What is the main difference between the Front Dana 44 on the Rubicon and the Rear 44?

jorgelrod

jorgelrod

Hooked
This is more of an educational question for me as the more I spend on the forum and see the axle questions, the more I learn. I see that the main response to axles is going to the ProRock 44 in the front and when speaking of the Rear, They say the stock is plenty strong unless going above 40's etc. What differences are there between the Front and rear 44 (I also read once something someone said about the rear being a true 44) where going PR 44 rear or PR60 are options to be considered...

Again, I know there are hundreds of axle threads on "What should I buy??" but this is more of a thread to help me understand differences towards the future based on my Overlanding and 10% Rock 90% mud type wheeling locally goals...
 
cozdude

cozdude

Guy with a Red 2-Door
The front Dana 44 is only a name. The reason is because its shares the exact same C's and axle tubes as the Dana 30. The only reason it can be called a 44 is because the housing is a 44 and you can run a 44 ring gear.

The rear 44 has bigger tubes which allows it to be stronger and a true d44. You can run a 37" tire on it without having to worry about failing for a long time.
 
cozdude

cozdude

Guy with a Red 2-Door
jorgelrod said:
Thanks, that is the type of answer I was looking for...
Click to expand...

Your welcome. That is the reason why people will ditch the front 44, because it's no stronger than the 30. If your max tire size is going to be 37's then the pr44 would be perfect. Then if and when your rear 44 fails you can get a Dynatrac trail60 to keep the cost down but also it will be way stronger than your factory 44.
 
jedg

jedg

New member
cozdude said:
Your welcome. That is the reason why people will ditch the front 44, because it's no stronger than the 30. If your max tire size is going to be 37's then the pr44 would be perfect. Then if and when your rear 44 fails you can get a Dynatrac trail60 to keep the cost down but also it will be way stronger than your factory 44.
Click to expand...

I -kind- of new this... but really hadn't seen it stated succinctly. So I'll ask a follow on question. I'm running a 6.0L. I'm running a 35" tire now and MIGHT go to a 37" tire at some point. This is a daily driver that I do off road and rock crawl maybe 6 times a year. Would the above advice still be sound? **EDIT** Another thought, would a PR44 front and a rear OEM 44 with upgraded axle shafts be what I'm looking for?
 
jorgelrod

jorgelrod

Hooked
What is the main difference between the Front Dana 44 on the Rubicon and the ...

I guess the PR44 and the rear 44 will last me a long time, as I stated, most of the stuff here is mud and water and I don't see myself going beyond 35s. My rig is sort of becoming an Overland kind of vehicle for camping, that does not mean I won't "just wheel it" but as the weight starts to pile on, Fridge, rack, awning, tent etc on Overland trips, going with too tall tires is counterproductive...

It's nice that you bring the Trail 60 into the conversation as the main concern shifts from breaking it due to heavy foot to breaking it due to weight on the vehicle, although again, I'm pretty sure the rear 44 should be plenty strong...
 
Canvas JK

Canvas JK

-
Your rear D44 will last a long time. Where you run into problems is bombing through rough roads and getting air born. If you look at the 2013 JKX there is a JK that was traveling at a high rate of speed and actually got air born and broke is rear axle.

Rubicam just recently upgraded to Moby's old PR60 rear axle. I believe they put almost 60K miles on the rear D44 before the swap.

Again it will all depend on how hard and fast you go off road.

R/
Will
 
cozdude

cozdude

Guy with a Red 2-Door
jedg said:
I -kind- of new this... but really hadn't seen it stated succinctly. So I'll ask a follow on question. I'm running a 6.0L. I'm running a 35" tire now and MIGHT go to a 37" tire at some point. This is a daily driver that I do off road and rock crawl maybe 6 times a year. Would the above advice still be sound? **EDIT** Another thought, would a PR44 front and a rear OEM 44 with upgraded axle shafts be what I'm looking for?
Click to expand...

