring perches aren't in line as they aren't now. For the most part, this is okay but depending on the coil you are running, it will bow more and make contact. Softer the coil, the more this is a problem.


you truely are a master of your art Eddie lol

i guess since i take the say bar links off anyway and rotate my saw bar up to get it out of the way when on the trails i will be ok as you said. im assuming my bump stops will be fine then but i will have to check when fully stuffed when on the trail.

thanks for all your help eddie!
 

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
you truely are a master of your art Eddie lol

i guess since i take the say bar links off anyway and rotate my saw bar up to get it out of the way when on the trails i will be ok as you said. im assuming my bump stops will be fine then but i will have to check when fully stuffed when on the trail.

thanks for all your help eddie!

LOL!! Just been there done that.

Seriously, even if it does make contact, it's not really a problem - more annoying than anything as the coil catches the lip of the bump stop cup and clangs as it frees itself of it. Again, a lot of this is a problem with soft coils and I know you are running TF so you should be okay.
 

cozdude

Guy with a Red 2-Door
LOL!! Just been there done that.

Seriously, even if it does make contact, it's not really a problem - more annoying than anything as the coil catches the lip of the bump stop cup and clangs as it frees itself of it. Again, a lot of this is a problem with soft coils and I know you are running TF so you should be okay.

works for me! i can deal with that since it will not hurt anything. once again thank you for all your help Eddie
 
whats the benefit of buying adjustable coil perches vs just moving them? once its set its set? or i guess if you go to 4.5" youll want to adjust it again...
 

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
works for me! i can deal with that since it will not hurt anything. once again thank you for all your help Eddie

Doesn't hurt anything but it is really loud when it lets go and everyone will let you know that something sounded bad :D

whats the benefit of buying adjustable coil perches vs just moving them? once its set its set? or i guess if you go to 4.5" youll want to adjust it again...

The adjustable perches are nice as they will allow for significantly more adjustment than wedges. You literally can get your coils back in line again after setting your pinion angle. As you have guessed, the other benefit is that if you ever go taller, you can set your pinion angle for the greater lift AND set your coils again too.
 
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