EVO Enforcer lower control arms install question

[rubiDave]

I have the same upper and lower measurements top and bottom as you.

This is what mine looks like. View attachment 339864 View attachment 339865

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Look like you might be hitting too.

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[TrailHunter]

Yeah I'm running RS999331 in front too on a 3 inch stage 3. Springs still tight at full droop. RS999330 rear with EVO rockstars.

I don't know if the control arms hit the axle side bracket. Will check.

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WTH? Now I’m questioning my fronts.. lol.. good to know on the rear.. I gotta install my Rockstars.

 

[MericaMade]

Look like you might be hitting too. View attachment 339891

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Good eyes. I have the front end on jacks now. I will take a closer look. Good looking out.

 

[paul_arc]

I talked to EVO and asked if they can give me a recommended length on the shocks for the lift kit. They said they don't have that info but they can give me their recommended shocks.

They recommended Front EVO-600023K
Rear EVO- 600026K

They are King shocks, so after talking to King they gave me the measurements of those shocks-
Front EVO600023K Compressed 17.08", Extended 27.27
Rear EVO600026K Compressed 17.45, Extended 28.14"

The Front Rancho RS999331 I have are Compressed 16.6", Extended 27.32.
The rears Rancho RS999330 I have are compressed 16.11, Extended 26.01.

I got the rears a little shorter because of the EVO rockstars I will be installing.

It looks like the front Ranchos should work.

 

[TrailHunter]

^^^ good info. [emoji1417] I’ll try the 331 up front next time.. I guess my only benefit with the shorter front shocks is wear on the drive shaft joints... which if you haven’t already, will need a new front driveshaft.

 

[-AINOKEA-]

Had to do front end work today anyway. Here’s some pics at full droop. Springs are still solid.






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[OverlanderJK]

I talked to EVO and asked if they can give me a recommended length on the shocks for the lift kit. They said they don't have that info but they can give me their recommended shocks.

They recommended Front EVO-600023K
Rear EVO- 600026K

They are King shocks, so after talking to King they gave me the measurements of those shocks-
Front EVO600023K Compressed 17.08", Extended 27.27
Rear EVO600026K Compressed 17.45, Extended 28.14"

The Front Rancho RS999331 I have are Compressed 16.6", Extended 27.32.
The rears Rancho RS999330 I have are compressed 16.11, Extended 26.01.

I got the rears a little shorter because of the EVO rockstars I will be installing.

It looks like the front Ranchos should work.

If you don’t have all your suspension components installed and in place you are literally doing nothing with all this work. Full droop is not measured with nothing hooked up.


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[rubiDave]

I have a similar setup. I hadn't noticed before but looks like I've got contact marks on the adjuster nut. The LCA bracket have flared a bit from repeated impacts. I can't say whether its limiting down travel at all any more. I will check it out next time it's up on jackstands or when it's time for a lube . Seems like a quick hit with angle grinder on the LCA bracket would eliminate any issue.

Hey all,

I am installing my EVO Enforcer 3" stage 3 suspension kit.
The problem I am having is that on the front lower control arm, the adjustment sleeve is hitting the control arm mount on the axle side before the shocks get to fully extended.
The adjustment sleeve is turned out 2.5 times, which is 1/4" gap between the end of the control arm tube and the hex nut on the adjustment sleeve.
The Johnny joint has 5/8" of threads showing.

The front shocks I have are the Rancho 9000XL RS999331
Extended length of the shocks are 27.32".

The adjustment sleeve hits the control arm mount at around 26.5" of extension.

What would be the correct thing to do?
- Turn in the adjustment sleeve and extend the Johnny joint so it doesn't hit.
- Trim the control arm mount so the adjustment sleeve hex nut doesn't hit.
- Something else?


View attachment 339825

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[rubiDave]

Photo added.

I have a similar setup. I hadn't noticed before but looks like I've got contact marks on the adjuster nut. The LCA bracket have flared a bit from repeated impacts. I can't say whether its limiting down travel at all any more. I will check it out next time it's up on jackstands or when it's time for a lube . Seems like a quick hit with angle grinder on the LCA bracket would eliminate any issue.

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[paul_arc]

^^^ good info. [emoji1417] I’ll try the 331 up front next time.. I guess my only benefit with the shorter front shocks is wear on the drive shaft joints... which if you haven’t already, will need a new front driveshaft.

I have an adams driveshaft in my pile of parts ready to be installed.

If you don’t have all your suspension components installed and in place you are literally doing nothing with all this work. Full droop is not measured with nothing hooked up.


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Your shocks are your limits as far as the axle is going to drop. If your shocks aren't installed then you can just use a tape measure on the mounts that your shocks bolt to. Drop axle down to your shock full extension and that is your full droop.

I have a similar setup. I hadn't noticed before but looks like I've got contact marks on the adjuster nut. The LCA bracket have flared a bit from repeated impacts. I can't say whether its limiting down travel at all any more. I will check it out next time it's up on jackstands or when it's time for a lube . Seems like a quick hit with angle grinder on the LCA bracket would eliminate any issue.

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That might be what I end up doing. Just a little trimming and everything should be good.

 

[fiend]

Your shocks are your limits as far as the axle is going to drop. If your shocks aren't installed then you can just use a tape measure on the mounts that your shocks bolt to. Drop axle down to your shock full extension and that is your full droop.

I don’t know about assembling everything to test droop, but you should connect the shocks, drive shaft, and the track bar. Obviously the control arms as well.

I had the issue you describe with my ProRock 44. After testing droop etc. I clearanced the control arms mounts with grinder. All is well now.



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[fiend]

See above for post

 

[RESURECTIONJK]

.

Your shocks are your limits as far as the axle is going to drop. If your shocks aren't installed then you can just use a tape measure on the mounts that your shocks bolt to. Drop axle down to your shock full extension and that is your full droop.

