Covering my bases before I order

desertrunner

Active Member
Ok so I read all the info on dynatracs site again about the different ARBs so if I want to go 35 spline in the pr44 front it's the 147. Which is essentially a combination of the 109 and 117 to accommodate the 35 spline shafts and thick ring gear that the JK has. Now I guess the question is, is the REAR ring gear in the Sport D44 the same thick gear as the front? If so then it should be the 147 for the front and rear to my understanding.

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desertrunner

Active Member
Your best bet is to just buy a complete kit for the rear, locker and shafts and all.
Well I'm wanting to buy the rear revolution shafts since they warranty their flanges and as far as I know they aren't an ARB dealer so I will probably have to buy the locker separate. I am going to have a shop do the rear install so maybe I'll just have them buy all the parts. I just am always skeptical and I want to actually supply the parts so I know what's going in it.

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Exodus 4x4

New member
Well I'm wanting to buy the rear revolution shafts since they warranty their flanges and as far as I know they aren't an ARB dealer so I will probably have to buy the locker separate. I am going to have a shop do the rear install so maybe I'll just have them buy all the parts. I just am always skeptical and I want to actually supply the parts so I know what's going in it.

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You want to know what's going on it but you don't know what to put in it?


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aermotor

Member
Call Revolution up to make sure you get the right ARB. I am reading conflicting data inline. Some say RD147 for the non Rubicon rear and some say RD157.

You want to know what's going on it but you don't know what to put in it?

Setting up gears and lockers is not for the DIY mechanic. Very few people on any boards do it themselves. I think he's right to supply the parts and not get ripped off.
 

desertrunner

Active Member
You want to know what's going on it but you don't know what to put in it?


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Up until a few days ago I was pretty set on just going with dynatracs trail leader package and all the details of which series locker and stuff I wouldnt have to worry about. But now that I'm not going that route I just want to make sure I have all the correct parts. Just because I was unsure which part to put in doesn't mean I don't want to know, which was the point of this thread, to make sure I have the right information and the right parts before I go spend thousands of dollars.

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Benito

Caught the Bug
So after months of making extensive excel sheets and saving I think I have finally come up with the option that is going to work best for me. Just wanted to run it by you guys and make sure I'm not missing anything.

Due to my current and future lift size I am going to go with the standard geometry PR44 with ARB, 4.88, prosteers, 1/2" tubes and just the dynatrac shaft kit (unless there is a better alternative front shaft? I didn't do too much digging on that one)
Last thing to figure out in the front for me is what yoke to order, whether I can use a stock flange for the time being or not.

In the rear I'm going to go with revolution 35 spline shafts (cheaper than dynatracs and I have heard good things about their warranty) revolution 4.88s plus their timken overhaul kit. And a ARB 35 spline locker. Which I believe is the RD109?? might be the RD147 I need to get clarification on that too. I plan on just getting ARBs smallest compressor for the lockers which i believe is the CKSA12 since I already have a power plant to air up tires.

Is there anything obvious I'm missing or something I may be overlooking that I could do better? A little bit more context I am running 4dr springs on 33s currently and plan on in the end running essentially the 3" enforcer but with the 2" plush rides and spacers in the rear on 37s

Well I'm wanting to buy the rear revolution shafts since they warranty their flanges and as far as I know they aren't an ARB dealer so I will probably have to buy the locker separate. I am going to have a shop do the rear install so maybe I'll just have them buy all the parts. I just am always skeptical and I want to actually supply the parts so I know what's going in it.

Why don't you just get the Dynatrac Trail leader package? It comes with a built PR44 minus your knuckles and brakes and with an ARB/gear set/install kit/ axle shafts/diff cover to upgrade the rear sport D44?

https://www.dynatrac.com/axle-assemblies/jeep-jk-wrangler/trail-leader-axle-package.html
 

Exodus 4x4

New member
Setting up gears and lockers is not for the DIY mechanic. Very few people on any boards do it themselves. I think he's right to supply the parts and not get ripped off.

That's not my point. If it's this confusing he needs to find a reputable shop that KNOWS what they're doing instead of searching for all the pieces on the internet. Believe it or not people can make mistakes reading about this shit on internet and thinking they got it all figured out. Then they show up to a shop with a Jeep full of parts wanting them to install them, only to find out:

A) He didn't buy the parts from them so they'll tell him to fuck off anyways.

