So I’ve read most of this thread and have a quick question. RE: Caster; Given 6 degrees of separation on a stock set up with 4.2 + being optimal and 10 degrees of separation on a PR44 Unlimited with 6.0 + being optimal does the inclusion of geometry correction brackets with the PR44 Unlimited result in taking optimum caster back to factory spec of 4.2 +?
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Setting Your Toe-In
Contrary to what you might think, your front wheels do not sit parallel to each other. In fact, if you were to look straight down on them, they would be sitting with the front of your tires pointing ever so slightly inward. This is called a "toe-in" and, on a rear wheel drive vehicle, it is set this way on purpose to help keep your Jeep driving straight and give your tires a more even wear.
Unlike the TJ before, the steering system on a JK does not have the tie-rod connected to the drag link and therefore, the toe-in setting will not be effected with the installation of a lift. Needless to say, an adjustment to your toe will be required. Having said that, if you've installed a new tie-rod or bent your factory one on a rock, this write-up will help you to set it back to where it needs to be.
1. Park on level ground and then with the help of a friend, measure the width between the fronts of your front tires and then compare it to the width of the back of your front tires. It is important to use the exact same measuring point front and back in order to get an accurate reading. If your tires still have a mold seam, this is a good point to measure from. Or, if you have a toe-in alignment tool (can be purchased at Harbor Freight for about $20), that will give you the most accurate measurements.
2. Start up your engine, turn your wheels both ways fully and then straighten your steering wheel. Using a 15mm socket, loosen the nut securing the adjuster clamp on tie rod as shown in this pic.
3. Firmly grab the tie-rod’s knurled adjuster and rotate it a little bit at a time taking measurements along the way. If you're Jeep sees a lot of water, mud or salt, you may find it necessary to spray down the threads with some penetrating oil and use a pair of vicegrips to help turn the adjuster. Ideally, you'll want to have approximately 1/16" of toe-in. You should not exceed 1/8" as anything more than that will be too much and that'll your tires to wear poorly.
4. Once your toe-in has been set, use a 15mm socket to re-tighten the nut securing your Jeep JK Wrangler’s tie-rod clamp. Tighten this nut to 45 ft. lbs. of torque and make sure that the tie-rod does not move while doing this.
Best write up ever!!!
2008 jku on 35's
Metal cloak lift. 3.5" gave me 4.2"
Front end steer smart except metal cloak track bar (will be replacing it with a yeti adjustable track bar).
Yeti track bar relocater.
Red neck ram 1.5 hydro assist.
Problem: Was driving ok then started wondering in the last week or so. Drops into highway shoulders and delays more turning to the left than the right. Not nearly as steady as it was a few weeks ago and even then it was just acceptable.
Question: I had a shop tell me that I need to extend my front wheels with lower and upper control arms (equally) then set the caster.
Does that sound right? I have been in the jeep game for 5 years and I still havent dialed my front end yet....I'm still a noob but learning.
Anybody think that sounds right or complete bs?
I'm getting ready to adjust my caster. Last time i checked it was 4.5 degree angle and i have a 4.2 lift metal cloak which i know folks here call it a medal joke.
2008 jku on 35's
Metal cloak lift. 3.5" gave me 4.2"
Front end steer smart except metal cloak track bar (will be replacing it with a yeti adjustable track bar).
Yeti track bar relocater.
Red neck ram 1.5 hydro assist.
Problem: Was driving ok then started wondering in the last week or so. Drops into highway shoulders and delays more turning to the left than the right. Not nearly as steady as it was a few weeks ago and even then it was just acceptable.
Question: I had a shop tell me that I need to extend my front wheels with lower and upper control arms (equally) then set the caster.
Does that sound right? I have been in the jeep game for 5 years and I still havent dialed my front end yet....I'm still a noob but learning.
Anybody think that sounds right or complete bs?
I'm getting ready to adjust my caster. Last time i checked it was 4.5 degree angle and i have a 4.2 lift metal cloak which i know folks here call it a medal joke.
Ahhhh!!! Learning as I go.Steer Smarts sucks. Your lower control arms position the axle in the wheel wells and then your uppers adjust caster. Your upper need to be the same length as each other. And your lowers need to be the same length as each other. But all four won't be the same length.
It is possible that you can extend the lowers and set your axle position and caster without having to even mess with the uppers at all.
So, I had a 3.5" MC lift put on with some 35/12.5/17 Nitto. Steering has a really scare wandering sensation when driving a highway speed. My lift includes adjustable front upper CA. This was the report I received on the alignment. Anyone have any input on this?
Also, I was trying to get the caster angle on my driveway but I got different numbers.
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Steer Smarts sucks. Your lower control arms position the axle in the wheel wells and then your uppers adjust caster. Your upper need to be the same length as each other. And your lowers need to be the same length as each other. But all four won't be the same length.
It is possible that you can extend the lowers and set your axle position and caster without having to even mess with the uppers at all.
Well, wandering at highway speeds is typically a caster issue but if you've already got 4.5°, you should be fine. If I could guess, you more than likely have a loose component like a drag link tie rod end at the pitman arm or at the knuckle or maybe even a track bar bolt and that's allowing things to shift around. Of course, a loose track bar would give you death wobble so you can probably rule that out.