Cost Differential 40s vs 37s!

Journeyman

Journeyman

New member
Clutch said:
Dang! Thanks for the detail.


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I'm at 20k with no suspension changes! I could have saved some dough by cheating out on some parts (smaller/cheaper compressor) and cheaper wheels I guess. But I wanted to do it right so I went with quality parts.
Shit adds up real quick. By the time you get pr60's that are advertised at 11,900k at the time (12,500 now) there's tax and shipping which puts you nearly another 1k. Unless your lucky to be a resident of a sales tax free state and pick up your axles. Don't forget about labor to install. If you have the right tools and shop to do this it can be done obviously. But remember these axles are massive and heavy as fuck. Definitely not something I would want to take on in a drive way with the jeep on jack stands.


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Benito

Benito

Caught the Bug
Going through this whole process right now
Items needed to adequately run 40s:
Dynatrac hardcore package from Dynatrac $12790
ATX 8lug Beadlocks $1850
Nitto TG 40s $2025
Rear drive shaft $600*
Front Drive shaft $600*

Total $16615+
Drive shafts not certain if I can resize or have to get new


Other stuff I have bought to accommodate 40s but not necessary:
Long arm kit $2500

Edit: pressed send too soon

recouping some cost from selling

ATX 5 lug beadlocks
ProRock 44
Stock Rubicon D44
Old drive shafts*
Partially used 37s

Expecting to recoup $6000

Original cost of running 37s starting off with a JK Rubicon

Nitto TG 37s $1900
ATX 5 lug beadlocks $1800
Evo C gussets $60

After several months and bending the Fron housing

Pr44 $2200
Chromoly axle shafts for all four corners $1000
Regear $1200

Total to run 37s

$8160

I have omitted the cost of a lift as both setups require one
 
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Clutch

Clutch

Caught the Bug
Ddays said:
Sobering, isn't it? :icon_crazy: I was close to pulling the trigger on the PR60 combo but started doing the math and pumped the brakes. 40's are awesome but I'm sticking with 37's.
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Sobering for sure. I love the sport and wrenching from time to time but not sure I have the wherewithal. I guess I'll just be a silent lurker! But who knows maybe I'll catch a deal on day?


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Clutch

Clutch

Caught the Bug
Benito said:
Going through this whole process right now
Items needed to adequately run 40s:
Dynatrac hardcore package from Dynatrac $12790
ATX 8lug Beadlocks $1850
Nitto TG 40s $2025
Rear drive shaft $600
Front Drive shaft $600

Other stuff I have bought to accommodate 40s but not necessary:
Long arm kit $2500
Click to expand...

It will be awesome when it's done though! Really awesome!


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SDG

SDG

Caught the Bug
tgoss said:
SDG said could be up to $35k.... And he's not kidding:

Axles: 14k w/ driveshafts
Wheels: $2.5k
Tires: $2.5k
Long arms: $2.5k
DTD/Evolever: $10k
Hydro Assist: $3k
Labor: $10k

It adds up quick.
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Yuppers.

And as I took the original question what's the diff in price.

You CAN run 37s on stock axles, only expense would be gears and C gussets... with factory lockers, so that I took as the low ball cost being wheels, tires, 1k regear, and gussets.

Then on the big $$$ side you could run a 60/80 tricked out, high steer, hydro, all the bells and whistles and the difference would be in the 30/35k range including install, tax, etc.

Really depends what you want to do, doesn't have to be that much, but def could be.
 
Clutch

Clutch

Caught the Bug
JKDream said:
Pretty good estimate, the cost delta mostly stems from the axles.
Suspension setups can be the same on 40's or 37's.
You guys in the US are lucky lol Those some axle packages are close to 20k with our shit dollar :crazyeyes:
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I think the CAD has just gotten pretty strong to the USD over the last few weeks.


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Judesign

Judesign

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It looks like to get to the same general area of reliability between the two the cost would be substantial (for most of us). For the guys that went to 40s from 37s was it worth it?


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jesse3638

jesse3638

Hooked
Judesign said:
It looks like to get to the same general area of reliability between the two the cost would be substantial (for most of us). For the guys that went to 40s from 37s was it worth it?


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That's the real question. Sure 40's are bad ass but to do it right it costs a lot. Regardless if done right if you wheel with 40's your going to eventually wheel harder and break stuff. That will get expensive too. For most 35-37 are more than enough. I plan to go to 37's when my tires are in need of replacement. My plan is to re-gear (5.13), gusset the front axle, install chro-mo's in the front, and install hydro assist. Then play until something breaks and address it. Sure a PR44 would be nice but why replace whats not broken so I'll get that when it's needed. If I recall, Eddie ran 40's on a PR60 front with a stock rear 44 (5.38) and only replaced it once he blew the RP (Which he knew was going to happen). Additionally, I like to do all the work myself. Installing a LA lift in the garage on Jack stands is a bitch but I would not have done it any other way unless I had access to a lift. So once it comes time to get new axles I'll install them the same way. My opinion is if you do not help with the install you're shorting yourself big time. I learned so much about my jeep doing it so when I have a trail break I now what to do to fix it. Not be that guy who dropped 50-75K at a shop breaks it and had no clue as to what to do. Once again the price goes from 5K to 75K to run 40's. Build it how you want it and plan to use it not because someone tells you to.
 
Clutch

Clutch

Caught the Bug
jesse3638 said:
That's the real question. Sure 40's are bad ass but to do it right it costs a lot. Regardless if done right if you wheel with 40's your going to eventually wheel harder and break stuff. That will get expensive too. For most 35-37 are more than enough. I plan to go to 37's when my tires are in need of replacement. My plan is to re-gear (5.13), gusset the front axle, install chro-mo's in the front, and install hydro assist. Then play until something breaks and address it.
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Are you meaning Truss or c-gusset the front?


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DWiggles

DWiggles

Caught the Bug
jesse3638 said:
That's the real question. Sure 40's are bad ass but to do it right it costs a lot. Regardless if done right if you wheel with 40's your going to eventually wheel harder and break stuff. That will get expensive too. For most 35-37 are more than enough. I plan to go to 37's when my tires are in need of replacement. My plan is to re-gear (5.13), gusset the front axle, install chro-mo's in the front, and install hydro assist. Then play until something breaks and address it. Sure a PR44 would be nice but why replace whats not broken so I'll get that when it's needed. If I recall, Eddie ran 40's on a PR60 front with a stock rear 44 (5.38) and only replaced it once he blew the RP (Which he knew was going to happen). Additionally, I like to do all the work myself. Installing a LA lift in the garage on Jack stands is a bitch but I would not have done it any other way unless I had access to a lift. So once it comes time to get new axles I'll install them the same way. My opinion is if you do not help with the install you're shorting yourself big time. I learned so much about my jeep doing it so when I have a trail break I now what to do to fix it. Not be that guy who dropped 50-75K at a shop breaks it and had no clue as to what to do. Once again the price goes from 5K to 75K to run 40's. Build it how you want it and plan to use it not because someone tells you to.
Click to expand...
Moby was on 40/15.50/r20s and spiderlocks (3.5 B.S.) when running the pr60 and rear factory 44 on 5.38s.
 
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