B) He was mistaken about a part on his Jeep in spite of all his "research" and bough the wrong shit after all.

Buying parts from the guy that installs them isn't necessarily getting ripped off. The shop might make him a better deal on the parts or labor since he's buying them from him.


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desertrunner

Active Member
That's not my point. If it's this confusing he needs to find a reputable shop that KNOWS what they're doing instead of searching for all the pieces on the internet. Believe it or not people can make mistakes reading about this shit on internet and thinking they got it all figured out. Then they show up to a shop with a Jeep full of parts wanting them to install them, only to find out:

A) He didn't buy the parts from them so they'll tell him to fuck off anyways.

B) He was mistaken about a part on his Jeep in spite of all his "research" and bough the wrong shit after all.

Buying parts from the guy that installs them isn't necessarily getting ripped off. The shop might make him a better deal on the parts or labor since he's buying them from him.


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That was actually part of my original problem, finding a reputable shop in Montana wasn't an easy thing and the 2 i got good reccomendations for are a few hours drive from me. I agree with you that if I supply the parts and a shop can't set it up they can charge me for labor and still tell me to fuck off. So me trying to find the info here is a back up so when I call the shop I want to go to and they tell me they are gonna get a ARB 109 I can question them like hey you sure that's right? If that makes sense. I haven't called the shop yet to see of they can get the parts cheaper it is still on my list of things to do before I order because yes if they can get all the parts for the same or cheaper than I can i have no reason to supply the parts I'll just let them buy it.

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desertrunner

Active Member
Why don't you just get the Dynatrac Trail leader package? It comes with a built PR44 minus your knuckles and brakes and with an ARB/gear set/install kit/ axle shafts/diff cover to upgrade the rear sport D44?

https://www.dynatrac.com/axle-assemblies/jeep-jk-wrangler/trail-leader-axle-package.html
I am not going with the trail leader package because it is only offered with the extra caster housing. Being that I am only on 1" of lift right now and don't plan on going over 3" the std housing will set up just fine for my needs. I also wanted to go with revolution rear shafts because they warranty the rear flanges which unless I'm mistaken dynatrac doesn't.

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Exodus 4x4

New member
That was actually part of my original problem, finding a reputable shop in Montana wasn't an easy thing and the 2 i got good reccomendations for are a few hours drive from me. I agree with you that if I supply the parts and a shop can't set it up they can charge me for labor and still tell me to fuck off. So me trying to find the info here is a back up so when I call the shop I want to go to and they tell me they are gonna get a ARB 109 I can question them like hey you sure that's right? If that makes sense. I haven't called the shop yet to see of they can get the parts cheaper it is still on my list of things to do before I order because yes if they can get all the parts for the same or cheaper than I can i have no reason to supply the parts I'll just let them buy it.

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Totally understand it's hard to find in Montana. If it were me, I wouldn't mind driving 2-3 hours to a shop if they came highly recommended. I definitely would not buy all the parts and take them to the closest/cheapest place.


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desertrunner

Active Member
Totally understand it's hard to find in Montana. If it were me, I wouldn't mind driving 2-3 hours to a shop if they came highly recommended. I definitely would not buy all the parts and take them to the closest/cheapest place.


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Yeah that is next on my list to do is call up the 2 shops I have been looking into and ask their price for the parts and install, it would just give me piece of mind to know what parts should be going in there as a double check the shop knows what they are talking about
Totally understand it's hard to find in Montana. If it were me, I wouldn't mind driving 2-3 hours to a shop if they came highly recommended. I definitely would not buy all the parts and take them to the closest/cheapest place.


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desertrunner

Active Member
To be clear I have no intention of just buying the parts and taking it to the cheapest closest shop I'm gonna make the drive to a good shop for the install but on the off chance that their price is higher for parts and labor then me just buying the parts and paying them only labor I want to double and triple check I have the right parts.

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J

JKDream

Guest
I am not going with the trail leader package because it is only offered with the extra caster housing. Being that I am only on 1" of lift right now and don't plan on going over 3" the std housing will set up just fine for my needs. I also wanted to go with revolution rear shafts because they warranty the rear flanges which unless I'm mistaken dynatrac doesn't.

