Add-Ons questions

JK_Dave

JK_Dave

Caught the Bug
JKbrick said:
You should put the pinion yokes on with a rotational torque wrench
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It should be clarified that he won't install the new pinion yoke with this thing. He needs a proper torque wrench for that. The wrench pictured simply measures the amount of torque that's on the existing pinion nut in order to determine the amount of torque currently applied to the crush sleeve inside the diff. When he goes to install the new yoke, he'll want to add 5ft-lbs to the new pinion nut so that the crush sleeve is still applying force back against the nut.

But, he should really read or know about this anyway before he installs the new d/s.
 
WJCO

WJCO

Meme King
JK_Dave said:
It should be clarified that he won't install the new pinion yoke with this thing. He needs a proper torque wrench for that. The wrench pictured simply measures the amount of torque that's on the existing pinion nut in order to determine the amount of torque currently applied to the crush sleeve inside the diff. When he goes to install the new yoke, he'll want to add 5ft-lbs to the new pinion nut so that the crush sleeve is still applying force back against the nut.

But, he should really read or know about this anyway before he installs the new d/s.
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Good clarification indeed. Yes, the inch pound wrench is only used to measure the rotational resistance, not the actual torque of the nut.
 
bruggymonster

bruggymonster

Member
JK_Dave said:
It should be clarified that he won't install the new pinion yoke with this thing. He needs a proper torque wrench for that. The wrench pictured simply measures the amount of torque that's on the existing pinion nut in order to determine the amount of torque currently applied to the crush sleeve inside the diff. When he goes to install the new yoke, he'll want to add 5ft-lbs to the new pinion nut so that the crush sleeve is still applying force back against the nut.

But, he should really read or know about this anyway before he installs the new d/s.
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Yup I am ordering a tekton 1/2" 10-150 ft-lb torque wrench. And yeah I've read the online instructions and watched their videos but the only thing they mention you'll need or use is a torque wrench, pry bar, and red loctite.... but I'm sure those are just a necessity and things you guys are mentioning are to make the install go a lot smoother?


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JK_Dave

JK_Dave

Caught the Bug
bruggymonster said:
Yup I am ordering a tekton 1/2" 10-150 ft-lb torque wrench. And yeah I've read the online instructions and watched their videos but the only thing they mention you'll need or use is a torque wrench, pry bar, and red loctite.... but I'm sure those are just a necessity and things you guys are mentioning are to make the install go a lot smoother?


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I suggest you go read post 180 again. I have personally installed my driveshaft and I also screwed it up. In addition to a mechanics tool set, you must have a torque wrench, a rotational torque gauge (like the one mentioned in jkbrick's post), new pinion nuts and red Loctite. You can also get a pinion yoke puller (has 3 "S" shaped arms which tighten down on the yoke while you turn a screw and helps gently pull off the old yoke), but it's not required. Just don't beat on it with a BFH if it doesn't want to come off. That's about it unless you don't have a grease gun to lube the u-joints in the d/s.

Also, there are different write ups out there for how to install a driveshaft. Each one is a little different and goes into different detail about how to install the differential side yoke. Adams has one online and I think I found a write up on another forum too and used both as guides. I'll probably pay to have my next d/s installed and that's coming from someone who enjoys working on his own Jeep.
 
JKbrick

JKbrick

Active Member
JK_Dave said:
It should be clarified that he won't install the new pinion yoke with this thing. He needs a proper torque wrench for that. The wrench pictured simply measures the amount of torque that's on the existing pinion nut in order to determine the amount of torque currently applied to the crush sleeve inside the diff. When he goes to install the new yoke, he'll want to add 5ft-lbs to the new pinion nut so that the crush sleeve is still applying force back against the nut.

But, he should really read or know about this anyway before he installs the new d/s.
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Valid point, I thought the question was what would he need beyond what he may already have but I should have clarified what the application was, my bad


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bruggymonster

bruggymonster

Member
Does anyone have the hi-lift jack for the crawler conceptz body mounted carrier? I was wondering how the fit was and if it would get in the way of my CB antenna. Pictures would be nice!


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dillard09

dillard09

New member
bruggymonster said:
Does anyone have the hi-lift jack for the crawler conceptz body mounted carrier? I was wondering how the fit was and if it would get in the way of my CB antenna. Pictures would be nice!


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I have the hi lift mount but don't have very good pics of it and not at home to get some. But where is your antenna mounted at?
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bruggymonster

bruggymonster

Member
My antenna always hits my Dukakis on my a pillar so I'm considering getting a stubby antenna but I here you lose a lot of frequency when you switch to a stubby. So my question is what is the best brand (thinking rugged ridge or antennax) And how much frequency do I actually lose? I listen to the radio a decent amount so I don't quite wanna compromise all my sound


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jtpedersen

jtpedersen

Caught the Bug
I went with whatever Quadratec was selling for stubby. Probably Rugged Ridge. As for signal attenuation I cannot tell any. I'm sure there is some but I've yet to find it. And, on rare occasion I go through a car wash, the stock one doesn't beat the snot out of the a-pillar anymore.


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Frydaddy

Frydaddy

New member
bruggymonster said:
My antenna always hits my Dukakis on my a pillar so I'm considering getting a stubby antenna but I here you lose a lot of frequency when you switch to a stubby. So my question is what is the best brand (thinking rugged ridge or antennax) And how much frequency do I actually lose? I listen to the radio a decent amount so I don't quite wanna compromise all my sound


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If any of your favorite stations have the slightest bit of static, you will lose it. A short antenna right next to metal will lose any weak signals or those from far away stations. The reviews tell all. [FONT=&quot]http://a.co/b0Nwmhy. If you're ok with this, they do look pretty neat.[/FONT]
 
bruggymonster

bruggymonster

Member
Frydaddy said:
If any of your favorite stations have the slightest bit of static, you will lose it. A short antenna right next to metal will lose any weak signals or those from far away stations. The reviews tell all. [FONT=&quot]http://a.co/b0Nwmhy. If you're ok with this, they do look pretty neat.[/FONT]
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Great info! I'm not necessarily going for looks, more for functionality of not having the antenna hit everything when I go under branches or wash it but yes I'm hoping it will look good at the same time!


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Frydaddy

Frydaddy

New member
bruggymonster said:
Great info! I'm not necessarily going for looks, more for functionality of not having the antenna hit everything when I go under branches or wash it but yes I'm hoping it will look good at the same time!


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I've wanted to get rid of the antenna entirely and try something hidden. This window sticker antenna seems neat, but it has mixed reviews. [FONT=&quot]http://a.co/70g8zaM[/FONT]
 
bruggymonster

bruggymonster

Member
So I just got a quote for install of gears, c-gussets, Evo rock sliders (weld on), and Adams front and rear drive shafts. I'll have all of the parts to install so this is purely for installations cost. The gears will be $750, the c-gussets will be $240, the rock sliders will be $320, and then the driveshafts will be free because he will already be working on the gears.. does this sound reasonable to you? I have a buddy that is pretty decent at welding so I may just have him do it because I don't really want to spend $500+ on welding..


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WJCO

WJCO

Meme King
bruggymonster said:
So I just got a quote for install of gears, c-gussets, Evo rock sliders (weld on), and Adams front and rear drive shafts. I'll have all of the parts to install so this is purely for installations cost. The gears will be $750, the c-gussets will be $240, the rock sliders will be $320, and then the driveshafts will be free because he will already be working on the gears.. does this sound reasonable to you? I have a buddy that is pretty decent at welding so I may just have him do it because I don't really want to spend $500+ on welding..


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That seems high on the welding prices. Gear price is good though.
 
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