Issues moving up to 35's

Strawman

New member
Ok so I'm getting 35's for the first time and I'm under the impression I'm gonna need to do a couple things... Not exactly sure what they are. (Tried searching but I'm probably doing it wrong)

My question is, is spedo adjustment required? and by required I mean is anything other than the display affected by not doing it?

I saw a few mentions of these procal modules. Are there any alternatives to these kind of things? (I saw something about them screwing something up with the sway bar or lockers on a JK rubicon. Ring any bells??

and Is there anything else I need to worry about with upsizing? not so much with clearances but more so with electronics and gears and what not

and to note (one day I might eat these words) but I'm not going bigger than 35"
 

RockyJk

Active Member
If you have an auto the procal will help with shift points on the bigger tires, also look into doing c-gussets.
 

hinrichs

Caught the Bug
I would do guessets up front, and thats about it to protect the front axle a little more. I have used the procal on 2 different rubicons with no issues at all. Its the cheapest on the market and works exactly as designed.
 

WJCO

Meme King
I would do guessets up front, and thats about it to protect the front axle a little more. I have used the procal on 2 different rubicons with no issues at all. Its the cheapest on the market and works exactly as designed.

Because I'm not a JK owner, please enlighten me a little on the whole gusset/truss thing guys. The reason I ask, is I do plan on putting 34s on my WJ in the next year or so. I will be upgrading gears and RCV axles (Dana 30 as usual). I've heard pros and cons on spending money on the Dana30 period, so I'm asking you guys as well because I know your knowledge and experience in this area will be worthwhile. I was going to start a new thread, but figured this info might be helpful to the OP as well. Thanks in advance.
 

Shantz

Member
I'm running 35's, 4.10s, Dana 30 front and a manual... lifted the front 2.5 rear 1.75... 2 inch bump stops... and that's it. Runs great and everything is straight... off-road about every 2 months.
 

AllAmericanInfidel

Caught the Bug
Ok so I'm getting 35's for the first time and I'm under the impression I'm gonna need to do a couple things... Not exactly sure what they are. (Tried searching but I'm probably doing it wrong)

My question is, is spedo adjustment required? and by required I mean is anything other than the display affected by not doing it?

I saw a few mentions of these procal modules. Are there any alternatives to these kind of things? (I saw something about them screwing something up with the sway bar or lockers on a JK rubicon. Ring any bells??

and Is there anything else I need to worry about with upsizing? not so much with clearances but more so with electronics and gears and what not

and to note (one day I might eat these words) but I'm not going bigger than 35"

Here is what I did. C gussets for the front axle. AEV Procal corrected the speedo and shift points. If your running 4:10 gears you'll be fine with 35s. I have not heard of any issues with the Procal causing problems with Rubi lockers or sway bar. Not to say they don't exist, but I have never personally heard of any. I also got some Daystar tailgate bumpstops to snug up the 35 inch spare on the stock carrier.
I don't see that you would have any issues with the speedo being off, but my question would be why? A hundred bucks and you could get your speedo squared away and your shift points corrected. Plus it does some other helpful stuff as well. In my opinion it's always best to do things correctly.
 

AllAmericanInfidel

Caught the Bug
Because I'm not a JK owner, please enlighten me a little on the whole gusset/truss thing guys. The reason I ask, is I do plan on putting 34s on my WJ in the next year or so. I will be upgrading gears and RCV axles (Dana 30 as usual). I've heard pros and cons on spending money on the Dana30 period, so I'm asking you guys as well because I know your knowledge and experience in this area will be worthwhile. I was going to start a new thread, but figured this info might be helpful to the OP as well. Thanks in advance.

C gussets support your upper and lower Cs to prevent them from bending, which can occur with factory Jeep axles. A truss, in my opinion, is just not needed. Not only will it still not prevent your axle from bending, but if not welded properly, can actually bend your tubes by installing it. Your weakest point on a D30 are the internals, not the tubes. Hope this helps.