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I've said it before, but I really would stress getting the unlimited housing. I'm on three inches with 37s. The exact set up you want - and I had very poor driving characteristics prior to getting my prorock. There's really no downside to the extra caster.

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desertrunner

Active Member
I've said it before, but I really would stress getting the unlimited housing. I'm on three inches with 37s. The exact set up you want - and I had very poor driving characteristics prior to getting my prorock. There's really no downside to the extra caster.

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I have mulled over that decision for so long and the biggest problem I'm running into is getting it set up on my current set up with 4dr springs and 33s. I see the advantage to getting the extra caster it's just going to cost me so much more money to get it set up right on my current set up. It will essentially force me to go with a minimum of the 2" plush rides right now which means 3" of lift on my 2 Dr which means all 4 front control arms, longer shocks, front drive shaft, possibly brake lines and then I'm driving around a 2dr on a 3" lift and 33s which I think will look stupid. After multiple conversations with dynatrac they said at 3" I will have no issues with the standard housing. On my last 4dr rubi on 37s I had a 3.5" lift with a drag link flip and while I'm sure it could have driven better I really don't think it drove all that awful and my 2dr is not a daily driver. I'm turning a $8000 set up into an $11000 set up and I'm on 3" lift and 33s.... can it be done yes but there are still plenty of other things I want to buy before I jump to all the suspension work and 37s. I want to run my rig on 33s for a while before making that jump, it's just not a great spot to do either

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J

JKDream

Guest
I have mulled over that decision for so long and the biggest problem I'm running into is getting it set up on my current set up with 4dr springs and 33s. I see the advantage to getting the extra caster it's just going to cost me so much more money to get it set up right on my current set up. It will essentially force me to go with a minimum of the 2" plush rides right now which means 3" of lift on my 2 Dr which means all 4 front control arms, longer shocks, front drive shaft, possibly brake lines and then I'm driving around a 2dr on a 3" lift and 33s which I think will look stupid. After multiple conversations with dynatrac they said at 3" I will have no issues with the standard housing. On my last 4dr rubi on 37s I had a 3.5" lift with a drag link flip and while I'm sure it could have driven better I really don't think it drove all that awful and my 2dr is not a daily driver. I'm turning a $8000 set up into an $11000 set up and I'm on 3" lift and 33s.... can it be done yes but there are still plenty of other things I want to buy before I jump to all the suspension work and 37s. I want to run my rig on 33s for a while before making that jump, it's just not a great spot to do either

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I didn't know it wasn't your daily, so the caster might not be that big of a deal.
I use mine for business as well so I tend to need it to track straight on the highway.
Sure is interesting pulling up to a customers with a suit in a JK on 37s for a business meeting lol.
Your calculation is a bit wrong though, you only need one set of control arms to set it up properly. Preferably uppers.
I got by with my stock control arms at first, but then again I've always had my lift.
I'm running my stock driveshafts, I actually found the angles got better because of the additional pinion angle.
The pinion pointing upward actually created more clearance than I had between the exhaust on my stock housing.
I'm still running stock brake lines as well I just removed them from the lower bracket on the spring bucket.
2012+s came with longer factory brake lines. I'm also running 12" travel shocks with a loooot of droop.
At the end of the day it's your Jeep and I think you'll be happy with the PR which ever route you go anyway.
 

JKbrick

Active Member
I didn't know it wasn't your daily, so the caster might not be that big of a deal.
I use mine for business as well so I tend to need it to track straight on the highway.
Sure is interesting pulling up to a customers with a suit in a JK on 37s for a business meeting lol.
Your calculation is a bit wrong though, you only need one set of control arms to set it up properly. Preferably uppers.
I got by with my stock control arms at first, but then again I've always had my lift.
I'm running my stock driveshafts, I actually found the angles got better because of the additional pinion angle.
The pinion pointing upward actually created more clearance than I had between the exhaust on my stock housing.
I'm still running stock brake lines as well I just removed them from the lower bracket on the spring bucket.
2012+s came with longer factory brake lines. I'm also running 12" travel shocks with a loooot of droop.
At the end of the day it's your Jeep and I think you'll be happy with the PR which ever route you go anyway.

I think most people here do lower front control arms for caster


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