Dynatrac swap

1

16jku1231

New member
Are there any other mods that need to be done when swapping out for dynatrac axles on a jku? Getting ready to make my jeep a JEEP! but I'm trying to make sure I have my budget numbers correct and there aren't any hidden costs I don't know about. Thanks!

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16jku1231 said:
Are there any other mods that need to be done when swapping out for dynatrac axles on a jku? Getting ready to make my jeep a JEEP! but I'm trying to make sure I have my budget numbers correct and there aren't any hidden costs I don't know about. Thanks!

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Depends what you are replacing your stock axles with.
A Prorock 44 isn't going to have any hidden costs besides the initial spend for the axle, it's a direct drop in.
A Prorock 60 has some minor details you need to be aware of such as the wheel pattern etc.
 
16jku1231 said:
Are there any other mods that need to be done when swapping out for dynatrac axles on a jku? Getting ready to make my jeep a JEEP! but I'm trying to make sure I have my budget numbers correct and there aren't any hidden costs I don't know about. Thanks!

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If you're getting a PR60,or 80 you will need to get a new drive shaft or if you already have an aftermarket shaft, you will need to have it shortened. If you're getting a complete PR44, you should be able to just bolt it up and go. If you have a Rubicon 44 and are swapping the internals from it, you should actually be out to save quite a bit of money.

JKDream said:
Depends what you are replacing your stock axles with.
A Prorock 44 isn't going to have any hidden costs besides the initial spend for the axle, it's a direct drop in.
A Prorock 60 has some minor details you need to be aware of such as the wheel pattern etc.
Click to expand...

Yup, with 60's, you'll be looking at getting a new set of wheels.
 
JKDream said:
Depends what you are replacing your stock axles with.
A Prorock 44 isn't going to have any hidden costs besides the initial spend for the axle, it's a direct drop in.
A Prorock 60 has some minor details you need to be aware of such as the wheel pattern etc.
Click to expand...
Yes, thank you. I am aware of the wheel pattern and have already gotten that one worked out. Thanks for the heads up though

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If you are getting both axles, and running big tires, might as well have them throw on the ProGrip brake kit. Not required obviously, but a nice mod to add on.
 
wayoflife said:
If you're getting a PR60,or 80 you will need to get a new drive shaft or if you already have an aftermarket shaft, you will need to have it shortened. If you're getting a complete PR44, you should be able to just bolt it up and go. If you have a Rubicon 44 and are swapping the internals from it, you should actually be out to save quite a bit of money.
Click to expand...
Awesome! Thanks for the input. I figured I would need different driveshafts If I went with the 60s.

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tgoss said:
No real reason other than complete overkill to run full float 60's front and rear for 37's.

PR44 front and semifloat 60 rear would be a perfect set up for 37's.
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It is until you bend a flange on your SF PR60 like I did. :icon_crazy:
You can get the new 60/60 package for about the same price I paid for my PR44/PR60 set a year & a half ago :mad:
 
Ddays said:
It is until you bend a flange on your SF PR60 like I did. :icon_crazy:
You can get the new 60/60 package for about the same price I paid for my PR44/PR60 set a year & a half ago :mad:
Click to expand...

Heard that. Spent more on my 44/60 set up than the full float 60 package offered now. Crazy.
 
agiron said:
Don't mean to hi-jack, is it safe to run a pr44 in front and a stock jk44 in rear on 37's


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I have been running that for a year with 8 or so excursions with no problems. Switching to an XD60 rear now but not because of problems with the d44 rear.


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