Suspension Upgrades

JSTJPN

JSTJPN

New member
Ok, I am starting to replace/upgrade my suspension. I have a 2011 JKU with a standard coil lift and all other components are OEM. My question is, should I replace the OEM control arms or keep the factory ones? If I need to replace, what is the recommendation on the control arms, track bar, tie rods, etc...?

Thanks in advance for the recommendations.
 
BlacknRedJK

BlacknRedJK

Member
I'm sure others will chime in, but I would recommend getting adjustable front lower control arms to give you the ability to adjust your caster angle. The other six should be fine to leave factory. Plenty of guys running factory control arms with the exception of front lowers without issues. Depending on how much lift you may want to look into a drag link flip as well.

Other with more experience should be willing to help more than I can.
 
wayoflife

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
What size tires are you hoping to run? That'll help us to understand how much lift you might want to run and that'll determine what if anything should be replaced. :yup:
 
JSTJPN

JSTJPN

New member
wayoflife said:
What size tires are you hoping to run? That'll help us to understand how much lift you might want to run and that'll determine what if anything should be replaced. :yup:
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I currently have a 4 inch lift with 35's. I am also swapping out the old d30 and replacing with a 44 which will lead me to 37's.
 
wayoflife

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
JSTJPN said:
I currently have a 4 inch lift with 35's. I am also swapping out the old d30 and replacing with a 44 which will lead me to 37's.
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Wow, tall lift especially for just 35's. Okay - well, with that much lift, you really should consider installing a drag link flip/front track bar relocation kit to help correct your steering geometry. I would also recommend adjustable upper and lower control arms to reposition your axles, set your caster up front and set your pinion angle in the rear. If you're working on a budget, you can get by with just front lowers and rear uppers and really, you only need the later IF you're running an aftermarket u-joint style drive shaft. Otherwise, the other factory arms will hold up well enough. I actually prefer running factory track bars and with the relocation bracket, you won't need an adjustable one.
 
JSTJPN

JSTJPN

New member
wayoflife said:
Wow, tall lift especially for just 35's. Okay - well, with that much lift, you really should consider installing a drag link flip/front track bar relocation kit to help correct your steering geometry. I would also recommend adjustable upper and lower control arms to reposition your axles, set your caster up front and set your pinion angle in the rear. If you're working on a budget, you can get by with just front lowers and rear uppers and really, you only need the later IF you're running an aftermarket u-joint style drive shaft. Otherwise, the other factory arms will hold up well enough. I actually prefer running factory track bars and with the relocation bracket, you won't need an adjustable one.
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Thanks Eddie for the info.

Is there a particular brand that you would recommend? I am on a budget but am willing to increase the budget for the product that will last a little longer and hold up best to moderate wheeling.
 
wayoflife

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
JSTJPN said:
Thanks Eddie for the info.

Is there a particular brand that you would recommend? I am on a budget but am willing to increase the budget for the product that will last a little longer and hold up best to moderate wheeling.
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For the drag link flip, I run an EVO kit but the AEV one works just as well. Whatever you get here, I would recommend that you have it welded in place after installation. As far as control arms go, I personally prefer Currie or EVO arms as they have Johnny Joints on both ends and allow for a greater degree of bind free flex. That being said, they will need to be maintained/greased. If moderate wheeling is all you do and don't come across a lot of flexing, you might want to consider arms with clevite bushings (bonded rubber like what you have factory) as they will remain quite and will be maintenance free. Companies like Full-Traction make a decent set but you do need to know that if you get into big flex, the bushings will blow sooner than later and replacing them is kind of a pain. Of course, there are companies that fall somewhere in between like Clayton who uses clevite bushings at the frame and Johnny Joints at the axle. This is a good compromise as well. I understand that the new Rock Krawler joints are nicer and quieter but I have no personal experience with them - only the old style ones and I wasn't too fond of them. Sorry for rambling - hope that helps.
 
JSTJPN

JSTJPN

New member
wayoflife said:
For the drag link flip, I run an EVO kit but the AEV one works just as well. Whatever you get here, I would recommend that you have it welded in place after installation. As far as control arms go, I personally prefer Currie or EVO arms as they have Johnny Joints on both ends and allow for a greater degree of bind free flex. That being said, they will need to be maintained/greased. If moderate wheeling is all you do and don't come across a lot of flexing, you might want to consider arms with clevite bushings (bonded rubber like what you have factory) as they will remain quite and will be maintenance free. Companies like Full-Traction make a decent set but you do need to know that if you get into big flex, the bushings will blow sooner than later and replacing them is kind of a pain. Of course, there are companies that fall somewhere in between like Clayton who uses clevite bushings at the frame and Johnny Joints at the axle. This is a good compromise as well. I understand that the new Rock Krawler joints are nicer and quieter but I have no personal experience with them - only the old style ones and I wasn't too fond of them. Sorry for rambling - hope that helps.
Click to expand...

