Randy Tadevich
New member
I'm with coop.... this was my first thought, go with the Dynatrac ball joints.
Sent from my LGLS740 using WAYALIFE mobile app
Finally buying my Prorock44
- Thread starter jorgelrod
- Start date
Sent from my LGLS740 using WAYALIFE mobile app
Jackal01
New member
Why's that?
cozdude
Guy with a Red 2-Door
They tightened my steering up and my Jeep just feels more stable in a way compared to the synergy and crown ball joints I used before
Ddays
Hooked
They're rebuildable too :thumb:
WJCO
Meme King
^^^Agreed on both.
If you're running a hi steer setup, make sure and get the raised track bar bracket.
jorgelrod
Hooked
I'm wasnt thinking about a high steer setup at all, was thinking of running my regular setup, might change to the prosteers though
Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
jorgelrod
Hooked
I'm running 2.5 inches of lift, would the high steer be a problem? At that height I mean...
Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
WJCO
Meme King
At that height, you should be find with the standard setup, but make sure you cycle your axle really well after the install as noted here: http://www.dynatrac.com/downloads/ProRock FAQ_revK.pdf to ensure that large rib on the ProRock housing doesn't hit your oil pan. May not be anything you have to deal with, but just bringing it up.
cozdude
Guy with a Red 2-Door
I would not do a high steer set up. It isn't worth it. It only moves the tie rod about 1/2" up. Just still with the oem knuckles.
Now if your referring to the drag link flip you prob wouldn't notice any benefits from it with being so low. You want to be above 3" for you to notice any benefits. Also you need to run about 3" of bump stop on the passenger side so the drag link doesn't contact the frame
Oscar E
New member
Congrats, that's my goal tours end of year. I don't know if 44 or go with the 60 since I just put 37" on.
Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
jorgelrod
Hooked
My kit brought the bumpstops extenders, but I'll keep it in mind
Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
Jackal01
New member
I know that. Didn't think the sense of steering would have been impacted that much. Perhaps I am wrong. Regardless, they have always been on the build sheet for my front end.
J
JKDream
Guest
Yes/No.
If you buy the replacement rubicon housing, it will come pre-drilled for the locker actuator that sits on top of the differential.
It does not come with any additional wiring, you re-use the factory harness that is attached to the locker/jeep.
WJCO
Meme King
The link that I posted above http://www.dynatrac.com/downloads/ProRock FAQ_revK.pdf will answer as well. You can get an empty housing for an elocker or you can have them put an elocker in and have them do the gear work. You can also get their other housing which is setup for a conventional locker and with that housing you can also get it empty or with a locker and gears installed.
aermotor
Member
Cool thanks I will check out that PDF. I currently have a Rubicon D44 front and plan to swap everything into a PR44, I figured it would work the same, was just confirming. Looks like I need the Mopar harness, sort of odd they left out the indicator light wiring though, is there one you can get so it will show as stock does in the dash?
Last edited:
J
JKDream
Guest
Do you have a Rubicon or did you buy a Rubicon takeoff axle?
If you have a Rubicon, you don't need to buy any harnesses, they're already installed.
