Locker disengaged(pics) feels locked.

ttfhell

ttfhell

New member
Made the mistake of using my front locker today. Always engages ok but have to use the ol' screwdriver trick to disengage. Did the trick, looked right felt wrong. Repeated. Still felt locked as steering is hard when slow, tires chirping, and under/oversteers at speed. Drove home from Azusa Canyon Fun! Pulled diff thinking maybe the bottom of the ring still engaged. Took these pics. Looks about as un-engaged as it gets. Jacked front end off ground both tires spin same direction when hand turned. Now wont engage either.
Used it when I got hung up on front diff/driveshaft. Ended up getting strapped back. Heard a slight pop when getting strapped. Don't know.

Drag link was already bent a little. Filed down the driveshaft a bit on the rock and nocked the cap loose. None of which I think have any direct effect on my problem. Any ideas? What did I break? Is there something obvious my newbieness is missing? Axle shaft?
Thanks
Russ ImageUploadedByWAYALIFE1365988612.770820.jpg ImageUploadedByWAYALIFE1365988636.930205.jpg ImageUploadedByWAYALIFE1365988649.762810.jpg ImageUploadedByWAYALIFE1365988687.874390.jpg ImageUploadedByWAYALIFE1365988710.685462.jpg ImageUploadedByWAYALIFE1365988730.039585.jpg



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jeeeep

jeeeep

Hooked
when my front locker feels like it's not disengaging I always back up about 20' and it disengages.
 
ttfhell

ttfhell

New member
jeeeep said:
when my front locker feels like it's not disengaging I always back up about 20' and it disengages.
Click to expand...

Thanks I've tried this no luck. The problem is the pictures show the dog clutch fully disengaged. Yet drives liked locked. I'm out of patience and ideas but thanks again. Maybe the lockers inners are trashed.
 
bob-o12jk

bob-o12jk

Banned
This happened to my rear locker a while back, if your jk is still under warranty, take it to the dealer so they can look at it.
They replaced mine for free, its a known problem for these rubi lockers

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wayoflife

wayoflife

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Staff member
For as big as you have your Jeep now, I think it's time to start thinking about getting an ARB. That is, so long as you haven't installed sleeves.

Even if you can get this replaced under warranty, it's only a matter of time before it breaks again. Ask me how I know.
 
ttfhell

ttfhell

New member
Thanks Eddie, but they are sleeved. Sighs. If not replaced under warranty I can't go ARB without replacing the whole housing as the shafts won't fit in the sleeves right?
Just to confirm the dog clutch in the pic looks un-engaged right?


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wayoflife

wayoflife

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Staff member
ttfhell said:
Thanks Eddie, but they are sleeved. Sighs. If not replaced under warranty I can't go ARB without replacing the whole housing as the shafts won't fit in the sleeves right?
Just to confirm the dog clutch in the pic looks un-engaged right?


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Click to expand...

yup, looks disengaged to me and, you are correct, bigger spline shafts, something you would need with an ARB cannot be installed if you have sleeves. sorry.
 
ttfhell

ttfhell

New member
wayoflife said:
yup, looks disengaged to me and, you are correct, bigger spline shafts, something you would need with an ARB cannot be installed if you have sleeves. sorry.
Click to expand...

You're supposed to say "absolutely you can make it work by using part xxxx" not agree and ruin my Monday;)
Staying with 37's so is PR44 the next step you think? My slabs just got in and pretty sure they have a different bolt pattern than PR60. Not sure if I want to spend 8k if I don't need to.
Thx Russ


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wayoflife

wayoflife

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ttfhell said:
You're supposed to say "absolutely you can make it work by using part xxxx" not agree and ruin my Monday;)
Staying with 37's so is PR44 the next step you think? My slabs just got in and pretty sure they have a different bolt pattern than PR60. Not sure if I want to spend 8k if I don't need to.
Thx Russ
Click to expand...

LOL!! Sorry about that and yeah, I would work at getting a PR44. With 37's, it's all that you really need.
 
ttfhell

ttfhell

New member
wayoflife said:
LOL!! Sorry about that and yeah, I would work at getting a PR44. With 37's, it's all that you really need.
Click to expand...

