Evo 3" Enforcer Lift Question JKU

[Zevulin]

While a 1310 will work, the one u-joint that exists on a factory front drive shaft is a 1330. As in, it is STRONGER than a 1310. On a TJ, they are fine but on a JK, I personally would NOT recommend a 1310 and based on experience in seeing them fail. I have NEVER had or seen any of the 1350's I've run rub on trans linkage. Of course, that's just me.

Does the # designation have to do with the size of the shaft?


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[PHX JK]

Yeah its Early in the Game for Me

Id very strongly consider the STTs however an wait the the STT pro Coopers I might have been able to do better than the Nitto Trail Grarapplrer 35 17 70 tire We will and see
the SST's are better
PHX JK

 

[wayoflife]

Does the # designation have to do with the size of the shaft?


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Size of the u-joint. Higher the number, the bigger the joint and yokes that go with them.

 

[PHX JK]

Foo Sure

The Tom Woods Gold Shields scare me but the JE Reel and the Adams make sense to me

 

[Zevulin]

The Tom Woods Gold Shields scare me but the JE Reel and the Adams make sense to me

Copied this from a site selling JE Reel shafts, is all of this true? Does the exhaust heat really melt the boot over time or is it the boot being pinched, or a combination of both? What are we talking about in terms of time before the stock shaft should be changed? Do I need to install exhaust spacers now in the interim?
Thx!
New driveshafts are eventually needed in the JK Wranglers after lifting due to how the exhaust is routed under the driveshaft. Once lifted, the CV boot on the driveshaft moves closer to the exhaust, thus resulting in the CV boot melting causing the grease inside to be thrown out. Once the grease has been thrown out, the u-joint will fail. This is why it is important to install a y-pipe or exhaust spacers when lifting to move the exhaust from under the driveshaft.


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[wayoflife]

Copied this from a site selling JE Reel shafts, is all of this true? Does the exhaust heat really melt the boot over time or is it the boot being pinched, or a combination of both? What are we talking about in terms of time before the stock shaft should be changed? Do I need to install exhaust spacers now in the interim?
Thx!
New driveshafts are eventually needed in the JK Wranglers after lifting due to how the exhaust is routed under the driveshaft. Once lifted, the CV boot on the driveshaft moves closer to the exhaust, thus resulting in the CV boot melting causing the grease inside to be thrown out. Once the grease has been thrown out, the u-joint will fail. This is why it is important to install a y-pipe or exhaust spacers when lifting to move the exhaust from under the driveshaft.


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The heat of the exhaust "can" melt the slip shaft boot on a factory drive shaft BUT that isn't the real problem you need to be concerned with. IF you run shocks that are too long, the slip shaft boot will come into contact with the exhaust cross over and that is what will tear it. The pinched boot I was referring to is the rzeppa CV boot at the output shaft. With a 3" lift or more, your drive shaft will sit at an angle that is steep enough to cause that boot to be in a constant state of pinch. Sooner than later, this boot WILL fail because of it.

 

[Zevulin]

The heat of the exhaust "can" melt the slip shaft boot on a factory drive shaft BUT that isn't the real problem you need to be concerned with. IF you run shocks that are too long, the slip shaft boot will come into contact with the exhaust cross over and that is what will tear it. The pinched boot I was referring to is the rzeppa CV boot at the output shaft. With a 3" lift or more, your drive shaft will sit at an angle that is steep enough to cause that boot to be in a constant state of pinch. Sooner than later, this boot WILL fail because of it.

So installing let's say a JE Reel 1350 front shaft will take care of all these potential problems? Does the JE Reel not use a slip shaft or CV boot? I'd like to do this job correct from the beginning!
Thx


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[wayoflife]

So installing let's say a JE Reel 1350 front shaft will take care of all these potential problems? Does the JE Reel not use a slip shaft or CV boot? I'd like to do this job correct from the beginning!
Thx

An aftermarket u-joint style drive shaft like a JE Reel 1350 will have a shaft diameter that is narrower than the massive factory one. They can do this because unlike the factory shaft of which are made with thin wall steel, aftermarket ones will use considerably thicker steel tubes. While they do still have a slip, they do not need a boot as they use splined ends.

 

[Zevulin]

Evo 3" Enforcer Lift Question JKU

An aftermarket u-joint style drive shaft like a JE Reel 1350 will have a shaft diameter that is narrower than the massive factory one. They can do this because unlike the factory shaft of which are made with thin wall steel, aftermarket ones will use considerably thicker steel tubes. While they do still have a slip, they do not need a boot as they use splined ends.