Thanks. This helps out a lot. I definitely want to use a product that is durable and will hold up to whatever wheeling I find myself doing.

The goal is to have this all completed by next June. A few of us east coast WAL'ers are planning on making the trek to Moab June 17. So durability is the key to success and fun. 👍
 
Tylersilverjku

Tylersilverjku

Member
I personally decided to go with an EVO drag link flip and it has been amazing! I followed eddies advice and ran the stock teach bar(I have seen some with drag link flips and an adjustable track bar but I thought the stock was just fine!
 
JSTJPN

JSTJPN

New member
Thanks guys for the info. Your input has been helpful in helping me get a better idea of what I need/should do.
 
Red Knight15

Red Knight15

Caught the Bug
JSTJPN said:
Thanks. This helps out a lot. I definitely want to use a product that is durable and will hold up to whatever wheeling I find myself doing.

The goal is to have this all completed by next June. A few of us east coast WAL'ers are planning on making the trek to Moab June 17. So durability is the key to success and fun. [emoji106]
Click to expand...

We are going to Moab sometime close to that date. I haven't nailed down a date for sure.
 
JSTJPN

JSTJPN

New member
Red Knight15 said:
We are going to Moab sometime close to that date. I haven't nailed down a date for sure.
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It would be great to meet up with you all. Our dates actually depend on when the kids get out of school. So it could be any time after 19 May 17 but before 15 June.

That trip for us is a min of 2 days driving just to get there. May end more like 2.5. Lol
 
Red Knight15

Red Knight15

Caught the Bug
JSTJPN said:
It would be great to meet up with you all. Our dates actually depend on when the kids get out of school. So it could be any time after 19 May 17 but before 15 June.

That trip for us is a min of 2 days driving just to get there. May end more like 2.5. Lol
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Sounds good. If your planning on doing any mountain pass wheeling in Colorado wait as long as you can. We went 2 years ago. Late May into early June and most of the passes were still closed with snow. Not a issue if your going to just Moab.
We stayed in Silverton Colorado a couple nights, very nice.
 
JSTJPN

JSTJPN

New member
Red Knight15 said:
Sounds good. If your planning on doing any mountain pass wheeling in Colorado wait as long as you can. We went 2 years ago. Late May into early June and most of the passes were still closed with snow. Not a issue if your going to just Moab.
We stayed in Silverton Colorado a couple nights, very nice.
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Not sure about any of the Colorado mountains but we may drive up to Yellowstone. Just all depends on the number of days we take.
 
WJCO

WJCO

Meme King
JSTJPN said:
It would be great to meet up with you all. Our dates actually depend on when the kids get out of school. So it could be any time after 19 May 17 but before 15 June.

That trip for us is a min of 2 days driving just to get there. May end more like 2.5. Lol
Click to expand...

Red Knight15 said:
Sounds good. If your planning on doing any mountain pass wheeling in Colorado wait as long as you can. We went 2 years ago. Late May into early June and most of the passes were still closed with snow. Not a issue if your going to just Moab.
We stayed in Silverton Colorado a couple nights, very nice.
Click to expand...

Yep. They just started opening SOME of the lower elevation trails this weekend.

roads.jpg
 
RMC2

RMC2

Caught the Bug
Dave,
Just ditch it all and go long arm double throw down EVO all the way. ProRock 60s too. 😇

I like the way the evo arms adjust on the Jeep, not that i have them or need them. I don't know if you have changed driveshafts yet, but should consider a 1350 front shaft in the mix too.

Spend that money your uncle is paying you. Your wife will only kill you once, ............ maybe only once.
 
NevadaZielmeister

NevadaZielmeister

Caught the Bug
RMC2 said:
Dave,
Just ditch it all and go long arm double throw down EVO all the way. ProRock 60s too. [emoji56]

I like the way the evo arms adjust on the Jeep, not that i have them or need them. I don't know if you have changed driveshafts yet, but should consider a 1350 front shaft in the mix too.

Spend that money your uncle is paying you. Your wife will only kill you once, ............ maybe only once.
Click to expand...

Fuck yeh!!!
 
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