Since your running a 6.0L your main problem would be the amount of torque over the amount of weight from tires and your rig weight. Because of that I would just look into a pr60. The bigger shafts and bigger ring and pinion would be able to handle that torque better.

jorgelrod said:
I guess the PR44 and the rear 44 will last me a long time, as I stated, most of the stuff here is mud and water and I don't see myself going beyond 35s. My rig is sort of becoming an Overland kind of vehicle for camping, that does not mean I won't "just wheel it" but as the weight starts to pile on, Fridge, rack, awning, tent etc on Overland trips, going with too tall tires is counterproductive...

It's nice that you bring the Trail 60 into the conversation as the main concern shifts from breaking it due to heavy foot to breaking it due to weight on the vehicle, although again, I'm pretty sure the rear 44 should be plenty strong...
Click to expand...

Yea a pr44 and the stock rear will suite you perfectly then for what you wanna do. As mentioned you will only need to upgrade to a trail 60 or replace it with a stock 44 again if it break or you ran out of upgrades to do lol
 
tobias lopez

tobias lopez

New member
cozdude said:
The front Dana 44 is only a name. The reason is because its shares the exact same C's and axle tubes as the Dana 30. The only reason it can be called a 44 is because the housing is a 44 and you can run a 44 ring gear.

The rear 44 has bigger tubes which allows it to be stronger and a true d44. You can run a 37" tire on it without having to worry about failing for a long time.
Click to expand...

So I having a discussion here at work about a true Dana 44 (rear) and a front Dana 44 which is the same as a Dana 30 other than the housing. Like u had said. But he is the FACT type of person is there somewhere I can get the FACTS at?
 
wayoflife

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
jedg said:
I -kind- of new this... but really hadn't seen it stated succinctly. So I'll ask a follow on question. I'm running a 6.0L. I'm running a 35" tire now and MIGHT go to a 37" tire at some point. This is a daily driver that I do off road and rock crawl maybe 6 times a year. Would the above advice still be sound? **EDIT** Another thought, would a PR44 front and a rear OEM 44 with upgraded axle shafts be what I'm looking for?
Click to expand...

As mentioned, what you should be concerned with is the amount of torque your motor puts out. I run a 6.2L in my JKU and swapped out my perfectly good ProRock 60 for a ProRock 80 in the rear and still run a ProRock 60 up front. Of course, I have been able to break other axles with just my old POS 3.8L motor. If the trails you run aren't breaking things for you now, maybe you'll be okay but I wouldn't have any faith in a 44 rear with that much power.
 
tobias lopez

tobias lopez

New member
wayoflife said:
LOL! Just go out and measure the diameter of a Dana 30 axle tube and then measure a factory front Dana 44. Physically look at the end forgings - they are EXACTLY the same. That should be FACT enough :yup:
Click to expand...

Lol I had foward him a link to an old thread but he doesn't listen lol.

http://wayalife.com/showthread.php?15133-Dana-30-vs-Dana-44

I think we're going to have a lunch measure his front 44 and my 30 lol.

this started because he thinks his front 44 is the same as his rear. So I made the statement that his front isn't a true 44 like his rear and that his 44 and my 30 are the same other than the housing.
 
wayoflife

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
tobias lopez said:
Lol I had foward him a link to an old thread but he doesn't listen lol.

http://wayalife.com/showthread.php?15133-Dana-30-vs-Dana-44

I think we're going to have a lunch measure his front 44 and my 30 lol.

this started because he thinks his front 44 is the same as his rear. So I made the statement that his front isn't a true 44 like his rear and that his 44 and my 30 are the same other than the housing.
Click to expand...

Actually, to be clear, your "tubes" and "end forgings" or C's are the same but the diff, ring and pinion and shafts are different. Essentially, both your front "housings" are pretty much the same thing - it's just the internals that are different.
 
tobias lopez

tobias lopez

New member
wayoflife said:
Actually, to be clear, your "tubes" and "end forgings" or C's are the same but the diff, ring and pinion and shafts are different. Essentially, both your front "housings" are pretty much the same thing - it's just the internals that are different.
Click to expand...

Got it thank you! !:)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Bottom