Definitely going to put in a new shaft first, do it right initially. Question, one of the previous posters spoke about 1350's rubbing on the trans linkage, what's that about?
Thx for all the info!


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[PHX JK]

The guy who owns the nearby Jeep shop told me that. The place has modified Jks all over the place so I took his word on it. The are doing my Welding today


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[Sharkey]

The guy who owns the nearby Jeep shop told me that. The place has modified Jks all over the place so I took his word on it. The are doing my Welding today


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Does he have any pics he is willing to share?

 

[SDG]

Definitely going to put in a new shaft first, do it right initially. Question, one of the previous posters spoke about 1350's rubbing on the trans linkage, what's that about?
Thx for all the info!


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I had a je reel 1350 and it didnt rub with factory axles. Had a lift that yielded about 3.5 to 4" if I recall. Granted my axles have always been centered under the jeep lol.

My work was done by ORE, and i have heard they had done this a few times (maybe even hundreds lol)...

 

[wayoflife]

I had a je reel 1350 and it didnt rub with factory axles. Had a lift that yielded about 3.5 to 4" if I recall. Granted my axles have always been centered under the jeep lol.

Well, clearly you didn't have your Jeep worked on by a shop that has modified JK's all over the place. :crazyeyes:

 

[SDG]

Well, clearly you didn't have your Jeep worked on by a shop that has modified JK's all over the place. :crazyeyes:

Haha, yeah just used some local guys...

 

[Zevulin]

Evo 3" Enforcer Lift Question JKU

Can someone explain to me why a JE rear CV shaft requires the pinion angle to be inline with the shaft angle versus a conventional two joint shaft?

 

[wayoflife]

Can someone explain to me why a JE rear CV shaft requires the pinion angle to be inline with the shaft angle versus a conventional two joint shaft?

Please look at the diagram closely and you will see that the CV shaft (lower one) has a DOUBLE CARDAN at the transfer case - as in, it has 2 u-joints there and a 3rd joint at the axle. This setup requires you to set your pinion IN LINE with your drive shaft. This is necessary to prevent drive line vibrations. As the diagram also states, a conventional shaft, one that only had 1 u-joint on both ends requires you to have BOTH the output shaft AND pinion in line with each other.

 

[Zevulin]

Please look at the diagram closely and you will see that the CV shaft (lower one) has a DOUBLE CARDAN at the transfer case - as in, it has 2 u-joints there and a 3rd joint at the axle. This setup requires you to set your pinion IN LINE with your drive shaft. This is necessary to prevent drive line vibrations. As the diagram also states, a conventional shaft, one that only had 1 u-joint on both ends requires you to have BOTH the output shaft AND pinion in line with each other.

Then why with a double cardan front shaft this isn't the case? Is it related to caster settings?


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[wayoflife]

Then why with a double cardan front shaft this isn't the case? Is it related to caster settings?

Actually, in an ideal world, you'd want your front drive shaft to be in like with your drive shaft too. If you could do that, you could all but ensure that you won't have drive line vibrations. Unfortunately, caster needs to take precedence up front and so you have to make a compromise. This is why it is important to keep your caster set at a shallow 4° especially with an aftermarket drive shaft. Anything more than that feels great but you will get drive line vibrations if you're running a high gear ratio and/or if your drive shaft is even slightly off balance.

 

[PHX JK]

Actually, in an ideal world, you'd want your front drive shaft to be in like with your drive shaft too. If you could do that, you could all but ensure that you won't have drive line vibrations. Unfortunately, caster needs to take precedence up front and so you have to make a compromise. This is why it is important to keep your caster set at a shallow 4° especially with an aftermarket drive shaft. Anything more than that feels great but you will get drive line vibrations if you're running a high gear ratio and/or if your drive shaft is even slightly off balance.

Agreed, I just got my welding done today. I turned out good. I took my Rubicon out on the Highway and at about 75 mph i start to feel the drive shaft vibration. My caster is at 4.7 Im gonna dial it down to 4.4 and see if it makes a difference.

The Enforcer rides like a dream, the handling is also very good for a 4in lift
PHX

 

[Zevulin]

Evo 3" Enforcer Lift Question JKU

Agreed, I just got my welding done today. I turned out good. I took my Rubicon out on the Highway and at about 75 mph i start to feel the drive shaft vibration. My caster is at 4.7 Im gonna dial it down to 4.4 and see if it makes a difference.

The Enforcer rides like a dream, the handling is also very good for a 4in lift
PHX

After you make the change can you please provide an update, I'll be installing the Enforcer 3" lift. Was your caster at 4 pre-installation and ended up at 4.7 with no adjustments? Did you install a new front shaft?


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