EVO LCA spanner nuts?

[wayoflife]

That's what I was afraid of. Is it ok to not have both side CA's set identical as far as the lengths? I'm showing about 3-4 deg. more caster on the passenger side than the drivers side. The lower control arm bracket on the passenger is pretty beat and I'm guessing may have something to do with the caster settings being off, but I'm not sure yet.

You do NOT want to purposefully set your control arm to different lengths in the hopes of correcting caster on a SOLID front axle. If you missed it, the key word here is SOLID. The most you will do is put unwanted stress on your brackets and arms and will cause your joints to fail prematurely. In some cases, I have seen mounts get torn off and suspect that a couple of axle housings I've seen break were the result of this as well. Your caster being slightly off from one side to the other is COMPLETLY NORMAL.

 

[Hammmerhead]

You do NOT want to purposefully set your control arm to different lengths in the hopes of correcting caster on a SOLID front axle. If you missed it, the key word here is SOLID. The most you will do is put unwanted stress on your brackets and arms and will cause your joints to fail prematurely. In some cases, I have seen mounts get torn off and suspect that a couple of axle housings I've seen break were the result of this as well. Your caster being slightly off from one side to the other is COMPLETLY NORMAL.

Thanks for info. This all started with the passenger side JK lean which was pretty bad. A little negative camber from the passenger front wheel made it look worse. Getting the factory balljoints out and adding Synergys didn't fix it, so I preloaded the passenger 1/2" more than the driver side which helped some, but not all. I also bumped the rear passenger side up an additional 1/4", but need to add more as it still sags a bit to the passenger side too. Is this unusual for a JK with the lean to need this much additional preload to level it out?

After all this, that's when I started looking at caster angles.

 

[Tylersilverjku]

You do NOT want to purposefully set your control arm to different lengths in the hopes of correcting caster on a SOLID front axle. If you missed it, the key word here is SOLID. The most you will do is put unwanted stress on your brackets and arms and will cause your joints to fail prematurely. In some cases, I have seen mounts get torn off and suspect that a couple of axle housings I've seen break were the result of this as well. Your caster being slightly off from one side to the other is COMPLETLY NORMAL.

What would you say is normal to be off then? I'm going to pull the trigger on some EVOLCAS and it would be my first time installing and making sure they are at length what is generally the difference is suppose to be? Thanks [emoji106]

 

[piginajeep]

What would you say is normal to be off then? I'm going to pull the trigger on some EVOLCAS and it would be my first time installing and making sure they are at length what is generally the difference is suppose to be? Thanks [emoji106]

They should match length side to side

 

[Tylersilverjku]

They should match length side to side

What about the caster?

 

[DWiggles]

What about the caster?

you do not have uppers to adjust the caster anyway? just lowers to position. so just "Position" the axle until your caster is correct... what is the issue with that? :thinking: Of course one side will have slightly different caster then the other. Its called GD&T for mass production, not to mention its welded together..it's completely normal. :thumb:

 

[wayoflife]

Thanks for info. This all started with the passenger side JK lean which was pretty bad. A little negative camber from the passenger front wheel made it look worse. Getting the factory balljoints out and adding Synergys didn't fix it, so I preloaded the passenger 1/2" more than the driver side which helped some, but not all. I also bumped the rear passenger side up an additional 1/4", but need to add more as it still sags a bit to the passenger side too. Is this unusual for a JK with the lean to need this much additional preload to level it out?

After all this, that's when I started looking at caster angles

A passenger side lean on a JK is totally normal and can look especially pronounced with a lift installed. If it wasn't always as bad as it is now, you might have a coil that has been over compressed and that's typically something that happens when you don't run the correct size bump stop extension.

What would you say is normal to be off then?[emoji106]

0.5-1° off is pretty normal.

 

[Hammmerhead]

Anyone having to preload their coil overs on one side to compensate for the JK lean? If so, how much additional preload? Im thinking I may need a full inch difference from passenger to drivers side.