Curious, what gears are you planning on running?
 

cozdude

Guy with a Red 2-Door
I'm running 35's, 4.10s, Dana 30 front and a manual... lifted the front 2.5 rear 1.75... 2 inch bump stops... and that's it. Runs great and everything is straight... off-road about every 2 months.

Oh, and the Speedo is off... I just use my gps for my mph.

You don't need the procal just cause you have a Manual. An auto NEEDS a procal to insure that the shift points are correct for the larger tires. A procal is NEEDED for both auto and manual when you do a gear swap.
 

WJCO

Meme King
C gussets support your upper and lower Cs to prevent them from bending, which can occur with factory Jeep axles. A truss, in my opinion, is just not needed. Not only will it still not prevent your axle from bending, but if not welded properly, can actually bend your tubes by installing it. Your weakest point on a D30 are the internals, not the tubes. Hope this helps.

Curious, what gears are you planning on running?

4.56 for sure. I'm pretty set on that. Most of the WJ guys say they're great for 33s and good for 35 as far as economy over hp. With me going 34s, I'm pretty confident that will be the best setup.
 

JakeJK

New member
Regarding the procal, you cal also get super chips flashcal to change these settings, or a superchips flashpaq if you want to adjust these settings and have the ability to tune your jeep(don't really see the point in this for a naturally aspirating vehicle though)
 

albertmald9

New member
Regarding the procal, you cal also get super chips flashcal to change these settings, or a superchips flashpaq if you want to adjust these settings and have the ability to tune your jeep(don't really see the point in this for a naturally aspirating vehicle though)

To add on to this, the flashcal has a digital display while (unless this has changed) the procal uses dip switches which may or not please you, personally I'd rather pay more and get the flashcal. If you decide to do more than just calibrate tire size, gear ratio, etc. with the flashcal you have the option to purchase and download the flashpaq software which allows you to tune your rig to tow, crawl, mpg, or octane settings. I haven't done the latter but with the flashcal I at least know I have the option to do so.

One thing worth noting, though. It seems that superchips usually has had issues in the past with new models and it takes a while to get the bugs worked out. Can't attest to that myself but just what I've read over the years.

Edit: I just checked your profile - with an 09 i think you'll be fine.
 

DWiggles

Caught the Bug
My understanding is that the ONLY use for a procal/flashcal on a manual was to adjust TPMS and speedo. That's it.... the jeep will work just fine without it, however your speedo will be off whatever the difference is, and the tpms system light will be on. That's my understanding. Can someone verify?
 

Strawman

New member
Wow definitely appreciate the info guys I'll have to look into those c gussets. I'm not really sure if it matters but would those still be needed for a Rubi since it's running Dana44? (No idea if c's are any stronger on that vs the 30 ):idontknow:

Definitely looks like I want to get the procal or something similar. Never messed with any electronics before are they pretty simple to use?
 

RockyJk

Active Member
Wow definitely appreciate the info guys I'll have to look into those c gussets. I'm not really sure if it matters but would those still be needed for a Rubi since it's running Dana44? (No idea if c's are any stronger on that vs the 30 ):idontknow:

Definitely looks like I want to get the procal or something similar. Never messed with any electronics before are they pretty simple to use?

The c's are the same and the Flashcal is pretty easy to use its what I got
 

albertmald9

New member
Wow definitely appreciate the info guys I'll have to look into those c gussets. I'm not really sure if it matters but would those still be needed for a Rubi since it's running Dana44? (No idea if c's are any stronger on that vs the 30 ):idontknow:

Definitely looks like I want to get the procal or something similar. Never messed with any electronics before are they pretty simple to use?

The flashcal is very simple. The digital display is basically a menu and you choose what you're running and what options you'd like. You may need to download software onto it through a computer first, and that is also quite simple.

Procal might be easier due to the use of dip switches but some people find that annoying. Its a matter of preference but overall both are pretty straight forward.

The procal comes with a chart so you'll know which dip switch setting to use for your application.
 
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