Besides the chromoly shafts, what are the must have options I need? Ball joints for sure. Thicker tubes? I saw they make a 44/60 hybrid of some sort. Locking manual hubs?
Thx


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wayoflife

wayoflife

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Staff member
ttfhell said:
Besides the chromoly shafts, what are the must have options I need? Ball joints for sure. Thicker tubes? I saw they make a 44/60 hybrid of some sort. Locking manual hubs?
Thx


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Click to expand...

You can only get locking hubs with a 44/60 but, for the price, I would just go for the 60 as it's not that much more. If you go with the PR44, I would get the Unlimited version as it comes with 1/2" thick tubes, outboard shock mounts and built in 6° of caster. Chromoly shafts are a must with an ARB. I personally would save your money on things like orange knuckles and use that money to get ProSteer ball joints. I would also recommend that you get a heavy duty tie-rod like the kind the Currie makes.
 
ttfhell

ttfhell

New member
wayoflife said:
You can only get locking hubs with a 44/60 but, for the price, I would just go for the 60 as it's not that much more. If you go with the PR44, I would get the Unlimited version as it comes with 1/2" thick tubes, outboard shock mounts and built in 6° of caster. Chromoly shafts are a must with an ARB. I personally would save your money on things like orange knuckles and use that money to get ProSteer ball joints. I would also recommend that you get a heavy duty tie-rod like the kind the Currie makes.
Click to expand...

Thanks. Maybe a stupid question but if I get a PR44 up front and need to upgrade the rear later I have to go to a 60 which would take a different size wheel than the front right?


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wayoflife

wayoflife

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ttfhell said:
Thanks. Maybe a stupid question but if I get a PR44 up front and need to upgrade the rear later I have to go to a 60 which would take a different size wheel than the front right?


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Click to expand...

While you might be able to get a rear semi-float 60 with a 5x5 bolt patter, you would be better served getting a 5x5.5 or even 8 lug and get new wheels to go with it. Up front, you will be narrow anyway so you can run wheel adapters to convert the bolt patter to the new wheels and give you a more even stance.
 
ttfhell

ttfhell

New member
wayoflife said:
While you might be able to get a rear semi-float 60 with a 5x5 bolt patter, you would be better served getting a 5x5.5 or even 8 lug and get new wheels to go with it. Up front, you will be narrow anyway so you can run wheel adapters to convert the bolt patter to the new wheels and give you a more even stance.
Click to expand...

Sounds like a bargain. Thx for the replies.


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TheDuff

TheDuff

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Feeling a sweet deal on some slabs coming up! I call dibs:D

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ttfhell

ttfhell

New member
TheDuff said:
Feeling a sweet deal on some slabs coming up! I call dibs:D

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Click to expand...

Sorry man;) Keeping those for hopefully a year or two as I don't have 16k to do front and rear but selling the methods.


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jeeeep

jeeeep

Hooked
wayoflife said:
While you might be able to get a rear semi-float 60 with a 5x5 bolt patter, you would be better served getting a 5x5.5 or even 8 lug and get new wheels to go with it. Up front, you will be narrow anyway so you can run wheel adapters to convert the bolt patter to the new wheels and give you a more even stance.
Click to expand...

more what?? I've also been reading and trying to decide which upgrade to go with, so far I have narrowed it down to PR44 Unlmtd but still working on the rest. If I understand, if I upgrade the rear, D60 is the only option? The PR44 is the same width as stock correct? I don't plan to go larger than 37's which is what begin all my searching... too many upgrades :doh:
 
wayoflife

wayoflife

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Staff member
jeeeep said:
more what?? I've also been reading and trying to decide which upgrade to go with, so far I have narrowed it down to PR44 Unlmtd but still working on the rest. If I understand, if I upgrade the rear, D60 is the only option? The PR44 is the same width as stock correct? I don't plan to go larger than 37's which is what begin all my searching... too many upgrades :doh:
Click to expand...

If you get a standard Trail 60, you can get that the same width as a JK axle but, if you go ProRock 60 like you should, it'll be wider. The wheel adapters up front will not only allow you to bolt up wheels with a 5x5.5 bolt pattern, it'll also help to make your front axle width about the same as the rear.
 
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