 

[Hammmerhead]

duplicate NM

 

[wayoflife]

Anyone having to preload their coil overs on one side to compensate for the JK lean? If so, how much additional preload? Im thinking I may need a full inch difference from passenger to drivers side. Is this abnormal?

Yes. Most people do. This is totally normal with coil overs. You can also install a set of adjustable sway bar links and purposefully set them at different lengths to help out as well.

 

[Hammmerhead]

Yes. Most people do. This is totally normal with coil overs. You can also install a set of adjustable sway bar links and purposefully set them at different lengths to help out as well.

:beer: Thank you. It sure is nice have folks around here that know what the heck is going on.

Cheers WOL

 

[piginajeep]

Yes. Most people do. This is totally normal with coil overs. You can also install a set of adjustable sway bar links and purposefully set them at different lengths to help out as well.

That's the big advantage to coilovers. With coils you are stuck with the lean

 

[Tree Frog]

While running the 2.5 AEV lift I never noticed the lean. After going to coil overs the lean was terrible. I researched it as much as I could and found that indeed there was such a thing as "The JK Lean"

I could not stand it. Talk about OCD, it drove me freaking nuts. I had between 3/4 and 7/8 of an inch. Obtained a very level floor and jounced the hell out of it. performed all kinds of measurements, with full tank, with empty tank, 1/2 full.
I tried to preload the coil overs to account for the lean and all it seemed to do is just make the Jeep sit higher. I determined a lot of it was due to the sway bars transferring the load over to the other side.
Bought heavier coils, swapped coil overs side to side, loosened all bolts on CA's and retorqued. Basically went nut's trying to get rid of the lean

So some place on here I read a post by Overlander and he mentioned making the sway bar end links shorter on the drivers side.
That was it! Worked like a charm. Took 7/8 off the drivers side and it worked perfect. I am now able to run the coil overs backed off as far as you dare go. (All the way out on the rear and 3/4 preload on the front, or you risk unseating the coils)

Sits as flat as could be. Fuel load has little effect on lean. It is only about 150 lbs worth of fuel filled up. Just move your recovery gear over to the drivers side.

Thanks Overlander! :beer:

 

[utiadam]

While running the 2.5 AEV lift I never noticed the lean. After going to coil overs the lean was terrible. I researched it as much as I could and found that indeed there was such a thing as "The JK Lean"

I could not stand it. Talk about OCD, it drove me freaking nuts. I had between 3/4 and 7/8 of an inch. Obtained a very level floor and jounced the hell out of it. performed all kinds of measurements, with full tank, with empty tank, 1/2 full.
I tried to preload the coil overs to account for the lean and all it seemed to do is just make the Jeep sit higher. I determined a lot of it was due to the sway bars transferring the load over to the other side.
Bought heavier coils, swapped coil overs side to side, loosened all bolts on CA's and retorqued. Basically went nut's trying to get rid of the lean

So some place on here I read a post by Overlander and he mentioned making the sway bar end links shorter on the drivers side.
That was it! Worked like a charm. Took 7/8 off the drivers side and it worked perfect. I am now able to run the coil overs backed off as far as you dare go. (All the way out on the rear and 3/4 preload on the front, or you risk unseating the coils)

Sits as flat as could be. Fuel load has little effect on lean. It is only about 150 lbs worth of fuel filled up. Just move your recovery gear over to the drivers side.

Thanks Overlander! :beer:

I haven't tried that before. My rear links are equal length right now but they are adjustable. I do have the right side preload more than left rear.

 

[utiadam]

you might have a coil that has been over compressed and that's typically something that happens when you don't run the correct size bump stop extension.

This is very likely. I believe i ruined my first set of king springs due to this. I had the correct bump stop extensions but set the timing rings wrong for the agm sliders which caused the springs to go coil bind.

 

[jeeeep]

I have these on my LCA's and was wondering if anyone has any tricks or which wrench worked the best to break them loose?

i bought something similar to this, I can't find the one I bought but it's narrower than a standard pipe wrench and the quick release gets a good bite