12' Gecko Build

J

JKDream

Guest
desertrunner said:
My old wheel speed censor worked just fine so my gut feeling was to just use the old one I just didn't know if the old one would work in the new bearing but I haven't tried yet. I was pretty surprised to see the new one was so much shorter. Reading Eddie's write up on the replacement he used the new one and it looks fine but mine looks real short.

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WJCO said:
When you pull the new sensor out of the bearing, just match it up to the old one and make sure they look exactly the same. You should be fine though.
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It's the same sensor - only difference was the cable length. I had to do the same.
Congrats on the PR btw.
 
desertrunner

desertrunner

Active Member
Ok guys I'm back from my 2 week trip to Alaska and trying to get back on the jeep. Still stuck on these stupid wheel speed censors though. So I tried to use the old censor lines but the censor wouldn't fit, turns out the ones I got are different than the stock ones so..... Yeah. The new lines are a full 10" shorter than the stock ones. I did toss the new lines back in there and dropped my axle as far as I could and honestly the line wasn't as tight as I thought it would be, i actually have still a little bit of stretch left at full droop (which is beyond the length of my current shocks and at the limit of my swaybar links. So for the time being they should actually work just fine, but I am worried that the second I throw taller springs and longer shocks in there that they are going to be too short so not sure what I am going to do yet.

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WJCO

WJCO

Meme King
desertrunner said:
Ok guys I'm back from my 2 week trip to Alaska and trying to get back on the jeep. Still stuck on these stupid wheel speed censors though. So I tried to use the old censor lines but the censor wouldn't fit, turns out the ones I got are different than the stock ones so..... Yeah. The new lines are a full 10" shorter than the stock ones. I did toss the new lines back in there and dropped my axle as far as I could and honestly the line wasn't as tight as I thought it would be, i actually have still a little bit of stretch left at full droop (which is beyond the length of my current shocks and at the limit of my swaybar links. So for the time being they should actually work just fine, but I am worried that the second I throw taller springs and longer shocks in there that they are going to be too short so not sure what I am going to do yet.


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I would just cut and splice the line if I were in your shoes. Should be a black wire that you splice with black and then whatever other colors are there, those get spliced together. Each sensor and the vehicle harness should have 2 wires.

If WJ to JK works, I would imagine JK to JK would be even closer.

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desertrunner

desertrunner

Active Member
WJCO said:
I would just cut and splice the line if I were in your shoes. Should be a black wire that you splice with black and then whatever other colors are there, those get spliced together. Each sensor and the vehicle harness should have 2 wires.

If WJ to JK works, I would imagine JK to JK would be even closer.

View attachment 283207
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Yeah that doesn't sound like a bad idea I guess. I'm sure it will work just fine. Although after reading the unit bearing write up again it looks like there is a new part number for 11'+ and I have the old one so that might be why the censors are different. I might as well just return these get the new timkins and then if those are still shorter try the old ones or splice some wire in. Last thing I want to do is cut and splice wire then have the ECU freak out and not accept the censor.

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desertrunner

desertrunner

Active Member
So been buttoning up a few more things while I wait for the new unit bearings to show up. I tossed in a set of 3/4" front spacers I think it will help level it out and look better. I also went to put my tie rod back in and I noticed that there is no tab to bolt on a steering stabilizer.... which I guess would make sense with the fact that it has a hydro assist bracket but I may even end up just cutting that off since its interfering with my drag link.

I guess it really wouldn't be that big of a deal to just not run a steering stabilizer but now I'm wondering if I should get one welded on? Idk any thoughts?

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WJCO

WJCO

Meme King
desertrunner said:
So been buttoning up a few more things while I wait for the new unit bearings to show up. I tossed in a set of 3/4" front spacers I think it will help level it out and look better. I also went to put my tie rod back in and I noticed that there is no tab to bolt on a steering stabilizer.... which I guess would make sense with the fact that it has a hydro assist bracket but I may even end up just cutting that off since its interfering with my drag link.

I guess it really wouldn't be that big of a deal to just not run a steering stabilizer but now I'm wondering if I should get one welded on? Idk any thoughts?

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My PR came with a Clayton TB bracket but same issue as yours. I had to cut the SS tab off. I ended up using another hole on the bracket with a bolt and spacer. Been on almost a year with no issues:

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desertrunner

desertrunner

Active Member
I wonder if I can get creative enough to mount it to the top hole above the track bar bolt. The lower most hole is being used currently for my track bar and there really isn't another hole in the area minus the hydro bracket. Maybe I'll look into using some spacer on that top hole.

View attachment 283392

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desertrunner

desertrunner

Active Member
That actually seems like it might work out pretty well. Don't know how important it is to have the steering stabilizer parallel with the tie rod but it seems to fit.

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JKbrick

JKbrick

Active Member
desertrunner said:
Idk about the made in USA thing but yeah it's for the 07-11. Do You need a set? I already ordered the 482s

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I don’t need them yet but someday I might. The local napa carries Chicago rawhide (?) that are made in USA but are $140 each. I considered changing them when I was going through the whole death wobble thing but the pro steers seemed to fix that


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VeruGE*144

VeruGE*144

Caught the Bug
JKbrick said:
I don’t need them yet but someday I might. The local napa carries Chicago rawhide (?) that are made in USA but are $140 each. I considered changing them when I was going through the whole death wobble thing but the pro steers seemed to fix that


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If you gonna spend $140, why not just get the mopar ones. I just ordered my set today, this website/dealer asks for vin # at checkout to verify fitment. I bought from them before, no complaints [emoji108]
https://www.mymoparparts.com/oem-pa...398ae/?c=aT1XSjA3MjQ1NSZyPWxheWVyXzMmYT1qZWVw


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JKbrick

JKbrick

Active Member
JKbrick

JKbrick

Active Member
It’s at the dealership he works at, he said to just call there and tell them your from the forum. The number is 770-889-8951, he said try to talk to Cliff. It’s for anything FCA and Mopar


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desertrunner

desertrunner

Active Member
When you guys are measuring out bump stop length are you only supposed to cycle the axle with driver high passenger low and vise versa? Or should I be concerned with both driver and passenger at full bump at the same time? When I put both sides up I'm getting a much bigger distance I have to bump stop to stop the raised track bar bracket from hitting the frame and it's really going to take away a bit of up travel on the passenger side. I feel like unless I'm hauling ass in the desert and hit some woops that they will never both be at full bump

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WJCO

WJCO

Meme King
desertrunner said:
When you guys are measuring out bump stop length are you only supposed to cycle the axle with driver high passenger low and vise versa? Or should I be concerned with both driver and passenger at full bump at the same time? When I put both sides up I'm getting a much bigger distance I have to bump stop to stop the raised track bar bracket from hitting the frame and it's really going to take away a bit of up travel on the passenger side. I feel like unless I'm hauling ass in the desert and hit some woops that they will never both be at full bump

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Do it both ways. You'd be surprised how even a little pothole off-road will cause the bracket to hit when your disconnected.
 
desertrunner

desertrunner

Active Member
WJCO said:
Do it both ways. You'd be surprised how even a little pothole off-road will cause the bracket to hit when your disconnected.
Click to expand...
Dang that stinks, with driver at full droop and passenger at full stuff I have like 16" shock length, with the drivers side close to bump and passenger at full bump I'm at 17.25" shock length. So I'll be losing almost 1.5" of up travel on that side. And hell most 4" lift shocks are 17" collapsed if I am going to have to add that much bump anyway why not get a ton of down travel haha.

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