This simply isn’t the case. Your shocks will typically have more travel than what you will be able to actually achieve once your track bar and the rest of the components are bolted in. Yes... full droop is measured with your shocks bolted in AND nothing else. Once you bolt in the track bar and the rest of the parts, you WILL lose some droop so it’s not an accurate measure on how much clearance you will have.

As stated many times over... install everything and then cycle to check clearance. But seeing as how we’re going on day 3 of this circle jerk, you either aren’t going to listen to the advice we’ve all given and you don’t give a fuck. Or you’re just here to waste our time.

 

[A.J.]

This simply isn’t the case. Your shocks will typically have more travel than what you will be able to actually achieve once your track bar and the rest of the components are bolted in. Yes... full droop is measured with your shocks bolted in AND nothing else. Once you bolt in the track bar and the rest of the parts, you WILL lose some droop so it’s not an accurate measure on how much clearance you will have.

As stated many times over... install everything and then cycle to check clearance. But seeing as how we’re going on day 3 of this circle jerk, you either aren’t going to listen to the advice we’ve all given and you don’t give a fuck. Or you’re just here to waste our time.

? That makes no sense. Shocks are the limiting factor for droop they do not have more travel unless something else is stopping the axle from dropping.

OP you want the longest shocks you can get that don’t bottom out before the bump stops. So ideally you would bolt on all your suspension components except springs and then raise the axle until it is on the bump stops to metal. (take out the yellow pads) That will be your collapsed length. Subtract 1/2” for a safety margin. Extended length is what it is after that. It will vary some due to the internal design of the various shocks.




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[RESURECTIONJK]

? That makes no sense. Shocks are the limiting factor for droop they do not have more travel unless something else is stopping the axle from dropping.

OP you want the longest shocks you can get that don’t bottom out before the bump stops. So ideally you would bolt on all your suspension components except springs and then raise the axle until it is on the bump stops to metal. (take out the yellow pads) That will be your collapsed length. Subtract 1/2” for a safety margin. Extended length is what it is after that. It will vary some due to the internal design of the various shocks.




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Yes shocks are the limiting factory. But so are things like track bar and drivelines. My whole point was that if he’s only got his shocks bolted on and nothing else then he’s not accounting for the other limiting factors like the track bar.

If you were to disconnect a track bar from the axle in most instances, the shocks will usually have a bit more to go before they run out of travel. Might only be 1/2” but that’s determined by how much travel the shock actually has.

For example, I run a shock that has around 12.3” of travel in the front. But I don’t get full use of that because my track bar is also a limiting factor in how my the axle will drop.

So by just measuring the extended length of the shock and then lowering the axle to that length without bolting anything up, he’s doing himself no favors until everything else is connected.

 

[paul_arc]

Yes shocks are the limiting factory. But so are things like track bar and drivelines. My whole point was that if he’s only got his shocks bolted on and nothing else then he’s not accounting for the other limiting factors like the track bar.

If you were to disconnect a track bar from the axle in most instances, the shocks will usually have a bit more to go before they run out of travel. Might only be 1/2” but that’s determined by how much travel the shock actually has.

For example, I run a shock that has around 12.3” of travel in the front. But I don’t get full use of that because my track bar is also a limiting factor in how my the axle will drop.

So by just measuring the extended length of the shock and then lowering the axle to that length without bolting anything up, he’s doing himself no favors until everything else is connected.

Your track bar should not be limiting your droop before your shocks do. Yes, if you take your shocks off then eventually your track bar will bind and limit it but that should be well past the length of your shocks.
If your track bar is limiting your axle droop before your shocks are fully extended then you either have some binding going on because the proper precautions weren't taken when installing your suspension or your shocks are too long. Either way, it sounds like you have a problem that should be corrected.

For my install, I like to verify that everything is working correctly and free without contact/ binding as I move forward in the install. Do it correctly the first time so you don't need to go back and fix problems.

 

[bouche03]

Had to do front end work today anyway. Here’s some pics at full droop. Springs are still solid.

View attachment 339896
View attachment 339897
View attachment 339898


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I can't tell from your picture-Have you cycled the front with one side compressed and the other side drooped? The drooping axle will travel down further than having both sides drooped down together...if so did the coils stay in with the 331 shocks up front?

 

[-AINOKEA-]

I can't tell from your picture-Have you cycled the front with one side compressed and the other side drooped? The drooping axle will travel down further than having both sides drooped down together...if so did the coils stay in with the 331 shocks up front?

No haven’t done that specifically to check. I have a steep hill on my street. When the rain stops I’ll disco the sway bar and flex it out to see if you want.


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[rubiDave]

I've tried that. Running RS999331 and the 3" plush ride spring still holds with one side compressed and the other drooped. You really need to disconnect the shock or use a spring compressor to be able to pull the coil.

I can't tell from your picture-Have you cycled the front with one side compressed and the other side drooped? The drooping axle will travel down further than having both sides drooped down together...if so did the coils stay in with the 331 shocks up front?

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[RockinAZJK]

Your track bar should not be limiting your droop before your shocks do. Yes, if you take your shocks off then eventually your track bar will bind and limit it but that should be well past the length of your shocks.
If your track bar is limiting your axle droop before your shocks are fully extended then you either have some binding going on because the proper precautions weren't taken when installing your suspension or your shocks are too long. Either way, it sounds like you have a problem that should be corrected.

For my install, I like to verify that everything is working correctly and free without contact/ binding as I move forward in the install. Do it correctly the first time so you don't need to go back and fix problems.

If you want to get technical, your shock should NOT be the limiting factor on down travel. You want shocks that are longer than suspension travel and then you’d want limiting straps as to not put too much stress on binding components or shocks when your suspension travels out.


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